Bushings would go in place of the lm8uu bearings, what cad are you using?by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
If your not opposed to using pla bushings or cleaning up the bearing holes I have an extra set I'd be willing to send you. Funny you mention the maker slide, I was thinking about modding for the x axis myself. If not using beam rotating the x axis to a horizontal position.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Nice score. Just placed my order hopefully I'll have the chimera by weeks end!by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
MEH, so it definately does what I set out to do with it, makes them adjustable and holds them pretty much vertical but the larger one has to be so much higher up it tends to want to move in the Y axis depending on pressure from the bowden and wiring, that and for some reason when i printed this last set the m3 holes for the screws were a tad larger so the threads didnt bite as well and the lastby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Hope these helpby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
As of current design yes they need to be tapped, Yet another thing I am in the progress of reworkingby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Hey Jerry, Would you mind getting close up pics of the front and back of your X carriage... thinking of maybe making a front and back mount. Hotend to the front. Laser to the back. I can do that...front will be easy...back might be a bit difficult and i have my sensor back there but give me a bit and I will post em up for you...im at 60mm spacing on mine tooby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Not sure how the inductive sensor will be effected, although that could easily be solved by going with a capacitive proximity sensor.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
As for the lube, should work but what I am using is Lubriplate No 105 from Napa Auto Parts, also known as white grease. You might even have a bad lm8auu, it happens. I just happened to have a 10oz tube laying around so thats what I have been using. As for the belts, yes the lower belt should start at "front left" and end at "Rear Right" Upper belt should start at "Front Right" and end at "Leftby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Get me some demensions I'll have a go at it If ya haven't heard...Autodesk 360 Fusion is now free, its pretty awesome. I've been playing around with it a bit this weekend and got to say I am really liking it. Whats even better you can send your files to a slicer of your choosing from the 3D Print menu. And you can import images to a work plane for tracing or building a model around, its so eby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
I was thinking about printed plates with neodymium mags embedded for quick change....just a thought.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Welcome to the Core club 1. Yes there are some videos see this link Smartfriendz Youtube Channel 2. Yes they need to be mirrored. Your really want to generate a build plate on the youmagine link and break those parts out, if you just view individual parts and try to download the stl you wont get all the parts right. I used cura to just save each axis parts as seperate stl "plates" 3. Yes theby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Yeah the stl's are pretty much old news on github, I plan on soon updating my fork with all my stl's just havent gotten around to it. Also TBH I am just using the smartrap firmware with corexy enabled and everthing else adjusted as needed, bed leveling locations, added extruders, my modified pins and configuration_adv files...so well I guess its not soo much stock anymore but still has m555 forby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
HOTEND UPDATE: Ok so like I said I was going to do some mods, had a bit of free time today so I jumped on it, Upon disassemble it became evident that A) my heatbreak was not going to be able to bored out to accept even a partial liner, it was never finished machining, there was a ring where boring from each side was never completed so broke out a # 48 drill bit, fired up the press and cleanedby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb That hot end works great so far. As a test, I tried printing a small part at 80ms with a 90ms feed rate for PLA and it came out pretty good. Just some minor defects. I normally print at 20ms, slow but parts come out beautiful. Nice work on the beefed up Z axis parts. How are you attaching the M8 threaded rod to the motor shaft being that the diameters are different? I was thiby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Wow, life has thrown me some curve balls the last few days and been very busy, so sorry for the late replies. As for the Hotend, I plan on following some similar ideas as your linked video RCJoseB, I wish my heatbreak had a liner lol. But I will try some of the polishing techniques to see if that helps if not I plan on modifying the heatsink/heatbreak as follows... Drill neumatic fitting to aby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
On another note, the purple is a sample from Q3D, its been pretty nice actually, not sure If I like it more then the hatchbox stuff I've used but its not to bad.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
the j-head does the new all metals do not, the are bored at about 2mm. I was thinking bout trying to bore them out to 4mm to allow the bowden to go down to the heatbreak. Funny thing is its the smaller of the 2 that is giving me the most problems, the larger(first one I got) has been working pretty well, only had a couple jams with it and they were only when I was trying to change out filamentby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
So close.... So far..... Never again will I buy an all metal knock off, not even 3hrs on it and I've cleared more heat creep swollen pla jams then I ever had to with my cheap China j-head....uggby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye That's a pretty good idea for adjusting the height on each hotend, I like that. Thanks Regpye, been tossing around ideas in my head for a week on this, finally settled on this one, once I have it fully assembled i will post some pics, but seems pretty solid. Can't really tell in the images but there is a recess in the top of the bracket for adjustment screw to rest in to help keepby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye Quotemadmike8 Ideas for adjustable dual hotend... Link1 Link2 Should be able to use the Genie MK1 hotends with this setup too. Or I could just try thisby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
The other option you have is play with the build volume in the "wall and rod size" section to get an idea of the "over Build" size, I know we discussed it earlier in this thread but I am thinking x is like 55 over and y is 30, I might have that wrong but I think you get the idea. The threaded Z is broken on youmagine I have uploaded a heavy duty z to youmagine that I am using now, works prettyby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
So because I am thinking of upgrading, what is everyone running for control boards these days? My Ramps 1.4/Mega combo have served me well until I tried 1/32 micro stepping. Now I must have lol. So time for any upgrade, I really like the features of the replicape/beagle bone black and the smoothieboard with software current settings but the price point of the Ramps-FD/Due combo have got me intby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Glad I could finally pay forward all the help I've gotten in this group. Happy printingby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
So actually I need to correct myself, m114 is the location according to travel since last home / initialization. So if say your at 15mm reset the printer and call m114 it will tell you 0, Home it and it should say 0 again...or at least the probe difference, Hopefully someone will chime in that might understand it a little better then I do. But I believe that to be the case. At anyrate once youby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
FWIW, I had a lot of trouble with this when I first started too, took me a long time to get the feel for a good first layer, it will come in time, try not to get too frustrated.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Yeah I don't even bother with the m114, unless you set g92 z0 before you start going down, m114 will pump out the distance its traveled since the printer was initialized. I just remember how many times I have to press my down value...i.e. my z offset is 2.7mm I press down 1mm twice and down .1 7 times to get the paper to grab, or down .1 27 times to give me 2.7mm. Then its m555 z2.7 m500 theby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Well your close, First lets get this out of the way...pick either the m555 or the z-offset in the host software...not both. I always just use the m555 and thats it. My method to set Probe height is as follows Run G28 X0 Y0 Then I G1 X100 Y100 (Replace the xy cooridinates for your bed center) G30 ( this will probe the bed 1 time) after the bed is probed I start lowering the axis by either 1mmby djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
Calibration coming along, Yoda printed at 150micron layer.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap
It does, I was kinda thinking of integrating the mount to the bearing clamps and splitting it on the x z plane then just having them screw together, but your method would offer a tensioner of sorts too. The problem is the belt clamps limit travel inward if that makes sense.by djinn5150 - Smart_Rap