Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Hi,
Some of my filaments have irregular diameters (some of them are more than 2 years old, so that can be expected). This variability is a source for uneven extrusion, so I am interested in filament width sensors. I haven't been able to find a link for commercial ones except this link. Do you have experience with that device or any other commercially available ones?
Thanks.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Is there a step-by-step guide to enable volumetric extrusion on the web? I get confused on which are the exact steps to follow.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
So it isn't more accurate, but more convenient, altough I am not sure if that's really useful as you might have to change other parameters including printing speed, infill density, retractions, etc when changing filaments, so you would have to reslice it probably. That could work with PLA and ABS, as they would probably have similar characteristics (except temperatures).
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Good question What I do might seem illogical, but I have problems with my estep calibration. I measure it exactly how it is described in the calibration guide, I get a value, but when I measure it again another day, I get a different value and those values change between 715-755. This is a very large spectrum so I was wondering if something is overriding my measurements.. To check this, I am app
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
I am experimenting to see the effect of changing E steps on my prints. I lowered the E steps value form 745 (the calibrated value) to 685 and interestingly I only see very minor differences in the amount of extrusion. I expected to see gaps between filament lines when I was underextruding but I didn't. I'll upload some pictures when I have access to my printer but I was wondering if there
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
I am trying to figure out the volumetric extrusion option present in Marlin firmware. My understanding is that the firmware calculates the volume of extruded plastic (in mm3) instead of the length (in mm). Is this method more accurate? What is the advantage? To use it, do you have to issue m200 command and also eneable it on the LCD menu or only 1 of them is enough?
Thanks.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
I didn't yet but I will check it. In the meantime, I am trying to print with Cura. It has the option to print infills before the perimeters, so the layer change happens when the printing head is over the infills, so any blob will theoretically form there and won't be visible on the outer surface. That's just theory of course, we will see if it works.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Not yet. Just to illustrate my problem, here is a link:
As you can see, in addition to those pimples, I've got a problem with the width of the extrusion in the beginning of the layer. It starts wider and this makes a discernible line, but after a few milimeters it reverts back to the normal width.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Got the same problem with the same software, trying what is recommended. Those settings with retraction, wipe and coasting are complicated!
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
My rods have arrived yesterday. I replaced my actual rods with them and also changed rod holders with metallic ones. The first problem is with the holders: They don't hold the rods, they just slide in and out with ease. I had to use some Kapton tape on top of the rods to prevent them from sliding. I still have problems with the parallelity of the entire system. While the bearings are moving easil
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
My leadscrews are too short and don't reach the top of the unit. I'd probaby need to design a piece to raise the motor. Then there is the problem on how to add a pulley to the leadscrew. There probably are GT2 pulleys with 8 mm bores which could be used for this purpose but I am not sure how you can fix it to a leadscew. Also, the leadscrew would need to be supported on the top part, otherwise t
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteMechaBits
Are you going to use 4 rails 2 each side, thats going to be quite expensive, load should be fine with four, the potential for twisting & stresses if leadscrews get out of sync.
That was my plan. And yes, it will be expensive, so that's why this is my back-up plan before I try other things, like changing rod holders from plastic to metal and fixing them to the upper and lower h
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks for the link for the M3 nuts, I wasn't sure those things existed
The aluminum extrusion with integrated rail is also a first for me! It is very logical but there might be some concerns on how straight it is. When I look at the picture, I can see that it isn't standing flat on its base, so probably not very straight.
You can see my Z axis elevator on the picture I've attached. I am plann
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks for the idea of aluminum or steel strip. I think that could be the ideal solution. It shouldn't be too hard to model it but the real problem would be to know where to source it. I don't have access to a mill and I haven't been able to find an online site where you can upload an STL file and they send you a milled version. I'd assume there would be services in China for that but haven't fou
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
So, it is probably similar to this link (of course, this is a cheap Chinese version, I don't mean to compare it quality-wise but only size-wise). I was also thinking about this size but a real problem to consider is the M3 holes. All of the T slot nuts I have seen are M4 or M5, so how would you be able to mount it on the extrusions?
