I'm going to try and print it tonight. Thanks Markby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
How much would it cost me to get a SS tube with a 3mm bore? Disclaimer: I'm clueless, So don't think there is anything smart to follow. I'm currently using a Huxley style hotend on my Smartrap. It's worked pretty good so far. It uses a 3mm bore in which you insert a 3mm OD 2mm ID PTFE Tube into. I'd like to try that here.by madmike8 - For Sale
Looks very nice Mark. Very well thought out. I can't wait till I'm able to print it. I'm going to print R4C3R's Airtripper/Smartrap plates tonight.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
The original design supports the Z rods at the top and the bottom of the stepper motors. Do you think your design is strong enough to hold the Z rods stable?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
So, your getting rid of the servo for the new servo less system? I'm definitely interested in the jhead lite mount. Glad you got the screws. They returned it first time, so I loaded it up with stamps this time lol...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Don't be sorry Serge, you've got a great little printer. It's easy to build, and with your preset Marlin and Slicer files it easy to get printing. Thanks! I'm very happy with my first printer. I'm not sure if the belts are necessary, I'm not very good working with the fishing line. The belts are pretty easy to setup though. Now, I'm going to work on building another Smartrap! This time with a Jby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I'm not sure, I was going to print the one that has the airtripper extruder built in sometime next week.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I'm finishing out my spool, So I printed the Zombie Hunter scaled down to 20%.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Mine is basically a mash up of these two. Smartrap GT2 Upgrade Smartrap Improvements I used all 623zz bearing and M3x25 screws and M3 nuts and washers. I printed out the part that snaps into where the switch went from the GT2 Upgrade one and just screwed a couple 623zz bearings on top. I used a piece of scrap plastic to mount the limit switch under it, but you could also print the end piece thaby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Actually. Just the swap to the belts.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I switch to belts. It's a pretty easy upgrade. It made a big difference. I kinda did a Mashup up the two different GT2 Belt upgrades out there. I used the 623zz bearings and 20T Pulley. I use .9 degree steppers so My setting in Marlin was 160. If you use 1.8 degree steppers it would be 80.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Hope this helps for a Smartrap reference. I did upgrade from the fishing line to GT2 Belts.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I did the GT2 Belt upgrade tonight. It Prints so much better. I wish my iPad took better pictures.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
So, are you using PLA without any oil lubricant? Or with?by madmike8 - For Sale
Did the Teflon baking sheet washer help at all?by madmike8 - For Sale
Mark, thanks for the video. The Axis seem to move free enough when the fishing line isn't binding on itself. For the most part my small prints are acceptable, but larger prints seem to slip. I guess slowing down the travel speed may help? Not sure, but I'll keep tinkering...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
How is your J-Head lite doing after improvements?by madmike8 - For Sale
I'm getting slipping with the fishing line, and at other times binding. It might be that I'm using 50lb Test Braided Spectra line (Which is what I can get locally) or that I suck at tieing the stuff... I'm going to try the conversion over to GT2 Belts when the parts get here. I'm going to try this one Smartrap Mini - Improvements in the X and Y axis It looks simple enough that I think I can pulby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Seems that I read that you can get away with a 12v 5A PS, but I'm using an old XBox 360 PS I had laying around.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Hmmm... Well Configuration.h and Pins.h I'll go through tomorrow and figure out exactly what changes. I made so many, try something, work/no work, switch it back changes that I'm not sure what's in the final version. I'll compare to the default file and post my differences. Most of the threads that popped up in google said to move the endstop, but that isn't really an option on a Smartrap. Froby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Noticed that mine was printing mirrored on the Y axis. Wow, that took a while to figure out. Inverting the axis was the easy part, but getting the endstop to function correctly was a pain. Well crash course into Marlin, LOL. I finally got it figured out though. If anyone runs into it I can share my Marlin files.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I bought them from Zorotools on ebay. PM me your address, and I'll see if I can mail them to you. BTW good to know about the Jhead-lite. I was planning to use one on my second build. I know I read where someone was using one on theirs on thingiverse... I'll have to search them out and find what they did. Then again, I think the earlier versions of Smartrap had a longer Servo/Probe arm. That mayby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Yeah, The knock was created by me having turned the power too high for the stepper. I had adjusted it higher trying to figure out why the filament wouldn't feed. I turned the power back down till it quit knocking. I then loosened the screws for the bearing a hair and it still wasn't feeding. So, then I turned the machine around to where I was facing the extruder. That's when I noticed that the smby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Well, I got my offset set. I got the filament loaded and started my first print. Failed a couple times, but I managed to get a good print. After that I started having extruder problems where the stepper motor was knocking. It got worse if I turned the power up, and it wouldn't push the filament to the hotend. I'll have to figure out what's up with that now. I'm pretty happy though!by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
This is what's on my plate tonight after work. R4C3R, posted up a nice little walk through on Thingiverse, so I'm quoteing him here. QuoteR4C3R I used Pronterface to do the calibration, I can easily manually move the axis and send the G-Code commands. What I did was: M555 Z0 (reset the offset to zero) Do a homing Mark the spot on the bed where the Z-probe touched Move the nozzle manually to thby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I ordered the Huxley off Ebay from seller tech3d-org. They are located in the UK, but shipping time was reasonable. When I get this one up and running, I plan to build another a J head. As far as I can tell it's just a couple M3 screws to hold the J head. I'm not sure of the required length though. I'll try to get an idea when I get home. You would also need whatever is required to set the J heaby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Progress... I had read somewhere that Serge had wired his endstops NO and COM, so that's how I wired mine. I used M119 to determine all the Endstops were "Triggered" when the button was not pressed. That was wrong. Today I rewired them to the proper NC and COM, and M119 shows them as "Open" until pressed. Now the machine Homes correctly. So, I need to set the angle for the servo arm for the probby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I'm new to 3D printing, and I'm going to use this thread to document my build / experience, and provide the information I've learned for others. Smartrap BOM As best as I can tell this is my complete List of parts used in my Smartrap build. • SmartRap Printed Parts • 4x Nema17 Stepper Motors • 1x Arduino Mega 2560 (Marlin Firmware from Smartrap Github) • 1x RAMPS 1.4 • 4x 4988 Stepper Driverby madmike8 - Smart_Rap