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Printing issues ...
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It's been 5 months since I have stopped by, to see if anything has changed with Slic3r, but unfortunately nothing has changed...
Unbelievable... as the clueless beat of an unusable slicer continues.
Sorry to see all of you still wasting your time, life and plastic.
FYI... KISSLICER is alive and well, and currently under development. BEST slicer available.
Hope my experience helps you... enjo
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Instantly can tell from your pictures your using garbage slicing software...
Time to get a clue...
Hope my experience helps you... enjoy Happy Printing !
Shawn
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25+ Years Experience as a Manufacturing Engineer and New Product Developer
Three Years Experience... Printing 6-8 hours
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Personally I think a lot of these initial firmware acceleration values in most firmware packages were meant to impress, display and showcase the speed capabilities of the machine/printer itself, and not necessarily turning the machine in to a workable 3d printer that produces reliable quality prints.
Print FAST (and with high firmware acceleration & jerk values) throw the print in the garbage
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Ditto with gmh39...
It's funny week after week, month after month over the last three years...
I read about people with "moisture problems" with their filament (many specifically mentioning using PLA Filament). AND LAUGH !
You have something else going wrong with your printer, slicing, and prints, and it's NOT Moisture in your PLA Filament, so please stop blaming humidity for any printing issue
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ShawnT98027
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General
Thanks for the input...
Yes, tired of trying to remember to open skeinforge produced gcode and insert a M109 before hitting the print button.
Once in a while I have to use skeinforge for certain aspects/geometry that skeinforge does better than KISSLicer (i.e. eliminating internal support, bridging, etc.).
I typically use KISSlicer for all my prints and it automatically puts in a M109 on produ
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ShawnT98027
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Skeinforge
Just stopped by for a visit... and I see nothing has changed with Slic3r... BUGS, Bugs, bugs and MORE BUGS !
Have a quick glance at the Slic3r Forum... OUT OF CONTROL BUG LIST
Slic3r... Out of Control bug list, time to get a clue...
Same buggy-as software, same typical posters chasing their tails around, looking for workarounds, producing sub-par prints and wasting their life away printing with
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Skeinforge v50... How to export gcode with M109 instead of M104.
Pain in the butt with skeinforge only exporting M104 in the gcode...
If you forget, and don't preset your temp and wait for it to reach set temp in pronterface/printrun first, before hitting the print button, then skeinforge produced gcode using only M104 will start the print below desired temp (as it is not waiting for temp to be
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ShawnT98027
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Skeinforge
Hello Waitaki,
You can speak to me directly (and not around me).
BTW... Quantity of posts does not equal quality of content, nor is an indicator of any knowledge beyond keyboard usage.
My 25+ years as indicated in my signature is accurate, I am proud of it, and won't deny my experience and expertise for any serial blogger or thread poster, or lesser educated or experienced individual.
Three t
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Paucus...
Nothing to do with any "file"... just poorly written software, why don't you get a clue.
Can't circumvent crappy slicing software... by posting a file for the clueless to comment on.
Why are you using Slic3r?... support your position with an intelligent set of reasons.
Shawn
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
FYI...
I bought my PEEK stock to make my own replacements from McMaster Carr
You can also buy PEEK stock to make your own replacements off of Amazon.com
Hope this helps you... enjoy Happy Printing !
Shawn
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
25+ Years Experience as a Manufacturing Engineer and New Product Developer
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ShawnT98027
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General
The original MK7 were on Makerbot Thing-O-Matic, hence MK for Maker.
Can't beat the original designer and maker of these flawless stainless steel MK7 filament drivers, Made In The USA. I have gone through 100+ kg spools, never a slip, grind or showing any wear whatsoever.
Buy the originals, and never look back.
MakerBot Orginal MK7
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ShawnT98027
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General
QuoteSublime
That was the work around for a similar bug in version 0.7.2b which was fixed many many many many versions ago. I guess Slic3rs bugs never really go away they just go dormant for a few releases before being brought back with new bugs. When you get tired of the bugs I recommend Cura or Kisslicer or Skeinforge or Sfact
I agree with the above... and it's a fact !
OMG people, when are y
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Hello TopherMan,
Personally I think a lot of these initial firmware acceleration values in most firmware packages were meant to impress, display and showcase the speed capabilities of the machine/printer itself, and not necessarily turning the machine in to a workable 3d printer that produces reliable quality prints.
Print FAST (and with high firmware acceleration & jerk values) throw the pr
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Hello gilsah,
Just a thought... It looks like you have a repetitive pattern of both over and under extrusion/flow rate.
Hopefully your not using an archaic hobbed bolt filament driver in your extruder... and your are using a precision MK7 Filament Driver (Quality Made in the USA).
In reference to a filament driver that is eccentric to it's rotational axis... If your filament driver/hobbed bolt
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
QuoteSublime
... but it could be you need to change your firmware acceleration and jerk settings.
Absolutely agree with the above... REDUCE your acceleration & jerk values in your firmware to reasonable real world values.
