Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 31 — 60 of 71
12mm in all honesty over that small distance of movement would be overkill. 10mm is what you should go with along with some integrated leadscrew NEMA17s, can't go wrong with that IMO.
by
kburr
-
General
How many pins do you need per connector? Personally I use the 70066 series connectors from Molex. You can order them and their appropriate crimps from Digikey.
by
kburr
-
General
Nice way of changing your values, I really like it.
by
kburr
-
General
The way I figured out my theoretical extruder steps/mm was with this equation I attached as a picture. You must remember though that it is theoretical and that you most likely will have to tune it a little bit, but I found it worked very well as a base line for me.
by
kburr
-
General
That is very interesting, I've always noticed those facets on my gears thinking it might be nicer to get a higher resolution model to print from, just glad to see a good comparison.
I might have to give a try.
by
kburr
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
I recently finished the case and I really like the way it turned out. I didn't have any issues with warping as Sublime let me try out a bed coating that he personally uses and I must say that it helped a lot. I had to turn on supports for the upper pieces as the bearing holes would've proved annoying without them.
Attached I have the pictures of my printed case.
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
@goopyplastic
That z stage looks fantastic, glad to see you're utilizing the cable z setup. I'm thinking I will use that system as well with the printed case.
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
Here are the photos of the spools.
Hole ID is 38.3mm
Spool width is 80mm
Spool OD is 190mm
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
That's a really nice light setup. How well do you find it lights your build area?
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
After work today I can get you some pictures of the spools.
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
Hmm, I will take that into account. I've got my layer height set to 184 micron with the tantillus calculator and I have noticed an improvement in prints already.
The plastic I am using is the clear PLA from Tinkerine Studio, and I really love how it prints and how light shines through it. Going to add a lot of lighting effects.
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
Just recently I have been very interested in completing a printed case Tantillus, well more so recently with having a machine capable of actually printing all the parts. After seeing the printed case in person I have been ever more intrigued to do so.
Now I figure that I should start a thread on my progress as the build goes on. Any tips on doing the printed case would be much appreciated as wel
by
kburr
-
Tantillus
Those ferrules are meant to be crimped to the wire that leads away from the hotend and the wires coming from the thermistor. From what I've experienced in electronics they seem to be suggesting that you solder the wires whilst the ferrules are around the thermistor wires so you can bring them over the soldered connection and crimp/squeeze them over. Personally I would crimp them (as I have access
by
kburr
-
General
I've been noticing this on my prints as well. I recently finished my MM and found that the acceleration was way too high for my machine. I've also noticed that with my extruder in the quick release setup it is in it seems to wobble very minimally. What carriage/extruder combo are you running on your machine?
by
kburr
-
General
Well, I thank you for sticking with me for this brief time. It turns out there seemed to be some flux or something in one of the ribbon connectors, works great now, thanks
by
kburr
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
Yea, I can get into the menu by pressing the center button. The encoder left/right seems to only work when I turn it left and if I continue turning it left it seems to bounce between two positions while in the watch screen and sometimes it moves in the menu screen one position down.
by
kburr
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
Currently I am having a lot of issue trying to get my encoder to work with my RRD Smart Controller on my RAMPS 1.4 board. I can push the center click, but I cannot scroll through the whole menu selecting anything else. Attached are my configuration.h and pins.h files. Maybe someone can see if there is something wrong there.
Thanks,
Kurtis
by
kburr
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have 14 red colored RAMPS 1.4 boards that I had got made by an ISO 9000:2008 company that I had intended to populate. But as of now it has become difficult for me to finish this project.
I am asking ~$25 CAD per board but am willing to work out a deal.
Please PM me if interested.
Thanks,
Kurtis
by
kburr
-
For Sale
I've seen the actual http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/pages/tooldetail.aspx?pid=4486]dremel chuck work for very small bits. Might be worth looking into
by
kburr
-
General
It was indeed a lot of fun at Maker Faire! Met a lot of cool people that I hope to connect with at our bi-monthly meetings.
by
kburr
-
Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
It's someones rendition on a hobbed bolt so to speak, but with more grab.
"Hyena" Bolt
by
kburr
-
General
We should start a kickstarter or indiegogo for this guys campaign to fund a machine for him
by
kburr
-
General
I would much rather have a Tantillus next to me at my desk over my ToM! Awesome work Brad!
by
kburr
-
General
Awesome, I got all the parts I need (minus the display). I've had these hammond project boxes that I got as samples just lying around and I thought it would be a good idea to have the "control panel" tethered to the machine via a cable.
I will take a good look at those ebay postings as I have a need for a few more 16x4s later on... and maybe the stock pile of 16x2s can grow larger ><
Than
by
kburr
-
Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123