A Quick Update: So, I had a Eureka! moment the other day after reading through the gcode file for the above model re-compiled verbosely. I realised that about 10 lines above the lock up, the fan is turned on. I then checked my gcode files everywhere that they have locked up for the same fan turn on (M106 Sxxx) and lo and behold, every single time it crashes is about 10 lines after a fan-turn-onby LarsIslander - Huxley
SOLVED! See the other thread here: My solution was a bit hacky, but hopefully it will help anyone else who has a similar problem. I can't edit the title of this thread, if appropriate, can a mod' change the title to solved or merge this with the linked thread? Cheers all, - Larsby LarsIslander - Huxley
Hi All, I have an interesting problem with my Hux. I recently re-built the hot end, and during testing last night got some really good prints in ABS. This morning however, the last 10 prints I have done ahve all failed mid-print with teh same simptoms; The printer becomes totaly un-responsice, the print cannot be paused or cancled in Pronterface No temprature data is being sent back to the PCby LarsIslander - Huxley
Just a quick update to let you know that the above worked ok!by LarsIslander - Huxley
Hi all, just a quick update on my progress with fixing the hot-end. While I'm ordering some replacement MOSFETs, I am currently trying to modify my Marlin firmware to use the FAN output (pin 4) instead of the HOT END output (pin 13). I'm not having much luck. The pin is only defined once, and I've swapped the two values, compiled and then uploaded to the board. Monitoring the voltage on theseby LarsIslander - Huxley
OK, here's what I've found on my Huxley: The hot end (resistor disconnected so it does not burn out) has 19.3v across it (measured on the screw terminal) as soon as the printer power supply is turned on. With the power off, there is continuity between the source and the drain on the hotend MOSFET. With the power off, I confirmed that the top of the SD card housing has continuity to ground, soby LarsIslander - Huxley
Inquisitor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My nichrome wire heater is still working fine > though. It will happily do a 6 hour print. My temporary nichrome heater was wire and capton tape wrapped around the block, and was only intended to work once as I'd blown my last resistor. I really like your way of constructing a nichrome heater, I will raid the hardwby LarsIslander - Huxley
Hi, I have the same issue as Nimal, and I suspect that it is the MOSFET that has been damaged. I have started another thread (see link), but maybe it could be merged into here instead. - Larsby LarsIslander - Huxley
Hi Guys, I have got a weird problem with my Huxley that I have had now for about a moth but not had the time to look into it, so the printer has been on the shelf. I am using Melzi v2 electronics. When I plug the Huxley into the mains, the heating element (I have both a standard Huxley resistor and a nichrome winding hot end) goes full power. If the power is not cut within 20-30 seconds the hoby LarsIslander - Huxley
OK, quick update, disabling the support material seems to have done the trick. The part in the photos only half-printed, as the spool got jammed, but it's enough to see the first layers are well attached and there are no skipped layers. Image 1 Image 2by LarsIslander - Slic3r
Hi Radius, Printing PLA, I have been running my bed at 90 because of the cold weather the past few months with great results. In Slic3r, I have kept the temperature settings the same, and monitoring the printer during prints I have confirmed that the bed temperature is staying at 90 for the entire print. I think the root of this problem is because the Gcode coming out of Slic3r is leaving emptyby LarsIslander - Slic3r
Hi Guys, I've been trying out Slic3r this evening, and it's much faster and nicer to use than Skineforge. I'm getting one problem though, which has been consistent - the bottom 5-10 layers are warped on all prints. Picture As you can see in the pic, the bottom layer is well printed. After this, the rest of the layers have warped in. I've looked at the g-code in the pronterface viewer, andby LarsIslander - Slic3r
