Test your endstop by sending m114/m119 command and see if it's triggered, then try pressing the endstop switches and send the command again to see if there's any changes in the results returned If marlin returned the endstops triggered/open when both being pressed and released, check your wiring, for example for mine, on ramps 1.4, I wired it to positive and signal, but it returned as static, soby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
My rule of thumb for opensource items or objects or kits is, find a model that you can source most of the hardware on your local stores. mendelmax series basically a much more rigid version compared to prusa i2 uses threaded rods for its frame and 2020 aluminium are not that easy to find in my place, at least I might not surveyed all aluminium suppliers yet mendel 90, basically from prusa seriby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I probably going to suggest you to get folgertech 2020 i3 too and i will advise you to construct a heat chamber that will hook on to the 2020 frame. This is because you might infinitely trying to heat your heated bed to 110'c because it's being cooled way faster than it could heated up. I got this problem and I had to move the bed to the back to somewhat shields it from the ceiling fanby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
The extruded filament is clearly means that it is overheated if it's brown, or heated for too long. Does the motor able to move during the process and it grinds on the filament?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
As far as i know, nema17 stepper motor is the minimum motor used for this for its torque (based on reprap wiki), there are also other model uses stepper motor that were shipped with arduino starter kit (silver). If you have access to cnc milling machine more than 1 axis, you might able to get away with that too or you could consider sourcing prusa i3 graber type, this one uses less printed partsby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, congrats too though, if you're using a flange nut type, maybe can try this one instead of using nut with springsby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I can imagine the folgertech 2020 is good, even I myself viewing the kit also made me drool of buying another one too but I had to stop the drool... hahahha.... It is simple, I could imagine the amount of screws required are somewhat 1/4th of what my geeetech use because of its simplicity and rigidity of the 2020 aluminum profile. With the extra space for the x axis, you can reach max print sizby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
First of all, there are no fake nor legit since repraps are open source, if you're saying about legit design as in the first prusa i3 design; box frame design, sunhokey or geeetech would match that, while in the video, it would be hephaestos, replikeo or prusa i3 rework series. If want something simple go for rework or folgertech 2020, easy to assemble from my observation, I own geeetech i3b, Iby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
It might be due to the nozzle size though, smaller size are good for small and finer prints, larger are good, and balanced are usually around 0.4mm diameter. I printed another same part that I had delamination before, printed at 250'c with my genuine e3d v6 0.4mm nozzle; 60mm speed, 30% honeycomb, 50% outer perimeter speed. I spotted one delamination point, so I guess I'm going to crank up my temby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you sure it's mm/min not mm/s? You might be printing too fast or probably you didn't adjust the potby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Printing in pla often won't give you any issues such as delaminations, but will go soft when the temp is over 60'c, I just completed one of my printer parts and I spotted delamination there, not one, but several area too on different height. I printed it on 240'c I don't know about using resistance value to check the thermistor true value returned. maybe you could try compare it with your multiby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
What about your acceleration value?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay, I think I got it solved, I just pressed the rest button once again while powered with usb connection, and reuploaded the firmware, I tried connecting it from pronterface and it returns my eeprom settings, what a relieve, I hope soby sarf2k4 - General
As far as I remember, it did upload successfully and here is my config.h , Then I tried to connect using pronterface then I still unable to connect the it stayed there trying to connect but nothingby sarf2k4 - General
I never changed the baud rate, if i am still unable to connect, how can i fix this?by sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I pressed the sanguino 1.3a reset button, the one beside the atmega chip, I could upload marlin using arduino ide successfully but pronterface unable to connect, could someone tell me whats going on?by sarf2k4 - General
Delamination and abs plastic? I can only suggest you to pump up your temp even more probably 250'c, and see how well it goesby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I did thought about the g92, however, i am troubled by the fact that the z home offset were ignored when i set it to negative. I tried with z home offset = -0.80, ibused the g0 zz0 command then it shows z =0.0x. However, moving down the z axis from pronterface is possible and m114 returned z=-0.8 This is possible if i use g92 z0.8 included in the start of gcode right?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I rely heavily on m206 before i adding this auto bed leveling probe, probably hoping for it to auto adjust the nozzle height based on the probe offset calibration. I mainly wanted not to rely on m206 for z axis actullyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Ahh, you mean rhe z home offset, i am quite confused on how to set the offset was it negative or positive value. I try with positive value firse because i never tried with positive yetby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I disabled the lcd panel because enabling the lcd would throw me some kind of overflow, so far i am using cura and not tested on slic3r yet, but this is troubling because it kept staying about 1mm above the bed during printing By having these setting, could you tell me about it?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I viewed your picture 1.jpg, there's definitely something is missing on the spring. You're supposed to have an m6 hex bolt on top of it, then it will be pushed by the smaller screw on top, The m3 screw on the bottom sticks out too much and will have no effect on the spring too, it's simply to hold the spring in place, while the top part, like i said, there should be about m6 hex bolt on top of thby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, it's time for my problem I installed aluminum bed, inductive sensor and followed Tom Sanladerer's video and how to install it, I tried redoing his method, that is having the nozzle touching the bed, put the sensor 1mm above it, homed all axis, auto bed level the g29, heat up the nozzle, g92 z10 to lower the nozzle for axis probe z offset, reuploaded the firmware. The above steps I followedby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
This has to do with the steps/mm valueby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemuntahunta Managed to sort the height out, apparently repetier was overriding the firmware. I now have an extruder problem. the extruder is an MK8, it doesnt "grip" the filament. when i push through with my hand, the filament comes through fine, but no matter how many steps i put in, it doesnt seem to be pushing filament through Tighten the extruder spring tension, I don't recommend adjustby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Welcome onboard , I thought this he3d uses aluminum at first glance but actually an acrylic, most likely ~6mm thickness and with the letter holes there from what I think, will make the structure even weaker, in addition to the full graphic panel screwed on top of it too. Have fun anywayby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes it does, however, do note that there are limitation to your hot end and extruder too how fast your extruder can push and how fast your hot end can melt the plastic. The parameters you used during slicing is the default means at 1 or 100% speed in FR (feed/flow rate?) on the lcd panel, lower means slower and vice versa. Frankly, I only used this twice, increasing the speed, didn't see anyby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, you can, either just turning the lcd knob or adjust the speed the % slider then press send at pronterface, I'm sure there's any in repetier tooby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
How about arduino v1.0.x? It is most likely the atmega chip is brickedby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Flow rate differs from filament makers, during calibration we often uses cube, 0 infill no top shells, then flow rate at 100%, set perimeter/wall to be about 3, print it, then measure the most flat wall with your digital caliper, then result divide with target (I think). Above is summary of steps how to do it Important? Yes it does, not only you can save plastic by about 10-30% depending on youby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants