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just reading your post again, it didn't work at all??
It's not lined up against the idler bearing or pushing against it then ?
Actually, thinking about it, when mine turned up there was a large lump of extrusion where the face of the idler bearing should be against the hobbed bolt.
I could put it together, but I took it apart again and cleaned it all out.
Was there large lumps of plastic to
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DaveS
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Reprappers
That's odd.
Does it line up with the idler properly.
I genuinely cannot lift mine out when there is filament in it, so I'm wondering if there's a mistake somewhere.
The bolt that runs through the middle of yours looks longer than it should be ? but don't see how that would hurt.
It's done up right so that you can't pull filament backwards through it I presume ?
I'm wondering what is wrong, so
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DaveS
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Reprappers
are your belts tight ? can you twang them as if they are guitar strings ?
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DaveS
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Reprappers
what are you using to slice ? The speed is usually set when slicing.
I see you are using pronterface, so are you using slic3r ?
You can press "slicing settings" in pronterface, and then slow the speed down when the slic3r settings open.
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DaveS
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Reprappers
Hmm...
I have that extruder, and I physically can't pull that gear out when filament is loaded.
I don't think those washers are helping.. I think they are moving the filament to the side of the hobbing causing the gear to pop up ?
I notice my gear does ride up a bit and seat itself on the filament when my printer is running.
I'm using 1.75mm filament, don't know if it makes a difference if you
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DaveS
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Reprappers
Ok,.. it's really not that intensive.
I am using a laptop,
A Lenovo G505 with an AMD A6 Quad Core. I had a limited budget of £400, when my last laptop melted a couple of months ago, and after quite a bit of research I decided on this one.
It was this or a low end touch screen PC, but then I would swap processor and RAM for a touch screen, and I didn't really need a touch screen.
Big plus was
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DaveS
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General
To be honest I'd be the first to rush out and buy a water cooled hotend if it made a difference.
Our laser cutter/engraver has both watercooling for the tube and air assistance for the head, and all works very well.
I'm not adverse to tanks of water, pumps and compressors where needed.
Can I make a suggestion that isn't sarcastic this time.
Google "Triffid Hunters Calibration"
there are f
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DaveS
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General
any pics of the actual hotend btw ? You've not even posted any pics of the hotend.
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DaveS
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General
Brilliant, so you've implemented a way of controlling the exact amount of cooling on the cold bit of the hotend ?, why didn't you mention that earlier ?
That's fantastic.
So, are you must be using an extra thermistor on the cold bit of the hot end, so that you can measure it I presume? I also presume you are just adding ice as a proof of concept at this stage, otherwise it'd be pointless as it
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DaveS
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General
Agreed, and you can adequately do that with a heatsink and block at that point or via watercooling, or via a bit of dry ice or with liquid nitrogen, but they all do it adequately.
It doesn't really matter as long as its below the melting temperature of the filament being used.
(actually, it does matter if you think about it, because the hot bit has to be hot, so you don't want to overly cool t
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DaveS
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General
What fun,
What I can never understand is all the focus on cooling.
It's easy to adequately cool the cold end bit of a hotend. That's obvious by the small size and surface area of the heatsink.
There's not much heat to take away, it's not like a car, where there's loads of heat to dissipate. A radiator on a car isn't solid, it looks like it is because it's made up of many many layers of foil,
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DaveS
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General
Hi all, I've been following this and all the other threads about hole sizes for a short while now. The other day I spent a day printing test pieces to see if I could get my holes to the correct size by disregarding any actual sizes and widths and trying to fudge things, and like everyone else, realised I couldn't.
I think I can probably comment on some of the confusion out there.
I was readin
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DaveS
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Slic3r
fair do's.
I didn't realise it was important it was herringbone !
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DaveS
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General
There's quite a few bevel gears on thingiverse
> for instance <
The above gears move the rotation through 90 degrees, I'm not sure how that helps ?
Anyway.. thingiverse is quite a good first port of call for stuff like this.
regards,
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DaveS
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General
210 sounds ridiculously hot for PLA, I print at 185/186.
Could this be a slicer problem? Are you using 1.75 or 3mm PLA ? What is it set to in slicer?
Usually I'd say, calibrate your extruder, but if you've done that, I'd measure your filament with a micrometer/caliper and put that in your slicer.
I'd check all your slicing settings are the same as the filament/nozzle and you've not got a high
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DaveS
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Reprappers
Hi,
you could try this...
if you have a bit of clear plastic pipe around that will fit over your lead screws.
Print yourself a couple of little clamps, take off your couplings, replace with a bit of pipe, and clamp it on your leadscrew and stepper shaft.
Like This : CLICK HERE
Backlash is issues with the play of the nut on your leadscrew. You can "wiggle it up and down" a tiny bit.
This can b
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DaveS
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General
5-10% is a lot.
