This is Sprinter, correct?by TheCase - Idaho RUG
Definitely reduce the feed speed - maybe even down to 25. Have you tried different host software, just to see if something else reacts differently to the same G-Code?by TheCase - Idaho RUG
The datasheet for my stepper lists the shaft diameter at 4.5mmby TheCase - General
Yow! Them's steep! I think I am about to answer my own question. I'll post and I think I'll let the links cook on the boards here for a bit before I execute the purchase: Pulley: http://www.mcmaster.com/#1375k35/=eymoph Belt: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/1043/=eymdd7 Kinda wish they were urethane instead of neoprene, though. Seems to me that neoprene is more prone to break down oby TheCase - General
With potential tooth details being as small as they are, I'd prefer aluminum. Perhaps once I get my printer fitted with the T2.5 stuff, I'd be able to print such items with confidenceby TheCase - General
Yeah - I may be one of the first that want to try T2.5, but I would have imagined a few others besides Prusa himself have installed these, and could post what they got and what has worked for them. There are many options out there - I just wanted to make sure my first order would be dimensions that worked for the N17 steppers.by TheCase - General
Yes, but he is in the UK and the part offers no dimensions other than it being 16 tooth.by TheCase - General
Ok, so back on topic. Is there anyone using the T2.5 pulleys? If so, what did you get, where did you get them. Anyone?by TheCase - General
Ok, so the source doesn't matter (but thank you for another source). I'm in the USA. I'm really looking for the dimensions of the pulleys that will work with the NEMA 17s (ID, OD, Width), as well as the belt width.by TheCase - General
I'm interested in replacing the T5 belts with T2.5 belts and aluminum pulleys. Does anyone have the exact dimensions or part# I should get from McMaster-Carr?by TheCase - General
Sounds like you might need to adjust the pots on your stepper drivers?by TheCase - Idaho RUG
Andy, f you're looking for a good one, for a decent price: But... I have the same one, I'll bring it to the next meeting.by TheCase - Idaho RUG
it should be formatted as FAT. Not sure, but I have always had the card inserted and ready on board power up That's all I can offer at the moment. Make sure you have the latest version of printrun.by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
http://groups.google.com/group/idaho-reprap-user-groupby TheCase - Idaho RUG
50 mm/s! Looks like I'll have to stop spending my time printing prusa parts and get back to calibrating for higher speeds! Seriously though, glad to hear you are printing!by TheCase - Idaho RUG
The bottom of the two layers of cardboard that I currently use are barely warm to the touch - not quite sure its worth dropping close to $20 on something else.by TheCase - General
Anyone else have thoughts on the glass? I'd figure it makes for a flat-as-flat-can-be platform - but I do have my worries about how well it will hold the heat compared to the aluminum alone.by TheCase - General
The PCB does have a layer mask, so I'd hope that its electrically isolated... sounds like I could probably get away without the heat sink compound though - might be overkill. Heat does rise, after all. Oh, and I'm not Nelsonby TheCase - General
Not sure what firmware you are using... but Sprinter has the M92 command, allowing you to define the steps per mm in GCode so you don't have to reflash until you've figured out what works for you.by TheCase - General
You should be able to visualize any missed steps, as the movement of the filament would not be smooth. Based on what you say here, my gut tells me the firmware is not being successfully re-flashed with each config change... In my personal experience, I find it easiest to remove the hot-end when performing these calculations - you didn't mention if you did or not here, but wanted to throw thatby TheCase - General
So I was lucky enough to receive two sheets of 2mm thick aluminum plate and was thinking about rebuilding my PCB (prusa's) heated bed. I've also got some 4000F degree capable glass sheets that I'd like to use (since I did buy them and would hate for them to go to waste). Here's the idea, from the top, down: glass 2mm aluminum heated PCB 3mm corrugated cardboard 3mm corrugated cardboard 2mm aluby TheCase - General
Dave Durant Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Searching thingiverse.com for usgs comes up with > some possible hits. > in > particular has instructions that look like they > might work.. Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!by TheCase - General
My buddy is an avid white water rafter, and I thought it would be a good idea to print him out a 3D representation the river and valley surrounding his favorite run on the Salmon River in Idaho. I'm sure there is some open source software somewhere that will eventually allow me to construct a STL file... Searches have come up with data sets, but no tools to manipulate the data. Anyone have exby TheCase - General
$80, shipping varies, depending on destination Frost's Wade's accessible extruder, with 10 tooth T5 pulleys. Built in and shipped from USAby TheCase - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
The heat bed is the prusa PCB (red), so no resistors. 1.3a board. The power supply is a conventional PC power supply - 12amps on the +12v side. I put a Kill-a-Watt between the power supply and the wall socket - that's how I can see its only drawing about 2.7amps. I'm using the same gauge wire as the 12v leads that power a PC hard drive. I suppose I could go thicker on those - now that I thinby TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
I've been certainly taking more than giving at this point... and I just wanted to throw a big THANK YOU to the helpers on this forum. Thanks for taking the time to help out others (like me) that are interested in or building their own printers. Without you I would never have a working reprap - plain and simple! My girl is now producing parts for others to build their own machines. From here oby TheCase - General
Everything is sorted out. Now printing my first child in ABS. Everything is nice and smooth now that I re-homed my Z.by TheCase - General
I'm talking about a heated bed. Not the hot end. The hot end heats up fine and quick (but I'd imagine that's because its about 300 times less as large of a surface area) I'll look into software (using Sprinter), but I have my doubts. I've got a rather large heatsink on the Bed side mosfet and that thing gets crazy burn-your-finger-if-you-touch-it hot. I should add that I've been using a 12amby TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
No matter what amperage power supply I use (I'm using ATX, PC power supplies), I can't seem to get the sang board to draw more than 2.5 amps when heating both the bed and the tip. The heated bed takes _forever_ (like 20-30 minutes) to get to 120C (and hold it) for ABS. I have no problem adding a relay and pulling directly from the 12v on the power supply for the heated bed - but I'm kinda stuby TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
Wow. One of the bearings is cutting a groove in the smooth rod.by TheCase - General Mendel Topics