There many things you can check. 1. the specs or your stepper. You want to set it near 80% of the specs current, Also make sure of your driver current formula 2. Your temp, are they really 240C ? maybe you got a out of specs thermistor, Checking the thermistor with a multimeter with a thermocouple, you put the sensor directly into the nozzle in the heatbreak and record the difference then adjusby GroupB - Delta Machines
For extrusion my advice is order from the closest to you, local is the best even if they cost a little more. The less time they spend in the mail the better... unless they ship them in a hard cylinder package, postal service will not care about throwing them around and the result can be bend extrusion. Remember for delta your 3 long rail must be perfect and the longer the extrusion the easier toby GroupB - Delta Machines
Give us more detail, something like Firmware you using a least.by GroupB - Delta Machines
For future reference on those pulley/idler I got an answer. The height is 11.3mm Smooth, belt seat D1 15.9mm, Flange D2 17.9mm Toothed please refer pitch of 20 tooth gt2 pulley.by GroupB - CoreXY Machines
The problem using bolt m5 or m8 or whatever is they are not 5mm with the right tolerence (h6 etc) but always smaller causing the bearing to not be tight on the bolt and move under the belt tension. This is not a good solution in my book, im anal about precision, that why I had shaft made on my delta to match the bearing with tolerance. Im ready to lower my expectation with a 5mm smooth rod causeby GroupB - CoreXY Machines
Shoulder screw 5mm are so rare and expensive even here in canads a metric country, so I plan of using 5mm smooth rod as a fix shaft so the preload will be light, washer on each side and 2 independent bracket sandwich the idler creating preload, but I thought about putting a spacer in the idler just in case. I see lot of ppl using regular m5 bolts as shaft and I refuse to do that its not a good wby GroupB - CoreXY Machines
I know that, my design call for 2 meter belt so that why I prefer 9 over 6mm. I already have 2 meter long 6mm belt on my delta and know how tight they need to be, but for my next printer 9mm make more sense for the small price difference, but without the dimension I think I will be force to fall back to 6mm. Since im planing to build 5 printer in a shot minimum I dont feel like ordering all theby GroupB - CoreXY Machines
I ask here cause its problably where must of those idler/pulley are used. Im looking at robotdigg 9mm idler smooth (brass one) and toothed link and cannot find the right dimension. They said they use 695 bearing (13mm OD) in them, its impossible for the toothed (20 tooth = 12.10mm) so this must be for the smooth one but they have very limited dimension info. Anyone have them and can comfirm theby GroupB - CoreXY Machines
Perso je croit que tu as trop d'amperage sur ton driver surtout si tu as un heatsink et un fan dessus, si ton heatsink sur la chip fait 76C dit toi que linterieur du driver est PAS MAL plus chaud, Le seul driver qui utilise vraiment bien les heatsink sur le dessus sont les raps128 ( la chip est modifier pour refroidir par le dessus plutot que par le dessous comme les autres). Donc mesurer le heatby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Une J-head full metal sa n'existe pas ... si tu vois une J head en metal ,cest un clone E3D chinois et je ne sais pas pourquoi il la nomme J-head J'ai moi meme 2 hotend chinois acheter chez robotdigg, Elle marche bien apres avoir demonter et polit linterieur, J'ai egalement acheter un heatbreak full metal avec dont jai loption de changer si je veux PTFE heatbreak or metal. Perso je print avecby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I love my radds and my new raps128 they perform great, Im in process of building 3-4 printer probably coreXY/delta for friends and family (After seeing my delta they want a 3d printer of they own they are hook) But for those I have a hard time to convince myself to chose radds even if I like the removable driver and modular, Mainly cause I want to stay RRF since its easy to setup are real 32 bitby GroupB - Controllers
Great news angelo a better driver is always welcome, unless DC will take over DAN with radds firmware you better send a kit to DAN too in case he come back with more update of RRF for the radds. BTW since you are the creator of the RADDS are you doing something about the firmware side of thing ? if dan never make another RRF port are you not afraid your sell will go down? duet have dc42, smothieby GroupB - Controllers
I always make my own model and usually make my circle a least 32 side for small circle and 128 + for bigger one but the problem I see it while I was trying to print a benchy at 150 /3500 the brim/skirt did a very bad job in circle and those you cant really refine. I will do more test today if I have time and maybe will post them on my thread since I feel im hijacking DjDemonD thread a little bitby GroupB - Delta Machines
Est ce que ton stepper "skip" ? Fait t-il du bruit irregulier quand le problem surgit? Quel est ton Amperage sur ton driver pour l'extruder ?by GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Wait till you try 3500+ its start to get crazy fast, I think I have to play with jerk a little since my circle are very bad at that accel , its like its stopping at each little section of the circle 2500 accel , 60mm/sec is the speed I used for several month, for me its a perfect print all the time. Try printing the benchy in PLA in .2mm, pla show the detail better than ABS, its easier to see wby GroupB - Delta Machines
