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Printing issues ...
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QuoteWes78
not stick glue... the glue that you squeeze out from a bottle
Personally I use the disappearing Elmers glue stick. The so called "purple elmers"
Works great and easy to apply since it's stick form. Cleans fairly easily with rubbing alchohol. Although I have a glass bed so that would make a difference.
amazon.com
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78
Ahhh OK thanks for the tip
How about this one ?
So you haven't even gotten the printer yet? Why don't you just try it with the current hotend? I mean the mk8 is no e3d but its not bad either. I get fine results with it.
If I was going to get a e3d a would probably just get the full one. If I am doing an upgrade like that I would want to be able to use hotter temperatures f
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78
What mods did you do to your bed?
I've seen a few on here such as change to a bigger gauge wire and insulating underside of the bed
No changes to the wiring, it was working decently fine already. I was having trouble getting to 110 bed temp in an acceptable amount of time, so I insulated the underside of the bed with a cork board and sheet of aluminum foil. Worked great. I believe
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMarty77
Like I said - its for me also my first 3D printer - and I think for that price quite ok and really does some nice decent prints - I expected a lot worse
Exactly. First 3d printer, expected worse, but pleasantly surprised it works pretty well. The biggest thing for me we just making sure you diligently calibrate all the axis. Most important the z-axis and the extruder steps. Nex
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX
I actually just broke down and ordered an mk3 bed I'm going to swap over to the 3 point leveling, run the 12v line off a dedicated 24v supply with an ssr, and put the glass on top. The new bed being an integrated aluminum plate will solve the sensor issue as well.
cool. good luck!
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX
The sensor I have is an 8MM type, I have a glass plate but I'm not sure if the sensor will detect the aluminum even through the 3mm glass, I'm thinking of picking up some sheet metal as an underlayment, which should sense just fine. My plate is not THAT warped so I have been getting along ok with a 9 point autolevel.
Well then I think 16point would be a bit overkill.
Yeah you r
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX
Also I think I'm going to try and make the 18MM bed sensor mount a bit as it is too far away from the nozzle to get a 16 point auto level.
Any questions please feel free to ask
The only reason to do a 16 point autolevel is if you have a warped metal bed. I had one, it was painful. Even 16 point wasn't working all that well. Save yourself the agony and get a quality glass plate
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
So in Simplyfy3D, I can get the printer to home X Y but not Z (I have the Sensor).
I tried to print, but nothing really happens.
So far that is where I am stuck and frustrated
My printer is connected to COM3 and 25000 Baud rate
ALSO it says my temperature is 357 degrees, however, its not, its not even ON!
I only print from an SD card. Less issues. Try that. You can also tr
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
Ugh, I am alittle lost in what you said above. Can I trouble you to break it down.
Do I need to install any new firmware? If so, how is it done? (Using what came with it)
So since my Z axis doesnt zero where the stopper would be, how can I exactly center it or set a zero point to be centered?
Sorry for the questions, I just want this thing setup and ready to follow for atlea
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
Good to know Gator.
With that setting in there, like the screenshot I attached. If I set that, does it home to 0? Just curious how that functions or works. I am currently at work, so cant do a live test but just wanted to get a sense of the behavior I should expect.
depends on your firmware. I would just try printing something when you are ready. If its offcenter the easiest t
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
See attached, that is the screenshot of some code I seem to need to put in the gcode. However I am not sure how to make this work with Simplfy3D.
yes that is available in simplify3d. just go under the scripts tab. there is a start code section.
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
Can you show me an example of this adjustable bracket? I have the one that more or less, attaches to the extruder assembly.
Do I need to add any code to simplfy3D? I noticed I am not able to use JOG controls in it.
This one is for the little green block sensor that they ship with it. I cleaned up a version of this bracket so that it worked with a different length of screw, cle
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIronsights
1. Without the Z stopper, how does that Axis home? Did I skip over instructions?
1.The Z stopper and the leveling sensor do the same thing, it plugs into the same port on the board. So you use either the mechanical end stop OR the auto-leveling sensor.
2. The sensor that came with the kit is pretty basic. There was no calibration with it. If you have an adjustable one, aweo
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekissfan4
If it was the board, wouldn't it do it everytime? I just got home and gave it another try, extruded 30mm of filament with no problem, started a print, it started almost immediately and the screen is a jumbled again
Oh ok. I didn't read that it was ok some of the time. Have you tried printing from just an SD card? SD card is way more stable and no communication issues.
