It was a smart move to improve the extruder idler tension and stepper torque, since those parts of the extruder is key to properly assessing the hot end condition. Now that the filament is flowing consistently, jamming may now be less of an issue. Happy to know that you are having better success with the printing now.by Airtripper - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi Ohmarinus, Looking at your kit and reading about the problem with printing, I feel the fan is the likely cause of the problem your having. I think at best, you are only getting a light breeze from the fan which is far short of what you need to keep the PEEK temperature down; I'm thinking the fan is about 40mm x 40mm from the pictures. You could print a reducer pipe to fit a larger fan as aby Airtripper - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Here's a method of measuring extrusion effort. It's still in it's early stages of design but the electronics and firmware is now available for everybody. The graphing software is being prepared for release, however, force measurements can be view through the Arduino IDE serial monitor. Airtripper Extruder Filament Force Sensor: Arduino Load Cell Circuit & Sketch for Calibration Test Designby Airtripper - General
PTFE is used as a non-stick coating for pans and other cookware, so if you find a pan that boast a different kind of non-stick coating then that might be an alternative to explore.by Airtripper - General
It's unlikely that you will be able to measure flow consistency from the melt chamber pressure because from the results I've produced from my own kit shows extruder filament force measurements are also influenced from outside the nozzle. Perimeters use less extrusion force than in-fills (both set at same speed). In fact, any warping and filament clumping as well as different fill patterns will hby Airtripper - General
You won't like bowden extruders then, there is plenty of slop there, but I get by.by Airtripper - General
uGen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Extruding cooler also means modified layer > adhesion. Black PLA from plastic2print will > delaminate relatively easy when printed at 180°C, > but yield very strong parts when printed at > 210°C. > > Two things I like about the design, though: the > use of smaller motors also means more compact > priby Airtripper - General
You could probably use FTDI Breakout boards as the serial link. . About GBP 2.50 on ebay. ebayby Airtripper - General
From the design it looks like the filament can only be driven in one direction so retraction operations are not possible. However, he does claim that you can extrude the filament much cooler to have ooze free prints. Where is all the video footage of the tests to back the claims? Here's another extruder campaign: Looks like it's still a work in progress and no 3d printing demonstration yet.by Airtripper - General
doomstrike Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check the link I provided for specs. The original > worked for a good 3 days and only died after my > screw up. > > I followed this wiring guide. 2 pins where 4 wires > were twisted together and the other 2 had 3 wires > twisted together. > > Edit: Oops forgot link: > http://78.47.92.212/i3by Airtripper - General
Is this not the board with the endstop connector pins clearly labelled?by Airtripper - General
ttn000 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a doubt in my minitronics I have three pins > for endstop and only two wires to connect, > does anyone know which ones to use. > > > rs.jpg > > Thanks at all The 3 pins give you an option to use mechanical or electronic endstops. The "+" pin is only required for electronic endstops where powby Airtripper - General
The reprapper 1.75mm PLA filament I recently got has been awful to use. Is it just me or has anybody else had issues. Issues such as large variations in diameter measurements in the filament , first layer print failures, excessive stringing and clumping. I'm thinking this filament expands quite a lot more than the last lot of filament I've been using from a different supplier.by Airtripper - General
You probably need something like this and this one is free to download Google cnc cam software and you'll see plenty more to choose from with most being expensive to purchase.by Airtripper - General
From what I've seen, PLA has hardly been the selling point of all-metal hot ends. The selling point for these hot ends have been about how hot they can go and that they can extrude PEEK and Nylon. Most of the hot ends being developed and sold can only be regarded as being at the experimental stage and not at the cutting edge or bleeding edge stage. Did anybody ask for test history details toby Airtripper - General
QuoteJasper1984 Note: this post is very incomplete. See if i can make a model and a way to actually fit it to data. Why do you think the force climbs slowly? I think the slowly climbing extrusion force is a characteristic of my particular nozzle design due to the nozzle orifice extending quit far from the heater block. My theory is that as well as heat being lost from the nozzle tip, heat is alsby Airtripper - General
