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Printing issues ...
Looks like your M305 commands in that screenshot have semicolons at the start of the line. Everything to the right of a semicolon is ignored (known as a comment). Remove those semicolons and try again
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Ormerod
Just looked at your config. Line 24 is incorrect. Your M305 for setting the hotend thermistor is not getting set, it's been backspaced onto the previous line and gets interpreted as a comment
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Ormerod
Some things to check:
Is T0 defined in config? Have you double checked that it's T0 and not another number? Does the thermistor temp show any number, and is that number correct and at a sensible value (I.e. close to the bed temperature at room temperature). Is the hotend connected to the Duet properly?
You don't need to select the tool to get a temperature reading; mine reads correctly when the
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Ormerod
When the nozzle grips the paper, how tight should it be? Is zero at the precise position that the nozzle starts to touch it?
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Ormerod
I swear I'm on a mission to encounter every possible Ormerod problem before I can successfully print something complex. I've installed yet another new thermistor onto the same hotend, and have ended up with another strange start to my prints.
I attempted to print something relatively simple - iamburny's Z Herringbone gears. However, the extruder doesn't seem to extrude fully, and I end up with "
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Ormerod
I worked this out over here. If you're following the same colours from RRP, this will work:
Orange/red = AD12
Yellow = GND
Blue = PC10
Green = 3V3
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Ormerod
AliExpress seems to still have the odd part. I just ordered some Bowden ends from it the other day
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Ormerod
I found the problem - the opposite of a short: a break in the thermistor wire! I plugged in the thermistor leads from my spare hotend and the temps are normal now.
Talk about bad luck, that's the second thermistor that's failed on me in just as many weeks! Can't wait for those spares to turn up from AliExpress
~0
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Ormerod
Another day, another problem...
Temperature just shows as "error". I haven't used the printer in a couple of days, and it was heating up just fine before I last shut it down. All I did was tighten up the nozzle! What could cause this?
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Ormerod
Hey @davek0974! I have a friend with a CNC machine, but he's told me the holes on the Y-end DXFs are too large for him to cut and I've been working on some modifications for him to try. They're incomplete (maybe?) but I'd be happy to share my work so far. We didn't actually manage cut this yet... he hadn't done metal before, and we nearly started a fire cutting it!
I have some X-arm DXF's as w
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Ormerod
Looks like @steve0uk made one recently!
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Ormerod
It's a pretty tight squeeze but the carriage will probably take the weight. Mine is holding up an E3D Volcano on the Cola mount pretty well:
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Ormerod
Not yet, but was planning to in the next few months. I haven't found a part to mount it to the X-carriage, can you share?
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Ormerod
I think I've had a bit of beginner's luck, and have not been able to re-print the orthogonal axis after setting the S556 command that I've worked out above. It's like it's not homing properly - my filament is not able to get initial contact with the bed and the print always fails on the first layer.
My print setup process goes something like this:
Home X Home Y Auto bed compensation Use @dmould
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Ormerod
Not sure, it came with my spare J-head!
I think I'm all sorted now, the thermistor is now showing the same temp as the bed at room temperature. The extremely high temperature was caused by a short in the thermistor wire.
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Ormerod
M4 TNuts were difficult to find locally. I ordered mine from AliExpress, a pack of 100 was less than $10 with free shipping
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Ormerod
Not sure what the fourth one is, but I know of three:
R: this changes the resistor value on the Duet board itself. RRP advised changing this to 4700 for newer Duet boards
T: used for changing the thermistor value. I use this on my heated bed, since it came with a 100K
B: beta parameter. I'm not sure when this would actually be used, but there's an equation that defines the relationship between r
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Ormerod
After some Googling, I noticed a relationship between temperature and resistance... as resistance decreases, temperature increases. So if the temperature appears to be infinitely high, the resistance is probably really really close to zero - like, when the thermistor wire is shorted out. Low and behold, the screw holding the thermistor in the hotend was tight enough to expose the copper and short
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Ormerod
...and apparently my hotend temperature is approximately the same as the surface of the sun. The bed temp is at the correct 20C though. I haven't made any config changes. What might cause this?
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Ormerod
Finally, after six months of building, testing, failing, and re-building, I finally managed to get my orthogonal axis printed! It's done in ABS with a Volcano nozzle, so I had to tweak the bed/hotend temps in the GCode to get it to stick.
I'm trying to follow RRP's calibration instructions, and I'm confused about how to construct the M556 command because the instructions are sort of ambiguous. I
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Ormerod
Ha! Good spot, I knew it had to be something simple
Strange, that was set at 100% zoom in Chrome. Setting it to 90% revealed the button, as well as my +100 axes (which I overlooked).
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Ormerod
PLA dissolves in dichloromethane, which is commonly sold as paint stripper. If you can't drill it out with a 0.3 drill bit, submerge it for 48 hours in a jar with a lid on it. Clean it thoroughly afterwards, or the solvent will evaporate and leave a PLA slurry behind
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Ormerod
Hey! My Ormerod has been offline for about a month while waiting on a new hotend. I disconnected everything from the Duet during this time. After swapping out the hotend and re-connecting all of the wires, I fired up the Web Control interface only to discover that the bed leveling button has disappeared. Why would it vanish, and how can I get it back?
Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware
Firmware Ver
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Ormerod
Nice work! Have been really keen to try making one of these to shred junk plastic, rather than paying for pure filament. Can you shred other types of junk plastics, like HDPE milk jugs or plastic bags? Not too concerned with the colour, even if it's PakNSave yellow
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Unarchiver in the App Store should be able to do it. It's free!
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Ormerod
My printer is offline at the moment while I wait for a new hotend, so in the meantime, I thought I would address the problem of my power supply and Duet being ziptied to cardboard on the side of my desk. It's taken me a couple of weeks to arrive at this point, and I'm happy with how it turned out. Given the scarcity of the stainless steel enclosure, I thought I would share my build in the hopes
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Ormerod
Awesome! I love seeing stuff like this, showing how a design has progressed over time. Could you offer some insight into why the design progressed from this, to what it is now? Is that a threaded rod on the back of the x-axis? Why did you change the X from wood to acrylic?
Is there any part of this iteration that you wish you had kept?
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Ormerod
I'll chip in for a few, depending on the cost
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Ormerod
I just got 10 on AliExpress for 5USD.
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Ormerod