You are saying for every 100mm of filament, you extrude an extra 5mm to 10mm. That's a lot of extra plastic around.
I have noticed if my first layer is out, then my subsequent layers are affected, this seems logically to me, as my extruder moves up 1 layer after printing the first layer, and it expects there to be room for the next layer after the previous layer.
So your head i
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DaveS
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General
tight? are your belts tight. Very tight.
Also,.. what's your idler like at the other end ?
On my printer I have a half twist in the belt as it goes across the bottom, so that it goes round the idler on the smooth side of the belt. I think this helps.
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DaveS
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General
Hi,..
looking at the general quality of your prints, I'd say it looks like your belts aren't tight ? and you may be printing too hot/and/or extruding too much plastic.
That's going to be a hard piece to print without your extruder and temperature dialled in I'd say.
What are you printing in, is that ABS? I can print stuff like this is in PLA, each extruder is different, but I print at 186 degr
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DaveS
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General
I have a little pair of side cutters, I find when things appear "GLUED" to the bed, I grip a corner with my side cutters, give it a little lever, and it pops off. I think it's some sort of suction effect, as I find as soon as I lift a corner, it comes away easily.
I print on Kapton tape, with PLA only. I give it a wipe with a bit of cheap nail varnish remover and a piece of kitchen towel to dry
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DaveS
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Reprappers
I built a huxley kit from reprappro for my first one, due to price (I am on a tight budget) and because it was compact enough to go on a desk in the spare room.
I bought a kit because I wanted to have everything arrive in the one box, and I wanted it to WORK IMMEDIATELY! (it did, but build it slowly, you'll thank yourself when it print perfectly later).
I am now printing my second printer bit by
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DaveS
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General
How tight are your belts on your other axis ?
When my printer starts building non perfectly vertical side walls, I know my belts have worked loose.
I can play mine like guitar strings. (both x and y)
It could be exacerbating some tiny variance on your Z axis. What does your Z anti backlash look like ? are you confident it's working ?
hope you get it sorted,
cheers,
Dave
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DaveS
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General
I have some experience in writing manuals for technical products.
If I take the time to write a reprap manual, with all the hard won knowledge I now have, but also all the hard won knowledge of all those that have gone before which is peppered all over the place.
a) would you buy it ?
b) should I sell it ?
c) would you object to me doing that ?
d) what should I do with the profits ?
When I st
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DaveS
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General
Hi all..
I was having the same "sticking to the bed" problems as every one else. Necessitating the same hoops and jumping.
Then.. by chance I printed something where the first layer fill was at 90 degrees not 45 degrees.
The first layer fill now involves ONLY the X carriage moving left and right with a step from my Y carriage at the end of every row.
i.e. the bed is not moving while the nozzle
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DaveS
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Reprappers
I only print with PLA,.. on to Kapton Tape.
no 1 for me is "no grease", I clean the bed about every 3 or 4 prints with some acetone wipes I got from the chemist.
Then I rub it over with a bit of toiler tissue to dry it.
I second all of the above as well. Have never used hairspray, glue, etc etc.
Level the bed, and when you home "Z", Z should be *just* and I mean *just* touching the bed.
Home Z
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DaveS
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Reprappers
@robin2
when I say "too slow" I think I mean both...
printing larger things can take a couple of hours.. imagine if you have a printer that could only move at 30mm/s. It would take at least 8 hours for a print ?!
Think of the wear on the threads, going up and down for 8 hours every time you print one thing.
Think of waiting 8 hours to find out if the new bit of modelling you have done on the
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DaveS
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General
Hi,
that's not quite how it works at what we call "enterprise level", (rather than what we call "back bedroom level")
but I know what you mean ;-)
cheers,
Dave.
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DaveS
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Reprappers
I agree, it will be too slow on the x and y axis,
for instance, you cannot move the Y carriage at 250mm/s on a leadscrew, which is the speed that printers use for moves between extrusions.
There are a lot of moves between extrusions, and the extrusions themselves can happen at 40mm / s.
leadscrews are used for Z because it makes tiny, accurate movements, (0.3mm), once per layer.
have a look o
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DaveS
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General
Hi Bob,
I think you're right, reprap is certainly a "what works for you" sort of thing.
I work as a senior systems designer for a retail company. So, I basically define a version of a truth for how a system works in software.
It means you get very focused on single solutions, i.e. if there's a protocol for an interface, you HAVE to use the protocol, because anything else just does not work !
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DaveS
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Reprappers
Hi,
I can help with the hairs,
retract setting needs looking at and extruder needs calibrating.
I am printing with 1.75 PLA and a Bowden tube.
My retract is 2.1mm, and I haven't gone below 0.25 yet for layer height.
My prints were hairy till I sorted my retract amount and speed.
Oh, and calibrate, it all means nothing unless you calibrate your extruder and measure your actual filament.
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DaveS
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General
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