Is the alu solid bar smaller in cross-section than 1515?by realthor - CoreXY Machines
Why not use 1515 T-slot it's lighter and stronger than solid bar... and better than square alu tube...by realthor - CoreXY Machines
Will you be using ALU tubes for the active XY driving linear elements? Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD1-YF7_s8gby realthor - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSrek It might work, but it is difficult to glue silicone to anything. My comment on the stability only realy applies if the bed is moving along Y. By floating I meant Not-Glueing, just placing the glass/ALU plate ontop of three silicone-covered flathead bolts. I don't see it moving during normal printing only if the print speed is such great that the vibrations and/or movement of the frameby realthor - General
Hi guys, I have researched into this before without too much success so I am coming back to it. As much of a fan of the vertical carriages as I am, I came to believe that a horizontal rods X carriage can be made more balanced and symmetric than a vertical one so that rotation around the Y carriages will not affect it much because the nozzle, being in between rods and at about the same level withby realthor - General
QuoteSrek Instead of the Teflon you can use the silicone i mentioned, it's the same though i would use smaller blocks since silicone is more elastic. What the dentist shows is similar to how i solved this for my Dual Cube, the sunk screws are a simple and well working solution. I am talking about a corexy where the bed goes up and down, and was actually thinking about silicone caps on bolt headsby realthor - General
Stiti cumva unde gasesc asa ceva in romania?:by realthor - Piața din centru
Quoteamigob but there is also no direct contact between the heater and the aluminum. Isn't the silicone heater glued to the aluminum (it should have had some sort of adhesive that you would expose by peeling a foil off of it). Do you refer to that glue (or maybe tape) as preventing the heater to contact the aluminum?by realthor - Reprappers
Thanks d_d, that works great for aluminum plate. Where did you get the teflon blocks from? I don't know a place that would sell those in a brick and mortar shop.by realthor - General
Quoteamigob reading the other thread , glueing is not that smart. Use the double sided tap because it also creates a flexible connection, I have no insulator underneath the heater, yet, and it takes 7min to 90c Yeah, I was referring "glue" as a generic term as in "attaching", I don't actually know of a glue to bond glass to alu and take high heat and also conduct heat to the glass. I am still tby realthor - Reprappers
Fantastic, thanks for the trouble of taking the picture. Couple questions - is the "exhaust black" a heat resisting paint used to paint exhaust pipes? Just to make sure i got it right - why bake in the oven? is that how that specific paint works or there's something else evading me? - doesn't the heat from the silicone pad creep to the PLA mounting blocks to deform them? You seem to have a bby realthor - Reprappers
QuoteKoko76 Quoterealthor QuoteSrek Get rid of the glass, use a thicker plate made from cast aluminum and milled from both sides. It will warp very little, especially if you fix it in a way that it has a bit of give. Use gluestick or 3dLac to make prints stick. I've found this, which isn't too expensive... Would this be good enough? http://www.ebay.de/itm/121254993166?clk_rvr_id=1035323292601&aby realthor - General
Why is three point adjusting unstable? I don't see it as unstable and would even venture to float the aluminum/glass plate on silicone-capped adjusting screws (with a silicone cap 10mm diameter). But this is just an idea, I haven't tested it yet. I hear some mount plates (not alu though) with magnets. So the above should work similarly I guess...by realthor - General
QuoteSrek Get rid of the glass, use a thicker plate made from cast aluminum and milled from both sides. It will warp very little, especially if you fix it in a way that it has a bit of give. Use gluestick or 3dLac to make prints stick. I've found this, which isn't too expensive... Would this be good enough? http://www.ebay.de/itm/121254993166?clk_rvr_id=1035323292601&rmvSB=true What techniby realthor - General
QuoteLoboCNC Gluing the aluminum to the glass across the entire surface will definitely cause warping - you are creating something very much like a bimetalic strip that is specifically designed to warp when heated. One solution to avoid a huge sandwich i you don't use any glue is to glue the aluminum to the glass in just a small spot in the center of the plate. With the the heater on the opposiby realthor - General
QuoteLoboCNC Quoterealthor The glass will not float on the aluminum but the aluminum will be glued underneath the glass and the silicone heater will be glued to the aluminum. The glass will be directly supported on the bed frame 3-point-screws so if aluminum warps (and i hope the adhesive will keep it stuck to the glass) it will not affect the glass' position. Now I wonder where can I find someby realthor - General