Well that was quick. Unfortunately, this does not address the problem in this thread, but I managed to get my Melzi board talking again using Arduino 1.03, with these sanguino drivers HERE. Additionally, this would not compile (as mentioned above.) This was due to some duplicate declarations in the Arduino.h and pins_ardiono.h files in the above drivers. I commented these out, compiled, uploadby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi Cameron & Tony, Got exactly the same problem here. Using Arduino 0023, sanguino1284p tools downloaded from github. I have tried a few different versions of arduino, including 1.03 and a custom 0017 that was supposed to have been configured to avoid the above problem (which will not compile the drivers.) As a bit of background, I think have bricked my Melzi after my ATS power supply bby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Thanks Karlburg, I will try that. I hope that it's this, and not physical damage to the board After reading jackrocker418's thread about not being able to connect, I had planned to check to see of the arduino IDE could connect to it. Thanks everyone for reading, I'll update this when I get any progress (or lack there-of). Cheers, - Larsby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi All, A few days ago my ATX power supply I have been powering my Huxley went bang. I took a look inside, and the over-current resistor on the mains side had blown. The PSU was about 10 years old, had not been used for about 5 years before around 2 days of working fine at the weekend. I think that it may have been knocked while transporting it back to my place at the weekend. I now cant connecby LarsIslander - Reprappers
I've thought on it over night, and I think that reversing the motor wiring and moving the limit switch to the oposite end of the x axis will be the equivelent to taking the entire axis out and rotating it 180. Im going to have to wait untill the weekend, but I'll update in how that worked out.by LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi All, I have finaly got my Huxley printing reliably, however last night i noticed something really odd - my X axis is reversed. I printed a case for my raspberry pi, and when I came to fit the board, I realised the print was mirrored. I reqlly dont want to tear down and flip the X axis assembaly so soon after I have it working well. Is there any way to set skeinforge to mirror on X so I gby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi Again All, I have egg on my face, the issue was in the soldering of the pins onto the heat-bed board. One of the pins looked like it had a good connection, but the solder pad had broken off under the joint. I just re-soldered everything and i'm getting a reading of 24 degrees c. Cheers for your help, at least I now know how to update and modify the firmware - Larsby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi All, Sorry for no updates on this, I'v been away from town for a few weeks on business. I now have the printer commissioned, and have printed some test cubes. My latest attempt has been to print out some new extruder gears. However, even with a huge raft, these warp on the un-heated bed, so my mission is to get this working. I have taken apart the bed to check the thermistor. There is no maby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Ahhh, thanks for the directions Logrod. I'll check that and see how it goes. I've been going through the code on github every time I get a few minutes. Unfortunately I only have internet access at work, and Huxley access at home, so getting advice from the forums is a bit like snail-mail for me Hehe, the town apparently has some of the best fibre broadband in the UK, but my apartment block mby LarsIslander - Reprappers
My apartments getting cold but it's not that bad. I am using the firmware supplied out of the box. How do I check the version of this, or check the thermistor table is correct? UPDATE: in the firmware (Marlin, from ), in configuration.h I have found there are the following settings for the Huxley Bed: #ifdef REPRAPPRO_HUXLEY // VISHAY BC COMPONENTS - NTCS0603E3104FXT #define BED_BETA 4100.0by LarsIslander - Reprappers
Dear Reprappers, I am part-way through commissioning my Huxley, and have come across an odd problem with the heatbed. this always reads -40c (+/-1c) in pronterface. I have checked the wiring, and even swapped the leads around going into the BTEMP, with no change. What would be the best way to go about debugging this? What information do I need to get? Thanks, I cant wait to get printing, - Lby LarsIslander - Reprappers
Hi Jaramaniac, Thanks, that would be cool. I'm still a month or two away from being able to print my own parts yet I mocked up the part using LightWave. I think there is an stl export, but I've never tried it. I'll have to convert it, or re-draw it in CAD. I have access to ProE, which does export STL as far as I know. As soon as I have a file, I can upload it. I also had a think about thisby LarsIslander - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi RepRap Forums! This is my first post, so go easy on me I've just ordered the hardware for a RepRap Huxley, and have been designing parts for my first project - Bulkhead fittings with drain covers for my new hydroponics growbeds. I have attached a render of the design. The smaller part on the right is glued onto a 40mm ABS drain pipe, and is inserted through a hole in the bottom of the growby LarsIslander - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)