I appreciate the comments guys, thanks. Basically, the extruder filament force sensor idea is just about a month old and have had very little time to do a proper range of tests with being busy with other stuff. Before I do any more testing I'm going to get the build guide wrote-up to allow other people to get involved and do their own testing. I built the extruder filament force sensor becauseby Airtripper - General
If you need 2mm of retraction distance then you need 2mm of retraction distance. If the hot end does not work with the retraction distance you need then the hot end has failed. I think evidence is building for PLA filament requiring it's own hot end design. One hot end design extrudes all could be achievable if PLA was not included; like the all metal hot ends. If the hot end is designed to worby Airtripper - General
Well, I can tell you what to avoid; Hot End Clones. Are you looking at a direct drive extruder or a Wades style geared extruder or a bowden style extruder?by Airtripper - General
QuoteAirtripper Increasing the steps per mm will slow the extrusion rate. It was late and ended up giving wrong information about steps per unit. Sorry. I've looked at the images on flickr and the models show that the printer is not calibrated properly, possibly in many areas. Send a command to the printer from the interface software to extrude 10mm of filament and measure how much filament isby Airtripper - General
Increasing the steps per mm will slow the extrusion rate. However, this should be calibrated properly with all your other axis on the 3d printer. You would only need to calibrate the steps per unit once as long as the hardware does not change. It will be difficult to properly analyse your 3d prints unless the steps per units are accurate. Which firmware are you using?by Airtripper - General
Well, the QU-BD MBE Extruder V9 did not work with the 1.75 PLA I had. It seems that the stainless steel barrel was not smooth enough to force the filament swell down to the melt chamber. The filament just gripped solid inside the barrel. I got another hot end delivered today which is the J-Head MK-IV Hot end. It needs some assembly and a bracket designed and printed, and since it will be for 1.7by Airtripper - Printing
That would be Layer Height (mm) on the Carve tab.by Airtripper - General
The nozzle temperature may not be high enough, causing the filament to be stretched across the surface. The filament will pull at the edges as it cools, overhangs being most vulnerable causing them to curl up. You can see around the base of your print where the edges have lifted, if you can keep the base flat on on the bed, the rest of the print should finish without a hitch. Increasing the nozby Airtripper - General
I think your fine printing ambitions is probably better suited using 1.75mm filament. You're trying to manipulate a large amount of melted plastic to control a tiny output. See if increasing the layer height makes a difference.by Airtripper - General
QuoteRep Rap Argentina Skeinforge 50 flowrate has to be from 215 to 255, i guess is coded on PWM You should be able to just type in any number you want. Feed rate and flow rate are usually set to the same number for stepper extruders. Using the small buttons to change the numbers up or down restricts the range.by Airtripper - General
Quotesypher Found out that it is often a hit and miss with this system and require a lot of supervision so I am looking forward to your recommendation ASAP. Just curious as to which two kit are you looking at? I've been working on one of the hot ends today but not had a chance to get it printing due to it being a bit late for the noise. It has jammed solid on a couple of tests but ramping the teby Airtripper - Printing
Quotesypher Hi, can you clarify something? On your blog you mention that the unit came ready and work right out of the box and from the picture on this page, beside the hot bed and hot end, we have the same setup. Could the problem be something else like the heat distributions on the hot end? I got the original hot end working and got some good prints out of it, but I later had problems when I cby Airtripper - Printing
From youtube message Quotesypher Hi, I remember you from way back when Richard first started launching on Indiegogo. I am having some problem trying to get my system to extrude consistently. I have the first batch of extruder and wondering if that maybe is the problem. Just wondering if you can maybe take a look at my thread that I made on reprap.com below. I have been working on this for over aby Airtripper - Printing
I've always put a taper on the recess inside a hole, but using a plane is much easier and quicker to do. rogerw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hello everyone, > i want to put a 2-3mm round recess in the bottom > of my part* to have a screw head set into (*the > face that is on the bed - can't turn the part > over). > the recess will only be diaby Airtripper - General