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Printing issues ...
Also, those hotend wires in the screw terminals look way too close for comfort... I've crammed some Kapton tape in there just in case, but I'm not sure what else I can do.
Did I do something wrong, or are my heater wires just abnormally large? That red stuff is woven insulation with some kind of plastic protecting the threaded cable underneath. I've tinned every wire that uses these screw ter
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Ormerod
For the DC power source, Think3dPrint3D said the 5V regulator is optional, but I've never seen this wired without the regulator. Is this the correct way to wire the power for the Duet 0.8.5?
Duet
Power supply
My only 5V regulator is from Replikeo and I'd prefer to not use it. It burned the brown wire on my last board, so I suspect it is crap.
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Ormerod
I've worked out the wiring for my image above. PC10 replaces AD14 from the Duet 0.6:
Orange/red = AD12
Yellow = GND
Blue = PC10
Green = 3V3
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Ormerod
There's also a pinout on the back of the board.
I ran into the same problem with the wire colours. I ended up labeling the wires according to what the colour was in the RRP docs. This problem has now compounded with my new Duet, as Think3DP used another set of colours with a different order. I created a "Rosetta stone" of sorts to translate between what colour is on the end of my motor, what col
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Ormerod
QuoteDarathy
Quote0x0000
Has the wiring for the probe changed from 0.6 to 0.8.5? The pins on the new Duet are labeled, but the ones on the proximity sensor are not.
On the Duet 0.6:
Green = 3V3
Yellow = GND
Blue = AD14
Red = AD12
My proximity sensor pins are unlabeled, and the values on the back of the new Duet do not correspond with where I had them plugged in on the old board (following this
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Ormerod
Has the wiring for the probe changed from 0.6 to 0.8.5? The pins on the new Duet are labeled, but the ones on the proximity sensor are not.
On the Duet 0.6:
Green = 3V3
Yellow = GND
Blue = AD14
Red = AD12
My proximity sensor pins are unlabeled, and the values on the back of the new Duet do not correspond with where I had them plugged in on the old board (following this diagram from RRP). I can
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Ormerod
My Duet arrived today - along with proper wiring looms and a straight-push connector for my Bowden tube! ! Looking forward to trying out your enclosure, @steve0-uk
Is the RepRapPro logo actually printable? Seems like the closed inner parts of most of the letters (R e p R a p P o and the R in reset) would be made of plastic without any supports?
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Ormerod
The mk3 heatbed has an aluminium backing. In theory, you can print directly on top
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Ormerod
There's also the Replikeo wiki. I found it useful for the odd time when the RRP instructions were unclear
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Ormerod
I only used picture frame glass because it was $2 new and came with a free wooden frame. I don't expect it to last long
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Ormerod
My glass is 3mm thick and came from a picture frame. I had to shorten it by scoring one end
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Ormerod
No rush! My board hasn't arrived yet... I think it's stuck in customs!
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Ormerod
That looks great! I love the circular connectors - they would come in really handy if you ever had to move the Duet to another printer, or swap it out. Wiring might be a pain, but you'd only have to do it once!
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Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk
I am working on an enclosure based on the O2 For the 0.8.5 duet with a lid to mount a cooling fan. However it is untested.
I am willing to release the stl if anyone wants to try it
I'd be keen to try it, though it'd have to be one of my first prints! Would it mount on the back of the power supply, rather than using the steel enclosure? How big is the fan?
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Ormerod
Still no word from Replikeo... one week later they have yet to follow up on any of my emails. Is it possible to troubleshoot this board myself and perhaps repair it? I've tried plugging it in over USB once a night with nothing else connected - the main processor gets scorching hot and it won't respond to any commands. I've had a good look with a magnifying glass and haven't seen anything burned
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Ormerod
Hey all, I took the plunge and have a Duet 0.8.5 on the way (yay!). I've noticed that the board from T3P3 doesn't use the 5V regulator that the Replikeo board was using. Do I need to use that, or can I go without it? Do I just run the 12V leads from the power supply into the 12V on the Duet? Otherwise, it looks like it's a fairly direct replacement for the 0.6 - are there any gotchas or subtle di
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
Also check that the processor on the Duet is not getting hot.
Per the documentation, ensure the processor doesn't feel any hotter than 40C. If you feel it's up in the 60+ range (ie, too hot to touch for long), there's something wrong with your Duet.
Are the SD cards still readable in another computer, or is the Duet possibly frying your SD cards? Your Duet is doing what mine was doing
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Ormerod
QuoteTreito
You could use other controllers like RAMPS with the Ormerod. Why you have not seen any report? Nobody would do that because you only will have disadvantages. It is harder to setup, a web-interface is not easy to get and they are as well problematic like the Duet.
I am unsure if I will buy a Duet 0.85 for my new printer design. It will be of Dual nozzle support. I have a spare Duet 0.6
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Ormerod
QuoteTreito
T3P3 unfortunately is very expensive. This may be caused because it is a small company, but 6 GBP for a hobbed insert? I earlier paid only about 60% of this price probably less for one. And there are only a few shops whose have this in stock and some of them are even more expensive. That is why I am considering to use standard components. In my eyes it would be indeed a better way to
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Ormerod
You can infer a lot from that. It's reading reprap.htm from the SD card, but the JavaScript running on the page can't communicate with the firmware. Open the Chrome dev console, do you see any error messages?
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Ormerod
Is the main ARM processor getting warm/hot? We’ve had a couple of people report that the SD card has shorted out the processor, due to manufacturing defects. Unfortunately, this is usually terminal.
Turns out my processor is exceptionally hot (60+ C)... I wonder if this is also the cause of my SD card failures
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Ormerod
I had to order mine from RRP's extruder kit. There are instructions for making a hobbed bolt on the RepRap wiki, which I would have attempted if I had the tools to do so. Obviously not as good as a commercially machined part, and I felt that the relatively low cost was worth the expense. It was definitely cheaper than all of the tools
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Ormerod
Bummer, I don't even think I can flash it at this point, it's not recognizable over USB. How long did it take you to get a replacement from Replikeo?
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Ormerod
I do think mine has crapped out. I've tried the Reset buttons and MCU Erase, and disconnected all of my wires so that it is plugged in only via USB. The LED light comes on and the processor gets really hot, and it was doing this prior to disconnecting everything. What else can I do?
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Ormerod
The MDF spacer is part #641, according to the CSV parts list. The DXF itself can be found here:
If you're using an E3D hotend, you don't need it.
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Ormerod
I'm having similar issues with mine. Which LED's are lit when you plug it into USB?
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
I find it hard to see how the Duet would fry an SD card without frying the atsam chip too, or at least failing to read any SD card that you inserted. I had one SD card fail on me, caused I think by me applying too much bending force on it while trying to insert it when it wasn't properly aligned with the socket.
These days I rarely remove the SD cards form the sockets of my Duets, exce
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Ormerod
I've lost two of them today - the first was the "new" one I received with my Replikeo order, and the other was an older one I scrounged up in a closet to continue working. I'm working on a Mac to write the config. I've always been careful to unmount and eject the card before mounting it in the Duet. Just yesterday, I wrote the config to the USB and came back this morning to find it dead after i
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Ormerod
Do you have a link to the extruder that takes push fit couplings?
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Ormerod
I filled the nozzle up with diclo and wrapped it up in tin foil for 48 hours. I just unwrapped it and most of the PLA is a dissolved gooey mess that I've wiped up with a Kleenex, so I'd say it worked really well!
The nozzle is almost completely clear, but there seems to be a very tiny amount down at the bottom that I can't seem to clear. I can't see light through the bottom, and because my nozz
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Ormerod