Quoteki
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
I suppose its possible it could be firmware, but honestly I don't think firmware just stops working unless the whole board gave out. Since it works on the x-axis we know the motor works. It's possible the E0 stepper on the board gave out (a fuse possibly, or something else). The mks board has a second extruder stepper connection for dual extruders. I would try plugging in the extruder motor t
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCanadian Geek
For those of you with a heat plate under the aluminum bed and added a glass bed to it, did you remove the aluminum one and place the glass right on top of the heat plate or did you put the glass on top of the aluminum?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Yes, removed the aluminum. Figured it would take longer to heat with both. I have now added cork/aluminum foil combo below. Heats up
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser
I wonder if their Dark As Glass is opaque black.
I guess not the best time to order from them. So apparently their 20% labor day sale caused them to sell 800+ spools in no time, now they are backed up. Sent a message out to customers saying they are working 12hr shifts to get caught back up.
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gatorNic
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General
makergeeks just started producing there own PETG, they are US based, reasonably priced at 24.95 Don't have a ton of PETG options yet, but they seem to add more new stuff all the time.
makergeeks
I have some on order (there was a 20% off Labor Day sale) so I haven't used it yet, but I have had good luck with their ABS and free shipping.
Only downside is THIS time they didn't ship my order im
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gatorNic
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General
Yakuza do you have a different type of auto level probe than it came with? I mean the number here would be greatly out of wack:
// these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 5
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.7
Technically that means your probe is almost on top of your ext
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekareem613
Here are voltages with the heatbed on and off.
Heat bed off
1. PS voltage: 10.8V
2. Board Connector 10.8V
3. Heat bed Connector: 0V
Heat bed on
1. PS voltage: 8.89V
2. Board Connector 8.89V
3. Heat bed Connector: 7.54V
I'm guessing this means I have a shoddy power supply. Is that right?
Well I would like to see a test of just the power supply nothing hooked up at all. Mean
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekareem613
I can't get the hotend to heat up past around 165. When I remove the fan duct it gets up to the 185 I asked it to.
It appears the fan duct is actually aiming at the hotend instead of below it.
There doesn't seem to be a way to adjust it.
Had anybody else encountered this?
I think you should check your voltages. Hotend should easily and quickly go well beyond that fan or not. H
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYakuza
what size print area do you have?
Auto home will bring all the Axis to the end stop locations which are just off the build plate. when you move the axis's then it will jump to zero. Zero in this case is the corner of the plate, if its not there youll want to measure how much its off by and adjust this in the firmware under the configuration.h tab #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS -5
#defin
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteansisl
on my other i3 I used cork layer ~3mm and alu foil
Wow what a difference. Did a project this weekend of putting a y-belt tensioner Thingverse I printed on, as well as outfitting my heat panel with 1 sheet of cork board cut to size with an aluminum foil layer. I got it from Michael's craft (actually it was 50% when I went to the store) Cork Board
So much better times and now not o
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotew4rdaddy
I dont know about others but my migbot has pretty robust cables imho for the bed(maybe 2.0m2 or 2.5m2) but it still took ages (+1h) to reach 100c. Solution was to insulate the underside of the heatbed and before printing put something fireproof on the printbed so that the heat wont dissipate. I use a fire blanket folded, and remove it just before printing. Now its about 15-20min to
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejbehan
gatorNic, you rock!
Thanks for the advice, it worked like a charm. No separation of layers, no corner melting....awesome. Thanks for helping me over that little hurdle.245 C nozzle - 110 C bed and no fan.
Josh
Glad it worked! Since I think it was mainly the fan, you can even back the temperatures back down if you want, probably still work. Saves preheat time and energy. Up to you
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekareem613
Having some trouble with a brand new build. The electron 3D variant. All the instructions say migbot though.
When I turn it on, the extruder temp reports 358 and I get a MAXTEMP error.
I tried flashing the firmware from the 1st post in this thread and it still behaves the same. Thermistor is plugged in properly. I triple checked.
Any ideas on what I can try next?
How do I conf
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejbehan
gatorNic,
Tried again at 245 C and it's better but still had some separation of layers, makes sense about having no fan. I will give it another try tonight without fan. I haven't taken the temp inside my enclosure but I haven't had any warping since I started using it. My enclosure is just some 1/4" foam sheet (FFF foam from HD) taped together with aluminum tape used for duct work. I'
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejbehan
I will try a higher nozzle temp, I think I'm at 240 C already, will bump it up 5 C. I do have an enclosure in place and I've been using a bed temp of 110 C, lowering to 90 C after 1 mm. Are you doing anything with the cooling fan?
Thanks for your feedback.
Josh
I had talked to the manufacturer about their stated temp of 230-240 and going above. They said a temp increase even up t
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gatorNic
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Prusa i3 and variants
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