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Printing issues ...
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I don't know how to delete the post, I solved this hahaha
DID YOU KNOW THAT YOU HAD TO HAVE THE PRINTER PLUGGED IN TO BE ABLE TO HEAT IT? HAHAHAHA
I feel like such a stupid I forgot that I had unplugged it.
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cmzulian
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Printing
Hey, I need help again!
So I was printing and had to kill the print, the thing is that the fan turned off with the killing and I didn't realize until later. When I realized the top part of the extruder was hot and the filament jammed. So I turned the heat off, waited till it was cold and took the extractor off from the machine. The thing is that to un jam it I need to heat it. Because I can't ta
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Thanks JamesK,
I did that that you told me about changing the flow rate and its looks so much better!
Thanks a lot!
by
cmzulian
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Printing
JamesK, I did do that, but I'm not exactly sure if I got it totally right. It looks better than before, the sides looks good enough, but the top looks a little messy...
I think that I need to keep working on this..
Do you think that that top layer looks too bad?
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Thanks JamesK, I will try 0.2 thickness
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Hi guys!
Thanks for all your answer!
I don't know the difference between a drive and a board (I'm a fashion designer student, its a miracle that I had this thing build and "somewhat' working in four days ) The board is the thing where I plugged the cables maybe? I will put a picture if its change anything.
Well the matter with the cube: after I got half a cube that seemed kinda ok, I decided
by
cmzulian
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Printing
My board is the A4988.
The Z axis I have already calibrated, and the bed is leveled also. So I did what you suggested with a 400 steps/mm moved the axis 10mm and it moved 10mm, so I guess that is the extruder then...
The extruder thing, I'm trying to calibrate that, now, but, when I do the step of marking the 120 mm and then feeding 100mm, it's feeds more than the 120 mm, from what I get from
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cmzulian
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Printing
Thanks JamesK,
I have been trying since yesterday to solve this, I know that my screw lead is T8, but I don't know the microstepping, I tried with 400 steps/mm and 1:16 and the first few layers were good, but then the nozzle was starting to get into the previous print, so I guess that 400 steps/mm it's too low is there any way to know what my microstepping?
Tell your wife that I have a ton of
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Hello,
I'm having more problems.
I'm trying to set my prusa I3 running, but when I print a cube to test that everything is right its end up being a super long squared based tower.
I don't know what's wrong, but something is probably wrong with the Z axis, can someone help me?
I'm printing with PLA, at 210 Celsius.
The layer height on Slic3r is 0.3mm. But obviously that's not really working.
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Thank you ggherbaz for your replay. The extruction jam ended up being because I didn't know that I must always have my fan on while printing with PLA, that appears to be solved.
Now on the crazy printing I think that there is something wrong with my calibration or the marlin code, because I tried to test print a cube and what I'm getting is a tall tower, I think that the z axis move too much up
by
cmzulian
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Printing
That totally worked!!!
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! <3
by
cmzulian
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Reprappers
Hello, I need help with my printing, I have assembled a prusa i3 and while I was doing my test print, after the 1st few layers the printer started to move like creazy up in a circular pattern, so I pushed the stop button and forced it to stop.
Then when I tried to print again started extruding a really thin line of filament and after a few seconds the filament flow stopped.
Well I cleaned the e
by
cmzulian
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Printing
Ok, I think that i'm starting to understand what you are sayin.
I took pictures of the board, and in the back, there is a part that says contrast and there is a tiny little screw above, should I try to move that and see if its better?
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cmzulian
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Reprappers
Thanks the_digital_dentist, I don't really know anything about coding, what should I change or add to set the contrast adjustments? I tried to turn the scroll button but nothing appears, only the beep when I push down... If it needs changing of resistors or jumpers, its on the display part?
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cmzulian
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Reprappers
Thanks DUST!!
I didn't know that I had to home the axis, did that and now they move well in all directions and stops at the end stops
Now I tried to print a test cube with pla, the 1st few layers were square shaped. But then it went crazy and ended up circling up. Do this have to do with the firmware?
by
cmzulian
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello,
I'm trying to finish the assembling of my 3d printer, and can't seem to make the LCD screen work.
I uncommented this line:
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
but the lcd just light up all blue and doesn't show any writing on it. when I push the scroll button makes a beep, but it still doesn't show anything.
Can someone please help me with this?
The rest of the code for lcd is
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cmzulian
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Reprappers
QuoteDust
firstly "I connected the end stop in the pin NO, because that was what the instruction said, but I found that many connected it with the NC pin. Maybe this is the problem?"
It doesn’t actually matter as long as you sent the firmware to match. Most use NC as its less likely to falsely trigger and you notice if a wire come loose etc
secondly follow the following to setup your axis and e
by
cmzulian
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello, I finished assembling my 3d printer this morning, and have been trying to make it work, but the motors only move to one side when I try it with Repetier or Pronterface. I think that it something to do with the end stops, but even when it reaches one, it doesn't stop. I don't really know anything about coding. I loaded the marlin file that came with the printer but it doesn't work well.
I
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cmzulian
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Prusa i3 and variants