Personally I think a lot of these initial firmware acceleration values in most firmware packages were meant to impress, display and showcase the speed capabilities of the m
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Quotesniporbob
I initially struggled with the decision to print ABS or PLA. I ended up deciding on ABS because it actually seemed more people were having issues with PLA than ABS. Maybe that perception was incorrect...?
Yes, your above perception is incorrect... PLA right off the top is easier to print with, doesn't stress many extruder hot ends and print beds with higher print temperatures, eas
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
QuoteNewPerfection
Most heated beds have the thermistor located under the heating element rather than on top of the glass. This means that the glass temperature is usually a fair bit lower than the thermistor is reading. Although it does appear in his picture that the thermistor is touching the bottom of the glass, I would not be surprised if it does still read higher than the temperature of the
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Hello Repper,
Your answer can be found here... Slic3r... Out of Control bug list, time to get a clue...
Set yourself free... then enjoy Happy Printing !
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Quoteamrbekhit
- I've tried printing with the heated bed set to 65, 70 and 75 degrees.
...couple of photos illustrating the phenomenon
Hello amrbekhit,
No phenomenon here, your bed is just too hot !
I have been printing hi-res PLA parts for 3 years now on a heated glass bed @60c.
(accurate temp verified by external direct contact probe on heated glass; not relying on thermistor placement or
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Hello bilsch,
Well I see a lot of views on your post, with no one chiming in, so I will give you my take...
Interesting print pictures (quite an assortment of perimeter print defects)... It looks like Infill pattern types on your perimeter side walls, with the diagonal lines, crossed diagonal lines/rectilinear lines, honeycomb, and archimedean-cord patterns etc. on the perimeter wall sides of
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Quotekfootball15
Thank you so much!!
I was able to find the problem and you were right! A faulty solder joint that was hidden by some shrink wrap.
Thanks so much Shawn!
EXCELLENT !... glad I could be of help.
Best Regards & Happy Printing !
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ShawnT98027
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General
QuoteTo begin with, you cannot get less than 0.4 mm resolution with a 0.4 mm tip
Sorry jameson...The above is not correct...
I print 6-8 hours 5 days a week, use a .35mm nozzle tip and print at 0.1mm Layer Height Resolution and maintain tolerance of +-0.05mm for all dimensions (except having slightly smaller hole I.D.s).
_________________
Floyd, if your machine is perfectly calibrated, perha
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Quote
kfootball15
I agree with Shawn above about PID tuning. It cannot be the problem as this printer was working perfectly fine a few days ago.
I am new to this for sure, but I did do a continuity test with a VOM and it seemed fine, but I re-soldered the connection just to be sure.
I just unplugged the thermistors from the electronics completely, and the temps STILL fluctuate rapidly (just at
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ShawnT98027
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General
QuoteWhat are the negative sides of overheated heatbed?
For PLA, if you exceed 65c...
Your first layer will actually blister and create areas in your first layer that are no longer stuck to the bed. Next layer (2nd layer) will scrape the blistering and can actually dislodge your print from the bed.
Typically 55c - 60c is perfect.
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
If your printer is a new build, with a un-adulterated Marlin firmware installed, you still should not have to mess with PID Tuning.
ALL Marlin firmware versions released that I have ran over the last two years, have always been able to maintain +-1c. So PID Turning/fiddling is not necessary.
My approach given to your temp issue, is direct and specific, in this reprap community the assumption se
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ShawnT98027
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General
Marlin on Gen 6.
Your problem has happened to me about 3x over the last two years of printing 6-8 hours daily. Caused by excessive usage, cold solder joints on the PCB, PCB connectors not properly manufactured or insulated, and or stress/strain/breakage in the wiring.
I have had this same problem going on for a couple of weeks now... Again .
While printing... the temp jumps wildly way above my
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ShawnT98027
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General
Reading this forums threads...
So it looks like the same ol' thing...
1.0.RCx versions continue the Slic3r legacy of MASSIVE BUGS, and producing sub-standard and often unusable prints.
______
When should one get a clue ?...
And move on to a better slicer, print quality objects, stop the endless blogging/threads about buggy-as software and most of all recoup your life.
As an end user (as most
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Sublime has it right too... why anybody would recommend Slic3r to anybody is beyond me.
These users recommending Slic3r probably they have not spent the time to really differentiate between the slicers or have lower standards when it come to print quality.
_______
So here's my little copy and paste rant on using a competent slicer...
Have a quick glance at the Slic3r Forum...
Nothing more than
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ShawnT98027
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Printing
Hi jbernardis.
Yes it is a shame that both the developers of Skeinforge and KISSlicer, have stopped development or just vanished off the face of the planet.
And your right, all the current slicers available all have their own pros and cons. With my extensive experience using Slic3r and Skeinforge, and in the last year KISSlicer, KISSlicer just has way less cons, and does everything better and
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
Hi jbernardis
FYI... WTH are you talking about.
I also payed for it with hundred of hours of time, and hundreds of dollars worth of plastic.
My Family also payed for it, by my absence fiddling with the garbage.
Believe it, I PAYED for it big time, life lost and never to be replaced.
OBTW... Early on... I DID Pay for it (Slic3r) via PayPal donation.
Get a clue, and you may get your life ba
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ShawnT98027
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Slic3r
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