N'oublier pas l'acceleration dans le firmware... Avec une acel de 1000 ton 150mm/sec n'est pas vraiment 150mm/sec, il commence la ligne a 0 accelere a 150 et ralenti jusqua 0, si ton acceleration est trop bas ton imprimante n'a pas le temp daller a 150mm/sec. Avec une acceleration plus forte, tu as de la vitesse. En general une delta est de 2000 a 3000 de acel dans le firmware, plus si l'impriby GroupB - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
It is just finish some test went 3500 acel and 150 mm\sec on print without problem Even my 230 travel at this acel work fineby GroupB - Delta Machines
My M566 its at 1200 and my max speed is 20000 I think good for 333 mm/sec acel its a 2500 and im planing to go higher to see what happen. Off course with an accel of 1000 I should not have round corner, even at 2500 and print 80mm/sec I dont have them. Im at 2500 acel since a couple month but I usally print at 70 and lower the last wall to 65% and top bottom infill to 60% , those test where I eby GroupB - Delta Machines
We cant also expect dan to do it at each update too.. Maybe when they will be enough new things that we all want in the firmware or a major update we can all pitch in and give a little cash to dan to make it happen and to thanks him for the work he did on prev build. I understand that is quite a job to port each update since dc is very active with his update. Its sad but there no duet that canby GroupB - Controllers
I did my first speed test about 10 minute ago just for the fun of it see what I get. Acel 2500 mm/m, max speed 1200 (reprapfirmware for jerk I guess) travel at 230mm/sec. I did some small half cube at 60,80,100 and 120 mm/sec 100% speed on everything wall,infill only first layer was cut down to 50%. The result are great the wall are still perfect even at 120mm/sec the problem are the corner theyby GroupB - Delta Machines
Be aware that N50 or N42 only go to 80C and after that they will lose they magnetic and wont be magnet anymore... Since your magnet are closer to the bed because they are on effector watch out for that. That the reason I chose 42SH magnet they pull (7.86lbs) 2 lbs less than the N42 version of the same size but go to 150C if I want to enclose or something. Im pretty sure you will go for the plastby GroupB - Delta Machines
I dont know where hayden put his magnet but if its in the carbon tube so tube make contact with balls (you said you need bigger one) you should avoid that. Having a proper cup made of nylon is a must and no need to have a cup surrounding the ball perfectly a 60 degree cone shape will do the trick , just calculate them with the right deep so the ball touch or even go through the back of the coneby GroupB - Delta Machines
You can make your own effector in aluminum I did mine with a .125" plate, a little cutting and some bending (45 degree where the ball attach) and you are set. Its quite light take a look at berrybot effector I base mine on that and did it with a jigsaw and manual bending by hand, so far is doing the job. Im using 10mm ball with thread inside and high temp 3/8 X 3/8 magnet in the arm, no disconby GroupB - Delta Machines
Did you check both boards to see if there anything shorting or damage? Some solder may have move and short pin... Maybe your firmware turn bad too, reflash or even better try reprapfirmware see if its doing the same thing. If its really the board you may want to test with another due before blaming the radds, after all radds dont have lot of electronics its mostly pinout and socket. You can alby GroupB - Controllers
I search today for a 120V (110V) silicone circular 300mm looking for around 350W and find nothing.. they all 500W for that size. @makerparts did you manage to find a supplier in canada or you went to china ?by GroupB - General
When I first build my delta I wanted a sensor to help with calibration too, and I did a manual calibration with paper using the DC42 webpage calculator ( if you use reprap firmware) and the calibration is perfect so far. I did it in march, move the printer 2 time and the printer still perfect, no need to redo the calibration for all those months... So for me automatic calibration or do it everyby GroupB - Delta Machines
Your cup problem at low angle is probably because you have no angle on your ball/cup at your effector, redesign them with a 45 degree and make sure there some clearance for the arm to not touch the effector at low angle and it wont happen anymore. Best case scenario is the when in middle of the bed the ball is facing the cup straight at both effector and at the carrier, giving you the max angle iby GroupB - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe AFAIK, the CD pin is not on the full-SD card adapter, but in the housing where it normally would be inserted. Same for the micro-SD-Cards. The CD pin is a blank metal latch that got pressed against the grounded housing. If your RADDS has a flaky SD-socket use a jumper wire to gnd the CD-pin. Do at your own risk, maybe you better use contact spray -Olaf I know its on the socket, Iby GroupB - Controllers
Anyone have problem with they onboard sd card socket ? Mine starting to get me mad, when I put a new file on the sd card and reinsert it it always take a good 15 minute of remove and insert it before it finally detect the files. Im thinking about using a full size external sd card reader but the one I got do not have a CD pin on it, will it work if I just hook the CD pin of the radds to groundby GroupB - Controllers
I use the hobbyking silicon wire, its just perfect for our application specially for wire that get bend when the head move. I came from R/C world too so I also use servo plug for quick connection , fan/sensor ( and also on the board, where a molex fit, a servo plug will too) and xt-60 for power connector.by GroupB - General