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi,
I'd like to replace my plastic rod holders on the Y axis with metal ones, but the standard rod holder is too tall for this purpose (you can see that in the picture). Is there an alternative?
Thanks.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I am looking at linear rail systems and there are many rail sizes and car sized available. I was wondering which rail size would be the easiest to mount to a 2020 aluminium profile (mounting along the profile for the Z axis) . The car should be smaller than 27 mm wide to be able to fit.
Thanks.
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll order longer 8 mm rails and fix them to the upper amd lower extrusions. This could help me for the parallelity issue.
My leadscrew is 8 mm.
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi,
Maybe the stepper driver is applying too much voltage, this is a reason for noisy operation. Acceleration and jerk settings could also be a reason.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
I have solved the first axis problem (the first part in the video). The plastic part holding the pulley was being slightly bent under the pressure of the belt. I reprinted that part and this twisting is minimized now. The twist in the other axis seems to be due to the motor being slightly bent, again due to the belt pulling it. This is harder to solve, as the motor is being held by the plastic pa
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi. Thanks for the answer. I haven't seen longer lme8uu bearings, do you have a link online for that part? A problem with this approach would be to find a way to fix bearings in place (the bearings have grooves on their ends and a metal piece goes into that groove to stabilize the beating.
About the alignment tool, do you have an example?
Fixing the rods to upper and lower extrusions is a good
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi,
My actual printer setup has a problem with its vertical rods not being perfectly parallel. You can look at the picture to see how they look right now. I have 20x20 aluminum extrusion as chassis and plastic rod holders are used to attach 8 mm rods. A couple of Lme8UU bearings are used to link the rods to the Z carriage. A pololu motor with integrated leadscrew is used for controlling the hei
by
drmaestro
-
Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi,
I have added a youtube link to my GT2 belts in action (the Y and X axis are both in the same video). There seems to be a small twisting motion whenever the movement changes direction. Is this expected? Does it mean I have to make them tighter or do I have an alignement problem?
Here is the link:
Thanks
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Quotechris33
0n the pulley motors are the grub screws tight to a flat on the motor shaft?
Yes, they are. The motor that is controlling the X axis movement is pılle a little bit due to the tightness of the GT2 belt. This slight gradient forces the belt to the upper part of the pulley but it doesnt't miss a step.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
I've thought about changing the steps/mm rate but I mostly print in PLA. Does it shrink as much as ABS? Also I think there is another variable, which is the distance of the nozzle tip to the bed. While the layer height is 0,16 mm, I think it would be possible to print even if the nozzle is closer or a little bit far, which would result in flatter (and wider) or narrower prints. Would that distanc
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I am printing a 20 mm calibration cube and I measure 20,15 mm on both dimensions. I use a GT2 timing belt, 20 teeth pulleys, and the prusa calculator tells me to use 80 for XY steps. My extruder is calibrated. What can I change to correct this dimensional instability?
Thanks.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Fast movements of the extruder (especially when making infills) might shake the table the printer is on (what I mean by "shake" is if I put a glass of water on the table, I can see ripples forming). I don't see the printer vibrate or shake. I've reduced acceleration values so that my printer doesn't make sudden movements. I am not sure this would cause a similar problem, as it happens layer by la
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Temperature was 190 C, and the speed was 40 mm/sec.
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
I was wondering if there is an alternative to the printed parts in Reprap printers. I know that it is against the philosophy of the Reprap to introduce non self-replicable parts but would it be better to increase the build quality? I haven't seen any injection molded plastics being sold, even for the most popular designs, so I assume this option is very expensive somehow. I also haven't seen
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
There are a few forum discussions about the stability of the X carriage as a reason for uneven surface quality in Z direction. I was wondering if my X carriage is moving too much. Here are 2 links to 2 youtube videos I've uploaded:
In the first one, I am pushing the hotend with a long nosed pliers and in the second one I am using my hand to move (flex) the smooth rods. As you can see, th
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers