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Printing issues ...
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Printed a Benchy
Hatchbox ABS
Filament Temp 220
Be d Temp 95 first layer then 85
Used the Nozzle fan @ 20% after layer 1, 30% for bridges.
Going to try again with no fans. I see the blisters/pillowing is gone
bottom looks bad as does the bridging. The Bottom I believe has text 3DBenchy or something.
pictures attached
Thoughts?
I tried a couple lower temps but this looked the best so far
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
is pillowing more of an indent? this is more like a blister (puffed out)
Edit.. Upon looking at the filament I found some info that the recommended Bed Temp is 55-85 (Ref: )
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
QuoteShank man
I see some "pillowing".Increasing the infill percentage would help.
So infill was set at 20%, I am guessing that is something that will vary from printer to printer plus all the environment variables..
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
DOH.. not enclosed. I need to find a better spot for the printer and put an enclosure around it
I will try lowering the temp too.
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
First try at ABS printing...
Setup:
- Hatchbox ABS with temp rating of 210-240
- bed leveled
- e3d extruder
I printed with the bed at 110c and the filament at 235c
Attached in black is the ABS and also attached is a blue part done in PLA.
Where do I need to look or adjust for ABS? What am I doing wrong?
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
Wow thanks for the info.. I like that setup with the fan mount. the kit printer I got as a gift from my wife, has this setup for the fan (heat sink is hidden in the picture as it is behind the fan. it is a direct mount and I would like to find a better solution, any suggestions?
I like the idea of the heatbreak being set and not turning as well
The auto bed level is mounted but I have not hook
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jdebuhr
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Printing
I am all for using PLA if I can.. But here is why I am looking at ABS.
this part I am making will potentially need to attach to an ABS part in my car. to do that I use Acetone along with ABS pellets. this part also needs to be painted along with my ABS part in the car
attached is a picture overall rough size is 140mm x 80mm X 8mm
Thanks!!
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
If the part isn't too bulky, you can get away without heating the enclosure- just put a box over the printer to prevent drafts from cooling the print too suddenly.
A lot of people print a lot of PLA because they have open printers. But if you're printing things that you want to last a long time, PLA is not a great choice because it melts at a very low temperature. Can yo
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
well, if Printing ABS is a difficult as it sounds, maybe I find a place to print my object once complete.. it is for a car so PLA will not work
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Sorry.. yes I have a heated bed..
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
Outside of making sure I have the right hotend and my setup can handle temperatures..
When printing with ABS on to a Aluminum bed. What do i need to put on the bed? Meaning when I print with PLA I use a glue stick on the area in which I am printing
Thanks
by
jdebuhr
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Printing
Fixed.. Table to front and Nozzle to right.. coordinates are now 200x200x0
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
I have one of these, Wife purchased mine on eBay for me for the holidays. She got it fairly reasonable $$ wise.
I have upgraded the Control board with a RAMBo given to me from a friend, along with a bigger display.
I bought an aluminum bed and working on adding Auto Bed Leveling..
Next will be a metal frame..
by
jdebuhr
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust
"When I auto home, bed moves all the way to the front, z moves down and x moves to back right.."
X and Y is backwards from standard.
I suspect you have endstop at the right of X and at the front of Y.
These should be configured as X-MAX and Y-MAX, with homing set to #define X_HOME_DIR 1 and #define Y_HOME_DIR 1
" 0,0 is the front left where would the bed be sitting along with the X
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jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
So a normal set up.. if 0,0 is the front left where would the bed be sitting along with the X axis? Maybe I am confused and not clear myself.
When I auto home, bed moves all the way to the front, z moves down and x moves to back right..
If I manually move the X 50 it moves left, if I manually move Y +50 it starts moving back..
So what if any thing is opposite or wrong?
So I found this:
#defi
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
I have had my printer for a month, everything works now, printed some items with no issues and now I am looking into Auto Bed Leveling. I have a sensor and mounted it but most stuff I see says 0,0 (X,Y) is the front Left of the printer, however if I home my printer the 0,0 is the back right. Is this wrong?
Now if my position of 0,0 being back right is okay, I would guess is the bed sensor is
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
Printer has bee working decently now.. Thanks to all for the help and info. I would like to change the way the fan is mounted, but if I swap to the e3D V6 hot end I am thinking I will not even need PTFE tubing..
The heatsink I have might just need a better heat break that is like the e3d variation and I can mount as it is. otherwise I need to look into other ways to mount everything.. Then eith
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Thanks.. it is interesting as I bought the E3d lite6 and while I have not installed the directions have the PTFE go all the way to the nozzle. So my cheap Chinese setup is similar and I am able to print. I might get a better heat break where the PTFE will only go to the top. I have direct setup currently with the big PTFE.
There are so many different nozzle/hot end styles is any one better than
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Retraction setting was length of 2mm
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jdebuhr
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Printing
QuoteMMcLure
Another thing that can help is to switch to VSCode+PlatformIO instead of Arduino. PlatformIO will compile the libraries into archive files (.a) instead of trying to link all of the constituent files on one long command line, and also handles dependencies (such as ensuring that the right library version is used) much better that Arduino.
Yeah I would need a tutorial on that.. I did t
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
So the PTFE is not required? I see it is shown with the e3d V6 and e3d lite6. I need to adapt either to fit. Next piece for me will be to replace the frame. The printer I have is a reprapguru purchased for me as a gift from my wife.. apparently she got it cheaper than what I have seen them listed for. I know the acrylic is not the best, but many of the parts seem good. If I can get it to print b
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Well that is one issue with the missing PFTE, although it never shipped with any PFTE tubing. The other issue is the heat break I have never gets narrow. I was thinking of buying the e3d lite6 but migh just get the e3d V6 and be done.. too many issues with clones
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Dust,
Just wanted to thank you for your help.. I successfully loaded 2.0.2 on my printer
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
Couple pictures.. back side of fan mount as it came.. there is a slight blockage at the bottom..
Picture of hotend assembly along with the mount just above the assembly
Picture or filament that came out of hotend when I removed it. The thin ‘tail’ was closest to the nozzle.
I think I just need to replace it with a non clone..
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Is the retraction setting in one of the marlin configuration files? Or is it in the eeprom?
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jdebuhr
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Printing
I will disassemble that and take a look..
In my searching around I also read about calibrating the Extruder stepper,would this cause problems as well. I also noticed when it clogs the unit (pulley and year) does not click, I took it apart and the pulley can rock and has some play. I was going to replace it but then thought if I switch the extruder/hot end assembly that would get replaced as wel
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jdebuhr
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Printing
Pictures attached, it looks like a V6 clone. I am trying to print with PLA. I will
Post again with the other details as these are paired from my phone
Added Temperatures I have tried 200 and 210.. I am not I know where to find the retraction info. I am also wondering is it possible I am pushing the filament too fast? Stepper was set to 90.
I swapped to the Rambo tonight and I still have issues
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jdebuhr
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Printing
okay,
tried the version I had then the 2.0.2.. removed Marlin.cpp and Marlin.h
Set the LCD, Board and SDCard..
tried to compile.. attached is the log from 2.0.2 (Trimmed down, but all errors are there). While I would really like it to work, I will be content with 1.1.9, which I have loaded on my Rambo Board and it seems to boot up and work. I just need to connect all the pieces onmy printer
by
jdebuhr
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Firmware - Marlin
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Pages: 123