So it looks like it was probably a combination of all of your suggestions. I ended up just taking the whole thing apart and re-assembling with a bit of lock-tite on all of the nuts, and proper lube on all of the axes (white lithium for smooth rods, graphite aka. a 8B pencil for the Z threaded rods). After that the issue seems to have pretty much resolved itself, I can get much closer to proper leby devonv - Reprappers
Thanks for all of the suggestions! So I tried pretty much everything suggested here. I lowered the Z home speed and Z acceleration, tightened the end stop mount, checked the Z couplers, all to no avail. So far as I can tell everything is tightened up, but I'm seriously considering taking it all apart and re-assembling with threadlocker like Azrael_UK said. The one thing I am noticing is some biby devonv - Reprappers
Hi everyone, After a bit of a hiatus, I'm trying to get my reprap running again. Right now I'm having issues with leveling my print bed. The print bed is a heated bed + piece of glass covered in blue tape. Printer is an i2 so no upper build plate, just heated bed sitting on the pen springs. When following the leveling guide on the wiki, I run into the issue where I can't seem to get even the fby devonv - Reprappers
I'm finally getting close on having a fully functional printer. I can print objects now, but am not getting optimal results. When printing infill or extruding large amount in air (>10mm), the extruder makes a clunking noise and stops extruding for a small amount of time. This is obvious in the infill as there are a lot of broken lines of filament. I have tried just about everything I can thby devonv - Printing
Thanks for the reply! I'm using the stock Prusa Z couplers right now, planning on printing a few of nophead's couplers ASAP. And no, the ends of the threaded rods are not restrained. Can you recommend a thing for restraining them? Looks like I screwed up along the way and set my nozzle diameter in slic3r to 0.5mm instead of 0.3mm. I'll try fixing that and see if I get a more solid fill that wayby devonv - Printing
Whoops, forgot to include some specs: Prusa Mendel Mix G1 Extruder 1.75mm PLA 0.3mm Nozzle 0.2mm layer height 190°C 55°C heated bed with glass and blue tape I also made sure my belts were tight and pulley set screws were tight as well.by devonv - Printing
I attempted to print a companion cube (specifically this one). It turned out decently considering it was my 2nd print after some initial calibration. The issue is that the faces of the cube that are perpendicular to the X axis look great (image 1), but the 2 faces perpendicular to the Y axis are significantly less detailed (image 2). Another issue is the sort of open lattice pattern on the topby devonv - Printing
You are correct, changing my layer height to 0.2mm fixed the issue completely! Thanks!!by devonv - Printing
I'm trying to calibrate my printer using a 0.5mm thin wall (from here). When printing, the first few layers go great, but then it seems like the nozzle gets up too high and somewhere along the line the plastic doesn't hit the layer it needs to adhere too, turning it into a tangled birds nest of plastic. Some specs: Prusa Mendel Mix G1 Extruder 1.75mm PLA 0.3mm Nozzle 0.4mm layer height 190°C 5by devonv - Printing
Turns out part of my problem may have been improperly installed heatsinks on my pololus. A combination of rotating those and using new firmware (sprinter downloaded from here (click the link for the prusa version)) solved my problems! Thumbs up to Mixshop for their amazing support, sent them back the electronics, they adjusted the heatsinks, tested the board, and sent me them back (expedited posby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
I'm liking it, but a lot of that is because it's new and shiny I think, I like new shiny technology. There's certainly some quirks though, like jumping through hoops to install unsigned drivers.by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
I also had trouble installing the Arduino driver in Windows 8. The way I got around it is by disabling driver signature enforcement. You can do this by doing the follow: 1. Open the "Advanced Startup Options" app by hitting the windows key, typing Advanced Startup, click Settings on the right and click Advanced Startup Options 2. Scroll to the bottom and click "Restart Now" under Advanced Startuby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
From the suggestion of SeeMeCNC on the IRC channel, I measured the output to the motor pins in X with Marlin and jogging X in Pronterface and I see that all 4 pins are consistently at 12V. Doing the same measurement in Y with the same driver, I get a change from 12V to 0V and back to 12V for each movement. SeeMeCNC suggested it's probably a bad RAMPS board. Any suggestions to the contrary wouldby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Cefiar, I checked the Configuration.h file and I'm using the follow: Motherboard: 33 X_ENABLE_ON = 0 DISABLE_X = FALSE Which are all the same settings as I'm using for Y.by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
So I did some testing as per the RAMPS troubleshooting page linked above, and these are the results: Setup: Marlin firmware and Pronterface for control. Step 1: Only connected hot end thermistor, Y motor driver and Y motor, then measured the following: VMOT: 12V VDD: 5V EN: Started off at 5V, then once I told it to step, it switched to low and stayed there DIR: Changed from 0V to 5V dependingby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Turns out the strange Z behavior was due to a crappy solder job on one of the pins on the Z motor driver. So I now have full motion in Y and Z, but nothing in X or extruder. I'm going to try shuffling the drivers around again and see if maybe they're bad after all. I will also test the 2 drivers that aren't working based on the troubleshooting instructions on this page. I'm hoping it is just a drby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
I've been very careful not to touch anything while it's plugged in. I suspect it's not anything to do with blown drivers since swapping the drivers around still doesn't move anything but the Y axis.by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
I turned the pots all the way counter clockwise, then a quarter turn back clockwise. Is that what you mean?by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Z was always this way. Initially I was just testing using X to make sure I didn't lose all motors in case something happened. Once X didn't work, I moved it to Y, so Z wasn't initially tested.by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Switched the X stepstick to the Y position and the Y axis still moves and the X won't. Seems like the drivers are fine. Also, I plugged in all of the motors and only the Y moves. The X and extruder motors don't do anything, and the Z motors make a humming noise but don't move.by devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Hi everyone, I am hooking up my motors and endstops to my RAMPS 1.4 board to test them out using the test firmware on the wiki, and I'm having issues with my X axis. Plugging my motor into the X axis port causes my motor to not move at all. I then moved the motor and plugged it into the Y axis port, and it works fine. I thought it might be a motor driver issue, so I swapped out the X and Y axby devonv - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, I'm in the process of building my Prusa and am a little confused about the assembly of the Y axis for Prusa 2. It's my understanding that there is only one print plate for iteration 2. If this is the case, how do I attach the belt for the Y axis? Would I attach the belt as usual on the wooden plate, and then mount my heated print bed above that? The documentation on the wiki for Prusa 2 stiby devonv - Reprappers