Confirmed: Indeed cooling fixed the curling problem. Also, I noticed the x-axis belt was getting more slack than it used to be, causing slipping to occur much more easily. I tightened the belt, added cooling and now my problems are fixed.by roady001 - Printing
I have the same problem and I also have a Huxley. My problem seems to happen because some parts seem to get much higher then they should; see attached picture to see what I mean. I have tried different temperatures but nothing helped. This is PLA b.t.w.. Might this be the same problem as OP?by roady001 - Printing
I have the exact same problem with my Huxley. I did find out why it happens, you might check for the same: It seems that sometimes layers are uneven (bulging at some points) and the hotend scrapes through this causing a temporary block/jam of the movement. I'm opening a new topic about this, because it might be totally unrelated to your problem, just with the same end result.by roady001 - Printing
To follow up: reprapro has replaced my PSU and all is well since then Indeed I have been dealing with a faulty PSU...by roady001 - Huxley
Phuzzy Logic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > roady - > > In your original question, you asked if 6A was > enough, and I am saying that it most likely is not > enough. You may have damaged your power supply by > overloading it. -Phuzzy That might very well be true. Thank you for your view on this. I have submitted an email to reprappro anby roady001 - Huxley
Phuzzy Logic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > roady - > That being said, I am assuming that you are > printing PLA, which does not require a heated bed. > You could likely print PLA all day with the > heated bed set at 0 degrees (off) and plain > masking tape on the printbed. I have been using blue tape before, which is indeed very capable ofby roady001 - Huxley
I've had my Huxley 3D printer for a few months now, most of the time giving very good output. Lately however I have this issue with the power-supply overheating. This happens when I print something very large. After > 2 hours printing, the buildup of heat is just to much which causes the power-supply to shut-down completely leaving my Huxley without power. After cooling down, the power-supplyby roady001 - Huxley
I got the colored acrylic from bouwplastics.nl (The Netherlands). But I suggest to just look for them on-line, there are lots of suppliers. For the rest of the materials I surprisingly stumbled upon an on-line pet-shop. I suggest you do the same, there are lots of people making custom made cages for there animals and therefore these pet-shops have all the materials you need to make a nice alumiby roady001 - Look what I made!
I got inspiration from here and created my own enclosure for the Huxley. See attached pictures! Below the first level, there is a spindle horizontally oriented and attached to a self-created and printed cylinder bearing. So no more ugly spindles in sight (as opposed to the picture, sorry for that...).by roady001 - Look what I made!
Looks really good! What nozzle diameter have you been using?by roady001 - Look what I made!
Quotewaitaki The first layer has no infill, its a solid layer - is that what you are referring to? I'm sorry for the confusion and yes indeed that is what I meant; the first solid layer. QuoteSound Personally, I set the First Layer Speed option to 30mm/s ... regardless of things being perimeter, infill or anything else That is exactly the thing I wanted to avoid. I have tried many different filby roady001 - Slic3r
That parameter is for every layer. The issue I am facing is that I need to fine-tune the speed of perimeters and infill separately for the first layer, but I can't find any way to do that. The 'solid infill' you are referring to is for all layers, not just the first layer. There is however a speed adjustment for the first layer as a whole, but that also would speed up the perimeters and I can'tby roady001 - Slic3r
With some filament, mostly black PLA in my experience, the first layer infill gets distorted. I think this is because of the slow(er) movement of the hot end. This black filament does need the slow speed for the first layer perimeters to get a good stick, just not for the infill. Subsequent layers do get a good print for infill, partial infill and perimeters. Is there any setting I overlooked inby roady001 - Slic3r