Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Got a picture or thingiverse link of what you are > printing? > > I bet we can come up with a solution This: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:39776 (here is a render: http://www.thingiverse.com/image:77905) and it is part of this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11447. Thanks, Andyby ajayre - General
Thanks. The block is perfect in size and shape up until the last two layers where the solid infill is. Should I adjust the infill thickness in some way? Thicker or thinnner? Andyby ajayre - General
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can use a "Brim" to help minimize this > warping. However when my part popped off it was large, very thin and almost completely filled with the infill of the first three layers. So it was already like a massive brim itself. I don't see how added even more surface area would help. Instead I think it is a temperby ajayre - General
The image shows a PLA 20cm x 10cm block with 0.3mm layers. The sides turned out great I am really happy with them - no blobs or defects. However on the top there are two problems: - the corners are raised up - the infill is not completely solid between the filament lines and is a little bit "blobby" where it meets the perimeters How can I improve the print quality to obtain a flat top?by ajayre - General
I went back and looked a bit more closely at my small parts and I noticed that they are shaped a bit like the Eiffel Tower - instead of being the same width at all heights, it is slightly largest at the first layer and smallest at the last layer. I have a minimum 15 sec layer time in Slic3r. I understand that a cooling fan can fix this but perhaps it is related to the problem of my large parts pby ajayre - General
I'll give that a try however I've now printed several different parts, some of them multiple times, all using gcode to control the temperature at the start and all print without problems, so I think it is related to that one design for some reason. Andyby ajayre - General
I initially tried printing small objects (4cm width/height) in PLA on glass at 60C and observed warping. I then reduced the temperature to 55C and the warping went away. Based on advice I read somewhere I changed to printing the first layer at 55C and the reducing the heatbed to 45C for the rest of the layers. Still no warping. Now I've tried to print a larger part - 8cm by 14cm and by the timeby ajayre - General
Yes because this morning I've printed three calibration blocks plus my wife's name on a plinth without problems. Maybe it is a bug in Marlin? Andyby ajayre - General
I am trying Slic3r for the first time and a test part (a L-shaped bracket) printed out very nicely. Now I am on to something a bit more complicated. Both times that I have tried to print the part the hotend temperature has started dropping half way through printing the first layer. Both times it happened at the same point. I don't understand why. I am using Marlin 1.0.1 RRP, pronterface and Sliby ajayre - General
Thanks for the help! I'll try Kapton tape first then print a herringbone gear set. Andyby ajayre - General
I'm in the process of building my RepRapPro Mendel and I've noticed that the extruder has backlash because the nut does not fit tightly into the center of the large gear. Is this something critical that will wreck any chance of decent prints and should be fixed before using the printer? I hope not because I'm not sure how to rectify it without a working printer to print a better gear. Thanks,by ajayre - General
Dark Alchemist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you had one laying around then I say go for it > but honestly for a RepRap it should be overkill > because water cooling is for parts (CPU/Automobile > engines/etc...) that get extremely hot and if your > stepper is getting so hot you really need water > cooling step away from the machine and turnby ajayre - General
Using an external RAM device for buffering instead of an SD card would be quick enough... Is sending gcode over USB really much of a problem? Or does only affect Windows-based PCs? Andyby ajayre - General
If writing to the card is very slow then I don't think the card can be used as a buffer. Thanks for the explanations! Andyby ajayre - General
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I understand that gcode can come from the serial connection or the SD card. I also understand that there is anecdotal evidence that it is more reliable for the controller firmware to execute the gcode from the SD card. Do any of the available firmware options support reading gcode in from the serial connection and writing it to the SD card and then execute it fby ajayre - General
What is the purpose of putting a PTFE cone around the nozzle? Thanks, Andy http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Reprappro-huxley-hotend-finshed.jpgby ajayre - General
ajayre Wrote: > them (I've cleaned it, replaced battery, etc.). Already tried that. I've obtained a set of Mitutoyo digital calipers off ebay. Thanks for responding! Andyby ajayre - Reprappers
Thanks! Yes, I know Harbor Freight but it doesn't exist in the UK unfortunately. Good recommendation for others though! Andyby ajayre - Reprappers
I'm looking for digital calipers to help me with my build and calibration (UK). I bought a highly rated set from Amazon that almost everybody likes and... well... they are rubbish. Constantly introducing errors making it impossible to use them (I've cleaned it, replaced battery, etc.). Perhaps a defective set. Looking around at other low cost digital calipers I suspect they are all made in the sby ajayre - Reprappers
I don't have much knowledge of mechanical engineering so I was wondering if there is a website somewhere that describes techniques for joining plastic parts together? What I am looking for are methods of creating longer spans and beams from smaller ones that is strong but doesn't require nuts, bolts, screws, etc. Maybe some way of snapping together or interlocking tabs or slots? I'm sure this pby ajayre - General
I understand that ABS and PLA can be painted with acrylic paints. It is possible to apply varnish such as urethane after painting? Is it possible to apply coloured epoxy inlays? Or use some other type of inlaying material? Thanks, Andyby ajayre - General