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Printing issues ...
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Quoteto-the-nth
Has anyone been successful in removing the adhesive backing and reattaching to a glass bed with 468MP?
I did. I used a ceran surface scraper / cooktop scraper to scrape off the rest of the adhesive, then I used a paper towel and acetone to wipe the surface clean. It worked perfectly.
I tried acetone, brake cleaner, PB blaster penetrating oil and isopropyl before, but these did
by
tody79
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General
Awesome!!!
This makes me want to own one.
by
tody79
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Printing
I would try to use the shaft of the drill as punch and carefully hammer the drill out in opposite direction. Put some oil on it so it can't seize. Wear safety glasses in case the drill crushes, it could be heat treated. If you have one, attach a piece of aluminium to whatever hammer you use. The nozzle should be placed on a rigid plate.
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tody79
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General
Could this be a FR4 built plate? This is what I use. The descriptions sound familiar to me. I treated it one time with 180 grid sand paper and it works like a charm for 6 months now with petg. I print 5 to 10 hours each week.
Cheers
David
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tody79
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General
I will put this solution in my toolbox. Thank you for sharing your experience !
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tody79
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Printing
Hi Frank, thank you very much for the details.
"1. The canards do generate lift.... this makes the canard design a little more efficient that the conventionally designed tailplane, which actual "lifts" downwards. But the main function of the canard or tailplane is to aerodynamically balance the aircraft lengthwise."
Yes, they do, but the lift is small compared to the lift generated by the main w
by
tody79
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General
The motor would be far back.
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tody79
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General
Yes, 1/3 to 1/4 sounds familiar to me. Pushing the weight back is easy on a rc plane
by
tody79
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General
This is a conventional canard layout. The canards will not significantly add lift. I think that the cog is in the rear. The lift is generated by the main wing, as usual. The canards just equalize the momentum. The motor could be in the rear with the battery in front. Cooling could be challenging.
It looks cool however
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tody79
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General
The canard layout with a pusher has some advantages and disadvantages. It will work as good as a conventional layout when build as a model aircraft. A turbine is not beneficial unless you fly fast. At low speed, the prop is more efficient.
It would be a nice model aircraft.
by
tody79
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General
Check the hotend when it is hot. Mine was snug when cold, but loose when hot.
by
tody79
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Printing
Fusion360 can handle solidworks parts. However it will translate the sldprt file into a solid part without the feature tree from solidworks.
Regards
David
by
tody79
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General
Hi.
If z settings are ok, then the culprit could be the driver or the board. This happened to me. The z steps were ok. But then sometimes the microstepping settings obviously changed. The travel of the z axis doubled or was 4 times as high as expected. Either midprint or from the start sometimes. I replaced the driver.
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tody79
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Printing
Yes. Genuine E3D v6.
I do not have any experience with other hotends.
by
tody79
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Printing
I had the very same problems.
Suddenly Z-Wobble appeared.
Changed the leadscrew, Changed the Z-Motor-Mount. Realigned. Releveled bed. Recalibrated Extrusion steps. Checked temperatures. Checked that everything is tight, including the hot-end.
and did not find the culprit. Until today.
I found out by accident that the heater block was loose when 200°C hot. (it was tight when cold!)
I retighten
by
tody79
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Printing