I wasn't very specific. I am referring to the technique @amigob described here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,666554,667750#msg-667750 Quoteamigob i uses boro glass and 1.5 mm head spreader with silicon heater. it works very well. But be care full aluminum will expand 2 times of the boro glass. I used 10x10cm squares and used dubble side tape to stick these squares to the glass with 1mm sby realthor - General
The glass will not float on the aluminum but the aluminum will be glued underneath the glass and the silicone heater will be glued to the aluminum. The glass will be directly supported on the bed frame 3-point-screws so if aluminum warps (and i hope the adhesive will keep it stuck to the glass) it will not affect the glass' position. Now I wonder where can I find some double adhesive tape that iby realthor - General
QuoteVDX ... how thick? I edited my post, something related to the "<" was picked up by the markup engine and I was showing the signature in the post :-/ ... As said above, 6mm glass...by realthor - General
Hi guys, My quick question is the one in the subject: Would 300x300mm glass plate bow if only supported by the 3 screws for leveling? I am trying to get my bed as light as possible and was planning a stack of cork < silicone heater < heat spreader alu 1.5mm plate < 6mm glass. All this stack would be supported by a 3-point leveling system. But the strongest in the stack is the glass iby realthor - General
Quoteamigob i uses boro glass and 1.5 mm head spreader with silicon heater. it works very well. But be care full aluminum will expand 2 times of the boro glass. I used 10x10cm squares and used dubble side tape to stick these squares to the glass with 1mm spacing This is to avoid deformation of the glass when the alluminium is expanding more then the boro glass I'd be interested to see a few picby realthor - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Quoterealthor Quotedc42 Because silicone heaters don't heat very evenly Indeed that is a deal-breaker It's not a problem if you use an aluminum heat spreader between the heater and the glass. I'm not sure that PCB bed heaters are any better in general. I meant deal-breaker for the silicone-to-glass sandwich I was thinking about. Now if that aluminum heat spreader has to be Mic6 6mmby realthor - Reprappers
Now that I think of it it is really stupid that they sell by standard sizes because they must have rolls of hundreds of meters and by cutting to the wildest values they end up anyways with little scrap, while the customers usually waste much more. So if the designer of the 3D printer doesn't account for that, there can be substantial loss especially if you buy the steel reinforced belt, which isby realthor - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 Because silicone heaters don't heat very evenly Indeed that is a deal-breakerby realthor - Reprappers
So why would glass backed by a silicone heater behave in such a way that we get the thermal images like d_d posted?by realthor - Reprappers
I have never considered to dimension the belt routing to achieve standard lengths... that's a nice tip. Am calculating it as we speak With rods and most other stuff we can get the lengths we require but with belts I don't think to have seen vendors that cut it to length and keep the same price. I may be mistaken of course. Edit: well, I wasn't as lucky as you ... attached...by realthor - CoreXY Machines
That's some departure from your initial design. It's interesting to see your development going at such an alert peace ... (as opposed to my mostly digital endeavor - I am so slow with actually building anything ) Now let's see the real thing...by realthor - CoreXY Machines
That bed support arrangement looks so familiar (my SCOUTcorexy concept) I like the simplicity of the rollers on the frame... they were criticized, demonized, then you see their adoption skyrocketing on kits and individual builds.by realthor - Reprappers
If the plan is to use glass on top of the aluminum you might end up in the same situation with the uneven heat spread in the picture. That nicer alu picture is without glass ontop, just aluminum. Is it the properties of the molten glass which solidifies with random crystals that make it behave so poorly with distributing heat? I think I understand that it's an insulator but why those random areaby realthor - Reprappers
Quotelkcl Quotethe_digital_dentist Each of your frame's joints is free to rotate. You hope to prevent it by adding the third member to the joint, but I don't know if that's going to provide the rigidity needed. realthor and i argued this back and forth in an entertaining way for what... a week? eventually we concluded that yes, amazingly, the triple join does actually create rigidity. it's tby realthor - CoreXY Machines