When you plug the Parallel port in you should get a very faint light in the power LED, and when you plug the USB in it should go full brightness. Let me know if that DOESN'T happen, because then it is a board problem.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
The arduino IDE is really just a shell program that combines a compiler and a flashy GUI for AVRDUDE. avrdude does the heavy lifting, and if you are having problems with loading you can eliminate a level of troubleshooting by going straight to AVRDUDE's command line. You should have a folder called avrdude in the arduino folder.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
At least we've made some progress, as at least you are getting info from the chip.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Try setting the fuses first: avrdude -B 8 -p atmega644P -C (path to avrdude config) -c dapa -P lpt1 -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xDC:m -U efuse:w:0xFD:mby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
What command are you using? something like this 'C:/avrdude/avrdude' -C 'C:/avrdude/avrdude.conf' -c dapa -p atmega644p -P lpt1 -U flash:wanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex You can use -b to set the rate, make sure it matches your COM settings in device manager make sure boards.txt has this: sanguino.upload.protocol=stk500 to sanguino.upload.protocol=arduino under configuratioby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Capacitors would help with voltage drops. Is this at a low speed, or are you just trying to push as much power in as possible? Your second chip might work now that it is cooled down. I recommend you get a tray of ice and a small fan, so you are blowing cool air over the chips. Also, did you apply all of the 35V 2Amp to one chip, or was it distributed amongst the 4/5 motors?by marnargulus - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
One a day deal, was for yesterday.by marnargulus - Controllers
Reclarify: Mega is ISP not recieving bootloader. 644P is blank.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
I don't have any photos right now, I can take a picture of my board when I get off work. You don't even technically need the resistors, as they just protect the computer port from getting overloaded. But you can go to a radio shack, get the parallel port plug (DB25 I think?), and just wire directly to the pins. Then you plug it into the computer, and the wires run to the ISP on the board. Wheby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
I'd really like you to try without all the LED's and such, with the 5V and GRN there are only 4 wires you need to run. If it doesn't work with that the chip is screwy. Oh and try stripping the P. ie: 644p -> 644 sanguino.bootloader.file=ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex -> sanguino.bootloader.file=ATmegaBOOT_644.hex sanguino.build.mcu=atmega644p -> sanguino.build.mcu=atmega644 I'm sorry I'm not asby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
I bit-banged mine with -18 arduino and sanguino, using a parallel port wired directly to the ISP ports on my board. I supplied usb power to the board. I think that 22 is not playing well with sanguino. Since I'm running Ubuntu, I can't be a great source of troubleshooting your system. I know in Ubuntu you have to force the 644P as the software will say that the ID is not correct.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
FYI: has a usb to serial w/parallel adapter on sale today, if you need one. Just thought I'd point it out, as it is one of those daily deals.by marnargulus - Controllers
The only thing I can think of is that maybe you need to go back to Arduino-18 and -F force the 644P. I had problems loading my chip, but I built a DAPA and just bit-banged the hex file on. Arduino used to support Sanguino boards, but it looks like they removed support?by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Can you describe your heat bed? Do you have all the resistors in series or parallel? How are you connecting them to your build plate? Do you have thermal compound where you mount, and insulation on the bottom side? How thick of wire are you using from PS to bed? What firmware are you using? Is this a 1.3A board or older? What kind of power supply are you using? What are the specs on it?by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Can anyone confirm that the 1280 uses PWM instead of D#? I'm not familiar with that particular model of Arduino, so I can't do any tests on it.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Try putting a 110-124 Ohm resistor between the reset pin and the 5V pin. This should disable the auto-reset.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
I checked all the wiring it looks good as long as PWM 7-13 are the same as D7-D13. I assume you are following this guide: Check that the notch on the LED are facing the same way as the one that works.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
644P Pins 6 - MOSI. 7 - MISO. 8 - SCK. 9 - Reset. 10 - VCC. 11 - GND. 12 - XTAL1. 13 - XTAL2. 14 - RXD (read from serial port). 15 - TXD (transmit to serial port). 30 - AVCC. 31 - GND. 32 - AREF. Pin 1 is top left (with dot being up), Pin 20 is bottom left, Pin 21 is bottom right, and pin 40 is top right. If you have the board this is way easier, as it is just the 2X3 pinout to the 2by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Nevermind this is the older Mega, but is it a clone?by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Just at a glance I can see 9 wires from the board to the breadboard, should be 6 according to the arduino guide.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
FTDI Drivers or I think the link you want is I'll keep helping where I can, but I use Ubuntu, so I can't check these things for you.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Try loading into 32bit mode, as I believe that the Arduino IDE has trouble in 64bit mode. At the very least try out the 32 bit java JRE. Make sure the FTDI drivers are installed for the USB to serial converter. It will be under COMS and Ports in device manager.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
What is your setup? (I'm assuming you have the Arduino MEGA as an ISP and are programming a blank sanguinololu?) Are you running in Windows/Linux/Mac? Can you see your boards in your device manager? Are you running in the terminal or are you running the Arduino GUI? Can you load sketches into the MEGA? Is it set to ArduinoISP? Take some pictures of your boards if you can with the connecby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Before I get into this: Yes, I know that MISO is 1. Some people did not do EE in college though, and this information is surprisingly hard to google. I'm just walking people through how to deduce this, and to point out that drawings are not the same thing as schematics (come on Arduino.cc). Another person just told me they figured this same thing out based on the fact that pins 18-25 are grounby marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
Did you check your pin numbering? Numbering starts at 0 not 1 (Pin 0, Pin 1... etc instead of Pin 1, Pin 2 ....) Is your power on USB or Ext?by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
200 bucks for electronics does seem steep, but if you aren't confident in your ability to just solder these parts you may want to invest in the support they give you. If you're paying 125 dollars in labor costs there ought to be some support after the fact. If you don't care about support, then you can go with a sanguinololu (1.3a for prusa), get the pre-mounted FTDI and all you need to do areby marnargulus - Controllers
Yes, the Arduino will work fine as an ISP.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
And it is best to cut the serial cord and hard wire it, as if you just stick the resistor leads into the female end you risk bricking the chip if they lose contact.by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
This weekend I'll get a step by step instructions set up for using the parallel port (printer) to serial (or direct pin) method described by Traumflug's link to Arduino.cc's hacking blog. My understanding is that after you've done your first board you can use that as an ISP, but if you have a serial cord hanging around, all you need are: wiring (doesn't need to be a specific cable, just ~ 22-24by marnargulus - Sanguino(lolu)
You can actually remove the nut between the washer and the plastic piece, moving the motor closer to the bearings. This should give you a few cm's, plenty to move the belt closer to the head of the pulley.by marnargulus - General