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Printing issues ...
Coupe of thoughts:-
Make sure the threaded Z screws are not constrained - they are only there to provide the Z change.
Check the couplings between the threaded rod and the motor - it needs to be concentric.
Ensure the extruder hot end is not loose or the bearings rocking on the guide shafts.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im no expert but.
// these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
// X and Y offsets must be integers
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
Is telling the printer your probe is where the extruder nozzle is so you need to change these. Also make sure the sensor is probing whe
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
No other replies !!!!!
In the interest of trying to be helpful:-
When you say preheat from the controller can you confirm if this turns the hot end on as well ? If you go to the bed temperature controls can you get the bed to heat?
To be clear the fan on the hot end carriage blowing on the heat sink (cold end fan) is not normally controlled so is usually wired to be on permanently so I assume the
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Whats your infill and travel speeds? These may only occur when printing with infill. If they are high it could miss a step/jump a tooth. Without knowing the machine its hard to comment on the mechanics. Is it possible for the gear to jump a tooth under load - deflection of the rack/carriage.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I don't think it matters if the carriage is bent. That's one reason we have bed levelling screws. As long as the bearings run free. The bed levelling screws need to be long enough to reach the carriage though.
You don't want it to deflect while printing though.
by
MCcarman
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General
Good thought Bry.
The issue is layer height dependant but low layer heights mean low feed rates but retraction is fixed. At the low layer heights the filament will have much longer to heat and then retract.
Im still not clear if this is PLA but if it was then the extruder is already very hot and you have a fairly high retraction. It might be worth trying some lower retract lengths.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Might need to confirm this works with your firmware.
M302 P1 will over ride the wait till temperature setting set by Gcode but some firmware have a built in safety function that doesn't allow extrusion unless the extruder is above a set temperature. I don't know if M302 P1 can over ride this. If not you would have to check if you need to reflash the firmware with a lower safety temperature.
by
MCcarman
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General
I am not a Kossel man and I don't have your host program/slicer so some of the terms are not clear to me. Hopefully someone with knowledge will jump in.
I don't know what the shell parameter is but I see you changed it, and in one instance it has a decimal and the other a coma - I assume that was an error when you typed it in the forum. I assume its perimeter wall thickness.
if its wall thickness
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Hi.
Probably under extrudes all the time as there are issues with your 0.3 print at the same layers. At these layers the walls are very thin and poorly supported so the error is showing up more.
Why have you set the nozzle width to 0.35 if its 0.4mm? Then you have a flow multiplier of 110. I suggest you set the nozzle to 0.4 and flow at 100 and retry.
The nozzle width is used for print run spacin
by
MCcarman
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Printing
You sure you are not just chasing the shrinkage. The walls typically shrink more than the corners so the walls "pull in". This is why the infill affects the outside as it can reduce the shrinkage.
The corners will be thicker with increasing nozzle size so a 0.5 nozzle will be more of a problem than a 0.4mm.
The order of printing the perimeter should have an influence. As the 1st perimeter printed
by
MCcarman
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Printing
240C is high for PLA and could be high for ABS. What material are you printing?
I couldn't see what your problem was from the pictures. Can you explain?
There is a lot of detail in the external profile in the video so you may need to print slower.
Have you printed a calibration cube?
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
You can research how the slicers calculate the material requirement.
The slicer auto calculation considers the layer height not just the nozzle size. So it has a different value dependant on the layer height. If you try to use fixed width values or the multiplier you will probably find these are only valid for the layer height you used. Theres another rule of thumb that says don't used fixed widt
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I am thinking:-
Lack of current from the PSU to allow the steppers to operate at the same time as the hot end = unlikely.
Somewhere the z axis direction is inverted = when printing the steppers are trying to lower the hotend and it just sits on the z end stop.
The Z offset in your slicer is incorrect (Has a large positive number in it). = The slicer thinks the bed is a lot lower than it is, trie
by
MCcarman
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Printing
As Wide... says that's not bad for a first go. Just look how many cant get anything to print first go. I do suspect there may be some play in the system, the belts may be a bit loose. Not all machines have adjusters. Also check that the extruder is tight to the X carriage. Check the z lead screw couplings are done up. Overhangs are always an issue as there is nothing to hold the extruded material
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Only extrude when the hot end is at temperature. Seems you can do that using the LCD controls so the temperatures must be OK.
In repetier ensure you have the extruder at temperature. When printing ensure you have a gap between the extruder nozzle and the bed.
