Sounds good to me. Also the subtitles are quite good too. Thank you, Markus!by AndrewBCN - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Quotetanner331 Hi I am working on a Rostock 3d printer and I had a question about the heat bed. I am looking to use a 240mm round heat bed from Ultibots, but it is 24v instead of 12v, what would it take to run this heat bed on the ramps 1.4? Here is a link to the heater for the heat bed 24v kapton heater Thanks Tanner Hi Tanner, +1 to what Dust answered. Please note that the link you have providby AndrewBCN - Controllers
I do agree that it makes no difference whether we have an 8-bit, 16-bit, 32-bit or 64-bit MCU as long as it does the job (I know, that's rather vague, but you get the idea). However, we already have a division of the Electronics forum into 7 subforums including one subforum dedicated to Sanguinololu and one to Gen N+1 electronics, and there is no subforum that focuses on - let's call it like thatby AndrewBCN - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Hi, Although I am personally using the ubiquitous Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 combo for all my printers (in other words, the "standard" 8-bit electronics) and am quite satisfied with it, I recently began looking at 32-bit alternatives, since there is the constant rehash in this forum that "32-bit is the future". And I agree that it's not just because of the number of bits in a processor, thereby AndrewBCN - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Quotenicksears Does the "smart ramps" have a due-compatible firmware with support for this board (408) yet? Can I just add this to bobc's firmware? I just got my smart ramps, I'll try it when I get a chance. I see the SD card should work, does the standard LCD/SD card reader combo work? (I'll solder the aux-4 header pins) Also the same question for the rrd fan extender? Nick, until this productby AndrewBCN - Controllers
Quotecxandy The Chinese modified can worked properly. Firmware support Repetier (due) and Marlin (due). Here is a link Hi cxandy, Thanks for pointing out this new board. I would like to seize this opportunity to explain to you how selling the idea of a new product goes in the RepRap world. Basically, you cannot take the design from an existing open-source product (i.e. RAMPS 1.4), modify it slby AndrewBCN - Controllers
Hi, What follows is my subjective and biased opinion. That said, the best Prusa i3 variant out there is one you have not mentioned: the P3Steel. It is simpler and much faster to assemble and the steel frame is incredibly rigid. Although the laser-cut steel frame is slightly more expensive than wood or aluminum frames, you save on plastic parts (fewer printed parts are needed) and most importantlyby AndrewBCN - General Mendel Topics
Very nice calibration guide! Thanks a bunch!by AndrewBCN - Delta Machines
Quoteepicepee Just wanna throw out that an 8-bit MCU can run a delta just fine. Lots of people, including myself, use RAMPS to run deltas. Thank you for your refreshingly honest post! There is a lot of FUD being spread here in this forum about using the ubiquitous Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 combo to control linear delta printers. Something I always thought was quite odd was that when Johan Rby AndrewBCN - Developers
Quotedclarkm ATX supplies usually require both 5V and 3.3V to have some minimal load before GOOD 12V regulation kicks in. The requirement vary widely and the manufacturers would not publish numbers on what is required to run a good, regulated 12V only output (since they don't design the things to be run that way). It's really a crap shoot for the sake of day one savings. As I mentioned above aby AndrewBCN - Developers
Quoteshadowphile Well I DID ask for feedback! But I thought I had selected a decent 450W supply because I know that PC supplies can be vastly under-powered compared to their rating (I paid $45 for it). And the 750W was a Corsair. I'm just used to buying OEM supplies for work (and I use them for general purpose applications and never thought of them as 'LED' drivers; guess that has been a risinby AndrewBCN - Developers
Quoteanwe79 My main issue with ATX power supplys is that they don't come in 24 volt versions. The whole system benefits from higher voltages (if designed for it), so I don't consider The ATX route a viable option. That is a rather blanket statement with a big "if". The fact is that at the moment, RepRap electronics are designed for 12V. If you want to use 24V you are pretty much in experimentalby AndrewBCN - Developers
Quotedc42 AndrewBCN, I agree with you that good branded ATX PSUs are better for running 3D printers than cheap ATX PSUs. For a while I used a Corsair CX430M in place of the Alpine 550W PSU supplied with my Ormerod kit, even though the Alpine PSU worked OK for me. But I don't understand what you have against 12V OEM power supplies. Please note that I don't have anything against any PSU, brand orby AndrewBCN - Developers
Hey Colin, Just chiming in to encourage you to continue on with your development work, this is a very interesting piece of software that you have designed. Yes, there is a lot of misinformation and "so and so says it can't be done" in all forums around the world, this forum here is no exception, don't let that discourage you. That said, if you are using Linux I would strongly suggest you take a lby AndrewBCN - Developers
Quoteshadowphile I've gone through 3 supplies now: original I had laying around, a used gamer-grade 750W, and a new 450W. They all died on me shortly after use. My max (steady) current draw is about 16 Amps for the heat bed and one hot-end, plus the motion stuff. The 750W was rated for 60 amps! It still died though, partly I think because I may have accidently shorted the output, although werby AndrewBCN - Developers