Quoteo_lampe RADDS unleashed! After finding the reason for the vibrating steppers, I replaced the RAPS128 drivers on X & Y axis of my CoreXY with the CF1-modded TMC's Not only can I print small circles much faster, but I could also crank up the acceleration from 500 to 2000mm/s²! The printer almost jumps from the table now And it is still silent in spreadcycle mode. Replacing drivers: savby GroupB - General
by GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
You dont really need a second SD card slot, the pinout are there to just hook another one to replace the inboard one, Off course you dont put a card in both at the same time. I did it on my radds cause the sd slot have problem even after less than 100 remove/insert, I hook a full sd card slot to the pinout of the onboard one and its working fine.So my guess is you hook your panel due sd card liby GroupB - Controllers
Probably that lack of torque thing I was talking about... I hear you can set them close to they peak rating and the controller will up and down the current when needed ( smart current control) but do some searching before I only "hear" this im not 100% sure. They probably not good enough for corexy Z because of this or direct extruder.by GroupB - General
Im using 1/64 with 1.8 stepper so far , never tried 1/128 because of the speed thing and the noise at 1/64 is very low anyway I dont see the need for going 128 right now. The max speed im using is off course the travel and its near 230-250. They are expensive but they are the best I tried so far I use 4988 and 8825 in the past vs my 8825 setting on same controller I got a good jump in quality buby GroupB - General
Next time DJ if you setting a new electronic (look like you like to test thing hehehe) try the raps128 I use them and they really good, specially in a socket, they are the only one with real top cooling and no mod needed ( socket plug and play) and on top of it they are real 128 microstep not 16 microstep X16 ( tmc suppose to have the precision of 16 microstep but the noise of 256, are rated loweby GroupB - General
Quotereifsnyderb Here is a web page from a highly experienced 3d printer owner that compared e3d to J-Heads. The J-Head prints are on the right. Im sorry to say but your highly experienced 3d printer owner look like he cant figure how to set a e3d or a simply bias to your J-head and he make sure the setting was off on the e3d to give that kind of result, Im not saying your J-head are notby GroupB - General
Des cube de 1 cm, c'est trop petit pour aider a calibrer , perso je print un + de 20cm par 20cm pour la calibration de la grandeur des pieces et je tune des 100 % infill sur un carre de 40X40 et je joue sur le % extrusion en direct avec le M221 , j'ai donc mon fil principal tuner avec les step seulement et a 100% dextrusion dans les slicer et en M221, et les autre fils je prend le meme profile eby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
No problem always happy to helpby GroupB - Delta Machines
Your magnet look pretty weak , the usual size is 3/8X3/8 cylinder (about 9.5X9.5mm) near 7.5-9 lbs (3.5-4kg) and the best configuration is the other way around, 10mm balls on effector and magnet in the arm with a 45 degree angle at the effector and at the carrier and a very minimal gap between magnet and balls. Everyone that I saw run the other configuration like your have problem with disconnecby GroupB - Delta Machines
That stuff look complicated to set VS reprapfirmware... what you say DjDemonD ? since you have try marlin,rrf and now smoothie. Maybe after a couple week running smoothie you can compare the + and the - of each firmware and lets us know the strong and the weak point of each.by GroupB - Controllers
It depend how large are your layer shift and if they are random but if its multiple shift and look random it can be that the belt is not tight enough. When I first build my delta the walls of print were not great until I tight my belts a good amount ( also arround 1 meter height). Mine require a scary amount of tightening I was scare to bend my .25 inch motor plate I had to use a big screw driveby GroupB - Delta Machines
Lot of people said clone hotend are not as good... but they never test one. I made the choice to start with a clone to reduce the cost of the machine and then upgrade later, but guess what I dont feel the need to upgrade so far the clone I have give me superb print in PLA,Ngen and TPE I bet you cant tell looking at the final result if a clone print it or a original. I will go as far as saying myby GroupB - Delta Machines
The main diff between duet .85 and the wifi version is not the addition of wifi.. its the driver... you are no longer stuck on 1/16. That the main reason I chose radds last year vs 1/16 duet. Any controller can be made wifi with octoprint. so dont think of the duet wifi as a 0.85 with only a wifi add to it. Off course you can pay less for a 0.85 and add a raspberry pie (35$ us) and maybe even wirby GroupB - Delta Machines
I was waiting till more ppl test the new update and put time on it.. that and also im quite lazy those day, I dont want to go through bossac flash and stuff until im sure its 100% working or I need a function that are only on new firmware. Ill check for the update maybe next week.by GroupB - Delta Machines
QuoteRiggi Oh wow I was expecting it to take a while, but not about 2 years. You must've quite the perseverence to be able to stay interested in your project for so long. How did you experience calibrating your machine? Was it a pain in the ass? A friend of mine isn't convinced of my choice to build a Delta printer because he believes calibrating the printer will be a nightmare and you'll have toby GroupB - Delta Machines