If the motor is clicking it implies you have insufficient current to the motor. If the filament jams the motor usually keeps going and you
by
MCcarman
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Printing
As an engineer this looks like someone didn't do the science but likes the making. Im not impressed. Its got a small bed, the 4 z rods are a liability, if any one of them is not straight or aligned properly it will jamb. The only thing that's an improvement on machines this size and price is the fully supported carriages and direct drive. Both of which you can find on other machines just not alwa
by
MCcarman
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General
Im not near my machine to be specific but I think its just called layer height on the same tab as 1st layer height. 1st layer is a special case to help you get the 1st layer to stick.
You can also override this in Repetier Host if you want, and specify a different value to what is set in Slic3r.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I don't have auto leveling active on my machine but I have ordered a sensor so for my interest:-
Is the sensor raised above the bed when moving to each X/Y position and then lower to the bed or does it move (drag across the bed to each position and then raise and lower?
What sort of switch are you using? Just wondering how it deflects if it gets dragged across the bed. My Z stop has a small wheel
by
MCcarman
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Printing
You stated 1st layer height. What is the height for the others?
Rule of thumb for layer thickness is don't go over 75% of the nozzle diameter so the max you should use is 0.33mm.
Which slicer are you using ? Cura or Slic3r - just so we know what settings are available.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im not an expert but I assume you are using an inductive sensor so it will be detecting the metal on the heater.
You seem to be printing on glass so we can ask if the glass is parallel and if the glass is siting evenly on the heater.
We can also question what response you get from the sensor if the probe is not directly over a track on the heater.
Do you autolevel when the bed is hot?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Just wondering what your temperature profile looks like. Is the PID calibrated for 265? Is the firmware max temp limit set above 265?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I think the sensors are designed for 12v feed so you can't use the 5v feed on the end stop circuit. You just get 12v from the power feed. Theres some old stuff on the web that says you need to put some resistors in to drop the signal voltage to about 4v. That would then be on the return side of the end stop circuit.
Alternatively you could use the relay board as Stepenrc suggests so the signal tr
by
MCcarman
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General
Hi Bobyni. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I am pretty certain the issue is on board as the laptop worked OK before and is still OK on another printer. Its not recognising the com port so the baud rate etc is irrelevant.. I am getting the 5V through the USB.
I think there is a TTL converter chip on the board so I was wondering if that's blown, or the serial inputs to the Arduino? I am a novi
by
MCcarman
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General
repost from the electronics folder as there was no response - hope someone here can help.
Hi all.
During printing the other day I had my Prusa clone jamb to the extent that it tripped the house mains supply.
On powering up again every thing works except there is no communication via USB. My Laptop doesn't respond (no comport recognition). I have changed the cable. Checked the Laptop is OK by us
by
MCcarman
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General
I think you are right that it stops extruding as its regular and even your 2 wall perimeter only has one in some places.
Could check the max extruder temp limit in the firmware is above your hot end temperatures. I don't know how that's implemented in the firmware but assume it just turns back on when the temperature drops. If your PID tuning is poor then you could overshoot the target temperatur
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Mine is normally at least 0.1 over the nozzle size. In your case I wouldn't expect the nozzle is greater than 0.6mm. So it could be a 0.6 supplied in error or a poorly made (over size) 0.5mm.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I didn't know anyone did a V2 with 2 connectors for the Z steppers.
Sounds like they are connected in series so if you disconnect one neither will work. You can search on the web for z stepper motor wiring. I think most use wiring in parallel and only have one connector.
If you look at the wiring for series you can work out which pins to connect on your unused connector. You might need to do some
by
MCcarman
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General
Hi all.
During printing the other day I had my Prusa clone jamb to the extent that it tripped the house mains supply.
On powering up again every thing works except there is no communication via USB. My Laptop doesn't respond (no comport recognition). I have changed the cable. Checked the Laptop is OK by using my other machine.
I have control of the printer via the LCD controls and can print from
by
MCcarman
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Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for the info.
If you have to run 220 to print and we assume the thermocouple is over reading then the PID may also be off. So when the hot end is turned off by the PID it could be overcooling.
So you could try increasing the temp another 5 degrees and tune the PID. Keep an eye on the temperatures while printing to see how low it goes.
Not sure why your test block would be OK unless theres
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry for the obvious question but sometimes we can't see the wood for the trees.
Does your slicer have the correct filament size selected? If it was accidently changed to 3mm after you sliced the cube all later prints will under extrude.
Also as Audacious says - ensure you have the PTFE tube in the extruder. The fact that you say the filament twists implies there is room in the tube. Im not sure
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants