QuoteFA-MAS You could try skimming through Thomas Sanladerer's Unboxing and Build. He's usually pretty thorough at describing everything. Here Yes I see the bed has simple probe points that are probably just aluminum inserts, Ive already watched all of Tom's videos and im a big fan. I notice the probe has to get "very" close to the bed that would tell me that since its being powered by 5v frby tattooedfish - Reprappers
Ok so I've been looking into setting up auto bed leveling. I'm trying to figure out how they managed to get inductive sensor to work off a 5v rail without the need for extra components or complex wiring. I've looked up the numbers on the probe sticker and as some of you already know it seems that's more relevant to prusa than the company that manufactured them. I went as far as trying to ask thby tattooedfish - Reprappers
He responded to me and said the Steel he uses is st20 ? I tried looking up data on that and it just keeps taking me to linear bearings info or steel pipe but I don't see any hardness info on st20by tattooedfish - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist You want hardened rails for LM8UU bearings or the balls will chew up the rails quickly. If they don't say they are hardened, they aren't. You can cut hardened rails to length using a cutoff wheel on a grinder or a chop saw. There's always a little slop in LM8UU bearings, so if they used 4, you'd probably better use 4. Alternatively, you can get extra long bearings, buby tattooedfish - Reprappers
So i pulled the trigger on a Graber i3 frame. Looking at shipping time it probably wont reach me in the US at least for a month which is fine since im probably going to spend 3 months just on parts sourcing I have a few questions though. I was looking at the pic of z carriage's and noticed 2 Lm8uu bearings per side, I was wondering wouldn't just 1 Lm8Luu suffice instead? Also any tips on howby tattooedfish - Reprappers
I don't fee this is accurately describing my problem? I understand "most" of the settings in the printer speed area in pronterface I understand the default setting has the smaller perimeters set to slower than large perimeters I have the first layer set at 40% travel speed. So as my second layer prints it speeds up some and goes around the outer perimeter at the set speed then it does all the iby tattooedfish - General
Hey guys im having a few issues with my printer and wondering if someone brighter than I am can help me figure out whats settings I need to adjust. my printer is a prusa i2 using pronterface /slicer im using sprinter firmware on ramps 1.4 I have noticed when I get to larger areas of my prints my machine speeds up dramatically faster which would be great if my hot end could keep up with the spby tattooedfish - General
great news I had aha moment and remembered where I got the original firmware file and found a copy of it works just fine now thanksby tattooedfish - General
Giving up on this I guess for now been staring at it to point of meltdown now I keep trying to lost the configuration .h and srduino is giving me a extension error and won't load the fileby tattooedfish - General
oh I understand the cold extrusion part I just hit that to see what functions would or wouldn't work. I am using mechanical end stops but I don't know how to set them up properly This was a functioning machine before it had taken me weeks to get it working properly with firmware but I was having heater issues so someone suggested I go back into firmware and adjust the max pid setting and thatby tattooedfish - General
I can't get my printer to work properly none of the axis move. I have never been very good with programming language could use some help here is the errors im getting in pronterface Connecting... start Printer is now online. echo: External Reset Marlin 1.0.0 echo: Last Updated: Aug 25 2013 19:45:12 | Author: (none, default config) Compiled: Aug 25 2013 echo: Free Memory: 4521 PlannerBufferby tattooedfish - General
If it was skipping randomly I would say its extruder issue or bad filament but if it only does it durning outlines and not infill ever then it may be a g code issue can you recall anything you have started doing differently that could pinpoint the cause of it ?by tattooedfish - General
Is it one specific file or does it do it on all your prints ?by tattooedfish - General
so did you post to help ??? Or did u fell the need to scowl? Seeshby tattooedfish - General
at this point I think I just need a ultimaker or send someone my printer and let them work all the bugs out of everythingby tattooedfish - General
ok I feel like a moron here and can't find my answer I went into firmware to set max pid because I was having a issue with my hot end heathing up too fast and causing the hot end to shut off mid print. So somehow or another I have the bad luck of loosing my original saved firmware file that I know worked correctly for my printer and now ive forgotten how to set everything up. I have ramps 1.by tattooedfish - General
Would a short in the thermistor also be related to why I sometimes see random thermistor readings ? I bet the wire just has a short in it I will check it and let u guys know if that does the trickby tattooedfish - General
the printer keeps going extruder and all but the hot end shuts off its not saying anyting on the log about max temp I am still printing around 230 cause I have a jheadby tattooedfish - General
I keep trying to print and around about a hour of printing my extruder motor gets hot and when I press the extrude button it starts clicking like like its trying to turn but can't.. not sure what the issue is the heatsink on the MOSFET is also burning hot. I let it cool down and it works fine. I tried turning down the screw on the driver but it doesn't seem to be making a differenceby tattooedfish - General
hot end turns itself off mid print? what would cause this I have done about 7 or 8 prints since I swapped out my heater cartridge no problems at all now all of then sudden a couple of times my heater has shut itself off on its on. I felt the mosfet that was connected to it and its warm but not hot and there are no shorts in wiring. I also checked the g code to see if someone was pulling a praby tattooedfish - General
RP Iron Man Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would recommend using a 3.6Ohm wirewound > resistor instead of a 40W heater cartridge. I have > tested several heater cartridges from different > Chinese suppliers and they were all poorly > manufactured in one way or another Plain > resistor heaters are cheaper and you don't have to > worry aboutby tattooedfish - General
So far so good i did a print last night and I think its the best print yetby tattooedfish - General
I took a break and thought about it. I found a old spring that was a spare uncoiled it and ran it around the inside of the j head and a clump came out now its working fine at least for now bout to try a test print and see><by tattooedfish - General
I am really stumped on this one. I was having extruding issues the filament would extrude right up until the melt zone and then right as I get to the melt zone it just chews into the hobbed bolt prusa i2 on ramps 1.4 with a mkiv-b jhead printing abs at 200-230c oddly this happened right after I got a new roll of white abs filament from ebay. I was able to print about 3 parts with it and eby tattooedfish - General
This one is 20mm long and I had to drill out the hole in the j head to get it to fit but not by muchby tattooedfish - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So did you receive yours yet and how long is it? > > > I am opting to buy a 20mm long one now, because > the one I currently have is 23mm and it s*cks with > a J-head. I "think" it showed up today I won't know till I get home but will report what I gotby tattooedfish - General
Actually I figured it out like 5 min after I got home thanks thoughby tattooedfish - General
If I wanted to print out plans on a home printer for the prusa I3 frame from the dfx file could I property do a tile print that I can use as a guide to manually cut the frame myself ? I used to do this with old balsa built Rc planes but I wasn't sure if these files would tile accuratelyby tattooedfish - General
Sounds like some poor quality control going onby tattooedfish - General
I have also heard that the hole can be bigger than the cartridge and to fix this just wrap aluminum foil around the heater for a snug fitby tattooedfish - General