This is my repstrap Monkey Shit Fight....enjoy!by Peterthinks - Look what I made!
It's a nylon fiber reinforced rubber belt. There won't be any teeth coming off it. I use the same drive system on the Y platform which is very heavy and also has a heat bed and a sheet of glass on it. It shows no sign of slipping. I'm not a fan of the friction pulley. You always know where a fixed tooth is in relation to a fixed point but a bit of string that can stretch or wiggle up or down theby Peterthinks - Developers
I've posted some videos of my new RepStrap. I eliminated all threaded rods and associated hardware, all belt loops and tensioners, all connection parts for the rods as well. It's fully adjustable to square the frame up and make everything true. The frame is the base and just 8 other parts. I plan to get that down to 5 parts with the redesign but for now I just want it to print so I'm leaving it aby Peterthinks - Developers
A little update...for the two people who read this every five months. I canceled my Rigidbot. I actually ordered enough stuff that I had all the parts to make one from scratch. So I've made a repstrap from wood. I also lowered the part count dramatically! I'm just waiting on a hot end and I'll be up and printing. Everything else is all hooked up and calibrated. When I'm able to print I'll make soby Peterthinks - Calgary
I had the same problem, I threw this extruder together in an hour or two using random bits I had lying around. Instead of an air fitting I just threaded a hex nut over the tube and cut a V in the end so it can get close to the bearing and gear. The gear is supposed to drive a belt but till I get something better it will have to do. Use the smallest gear you got so it has more torque. If it can'tby Peterthinks - Developers
And don't forget the wire for the temperature probe. You could skip the heated bed wiring and heat the underside of the bed with an infrared heater. You just need to keep the area clear of cables and wiring under the turn table.by Peterthinks - Reprappers
But swinging the arm means you have to stop the arm. If you are determined to use a swinging arm take a look at a hard drive reader arm and consider scaling it up.by Peterthinks - Reprappers
Taking a look at the drawing again I see that if the arm just moves in and out instead of back and forth it will still do the same job. It would be easier to program too, no arc to deal with on the arm.by Peterthinks - Reprappers
Gearing..... You can make it as heavy as you want if you gear it like an extruder head. Stepper drives a big gear, big gear has a small gear sharing that axel. Small gear drives your bed's belt. You lose speed but gain resolution and print quality. If time is not an issue then neither is weight, and quality goes up by a factor of ten.by Peterthinks - Reprappers
I just read something about a "shielded" USB cable clearing up some communication problems. And solder in the S1 or short it out with a jumper...wish I could help moreby Peterthinks - Reprappers
I like it but the design is inherently less accurate compared to an axis that moves side to side between two pillars. That arm will have some mass, it will wiggle. I'd make the head move back and forth between two pillars and keep the turn table, a heated pad would be a pain to wire in. I'm more concerned with low part count and simplicity but I do see why this keeps you up at night. I still loveby Peterthinks - Reprappers
The front of a stove....seriously, I'm going to the recycle yard here in Strathmore Alberta tomorrow and I'm going to yank the glass out of five or six dead stoves. The recycle depot employees wont care, there are always scavengers there. For the cost of a can of oven cleaner and an hour of my time I can easily get five decent plates of high temp glass. I cant believe I ever considered paying forby Peterthinks - Reprappers
I clean off the LMU8 bearing to remove the oil, slide two bearings onto the shaft, line them up on the underside of the platform and glue them down with CA glue. I surround the bearing with sections of popsicle stick and add more CA glue. Then I mix up some epoxy and drool a blob of it over the bearing. Easy! By the way my platform is a section of 6 mm thick laminate flooring. I asked to buy oneby Peterthinks - Developers
Soooo close! I think Makibox will deliver. I poked around looking at the design and I am impressed. Not an unnecessary part to be seen. No compromise on what has to be in it. All drive rods, no floppy belts, no backlash problems, light weight carriages so less inertia to fight that could produce shake. I'd get one myself if I didn't have a Rigidbot on the way in December. Perhaps I will get one..by Peterthinks - General
I have a Rigidbot coming to me....in December, gahhhh have to wait for the kickstarter thing. Looks like a good product. Even with a few rolls of plastic, heated bed, LCD and SD I'm getting a 10x10x10 inch 3D printer for about $500. It's a kit but I wouldn't have it any other way. I've also started ordering motors, electronics and rods, first thing on my list is another printer. I'm consideringby Peterthinks - Calgary
You can go to the dollar store and pick up a photograph frame. just make sure it is glass and not plastic.by Peterthinks - Calgary
Oops! just noticed the soldering. I don't think I have the steady hands for thatby Peterthinks - For Sale