I dont blame you DC42 I assume the same and never try it before this last month where I saw some half price, then I had to try it, I was ready to move to direct extruder temporary for a project im doing that will require some tpe but It was a very nice surprise to see I was able to do it good enough with the bowden. Off course the part require some cleaning , Im still tuning the retract to avoidby GroupB - Delta Machines
About a year into learning the in and out of delta ( at the time the info on delta were prettry rare), and it was my first build and first 3d printer ( yah I know ppl told me not to do it but I did it anyway), then about 4 month design in CAD, I change my design a couple time, first a friend offer me CNC work then decide to step back so I redesign to be able to make all part myself with simple toby GroupB - Delta Machines
dc42 do you have a post somewhere that explain pressure advance and to enable/tune it ? I guess you have to tell RRF the nozzle size etc instead of using only s3d to control that.by GroupB - Delta Machines
You can also use pulley instead of idler and put the shaft on bearing on each side so the shaft turn with the pulley, that what I did on my delta, when I did it the toothed idler were rare, since its not a core XY you dont need to have 2 idler per shaft so pulley on shaft with a flat is an option, you probably were thinking about support on each side anyway.by GroupB - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonDGroupB - if you had access to a high quality CNC machine for free would you make an effector to replace your hand made one? To replace probably not since its working fine and it weight almost nothing and I move on to other projects that take all my time, a new printer maybe but it would be very similar design to the one I have right now but the 45 degree tab will be mill instead ofby GroupB - Delta Machines
that where you are kind of wrong You do not need to have all part exactly the same if you build in some clearance for hole, you adjust it when you first build it and put everything square ( you kinda need to do it anyway with pre build part, a 3d printer is not something you put A on B and expect it to work with the highest quality). Best build have adjustment all around and carefully measure evby GroupB - Delta Machines
Les "toothed idler" c'est mieux c'est sur, ca fait moin de bruit, et sa fait moin d'usure . le trucs c;est le radius minimum, sans dent sur les poullie, les dent sur la couroie cherche a se contracter lun vers lautre, c;est possible de prendre des iddler lisse mais faut avoir un beaucoup plus gros radius pour eviter les problems a long terme mais sa evite pas le bruit. En gros quelques personneby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
im with DC42 on this, I also have a 600mm bowden and I dont feel the need to do flying extruder and sacrifice my speed...I dont even use the pressure advance ( Did not quite catch how its working in RRF or how to active/tune it) and my retraction are pretty good using s3d and guess what a e3d clone I rework. I dont even Wipe , I have little coast at the end like .25 and thats it. I tried many brby GroupB - Delta Machines
There always many way to do thing, you can use magnetic arm without being force to use plastic carrier or effector... just build your own, you only need to be able to screw the ball at 45 degree angle.. a simple .125 " plate bend can do the trick easy and very lightweight compare to a full cnc effector/carrier. Same for the metal corner you can also build your own if you dont care about using somby GroupB - Delta Machines
QuoteJamesK It's also worth pointing out that RADDS + Due is not a common platform - there won't be many people to answer questions if the OP goes that route. Unless you have a firmware problem and you use the RRF firmware ... then all duet userbase can help you out since its the same firmware pretty much ( sometime there some option missing in old firmware version but thats it) Hardware wise..by GroupB - General
Reprap firmware support c'est le firmware qui a lancer le auto leveling en tk qui la perfectionner... surtout pour delta, il probe et fait tout les reglages et calcul en quelque seconde ,jai jamais tester sur ma delta car jai fait manuelement et une fois seulement y a presque 1 ans de ca .. rien a bouger mais 3 point je suis sur quil le fait sans problem. Bref si jamais tu te lance , moi je suiby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bah tu risque rien a verifier tes courois... Petit question si tu a un radds ( jai aussi un radds/raps128) pourquoi est ce que tu roule marlin ??? SURTOUT sur un coreXY? Tu devrai rouler Reprap Firmware plutot sa teviterai bien des problems et peut etre sa reglerais ton problem actuel s'il est de niveau firmware, jai entendu dire que marlin c'est pas genial en coreXY et a eviter... en plus c'esby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Tu peux esaiyer un petit montage temporaire minimal avec ton arduino pour les verfier... comme certain sont chinois on ne peux pas vraiment se fier a la formule de voltage a moin de verifier la resistance du SENSE ( qui en passant n'est pas la meme formule que 4988). le meilleur moyen mais pas le plus simple est de brancher un multimetre en serie avec un coil du moteur et mettre le driver en stepby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone