So close! But ultimately skipped a step and failed 3/4 of the way. Cura says 16 minutes, but pronterface said 22 to complete (and failed at ~19). I've found pronterface to be more realistic. Tweak / tune / try again! This printer is less than 24 hours old, so I'm still toying with it. JWby mydogjustice - Competitions
So I'm left with a couple of options. I've reprinted one of the corners scaled at 124% and it snaps perfectly. So I can rescale, reprint and re-engineer going down that road. Obvious couple hitches that I'd need to rebuild. Not to mention the beautiful 8mm rod that I had Sublime cut to length that is no longer long enough...pisser. There are a bunch of parts that would need to be scaled, butby mydogjustice - Tantillus
I imported the SVG files to Illustrator and exported the EPS for Ponoko. I did some rework to minimize some of the cutting time, but never gave a second thought to verify dimensions. I'm no Illustrator pro by any stretch. I just bumble my way through it until I get what I want. I (just) measured the stl files of the LC sides and they are perfectly sized. No idea why the svg files would be ~2by mydogjustice - Tantillus
Venting some frustration and hoping someone else will learn from my mistakes. Waited 3.5 weeks for an order from Ponoko to be delivered to find out I had something mucked up with the scale. So anxious to start building my Tantillus and waiting patiently for a set of LC panels in cherry. I somehow ended up submitting drawings that were about 25% bigger than they were supposed to be. Nowby mydogjustice - Tantillus
This is very promising news! os1r1s, are you willing to share your updated corners? Thanks!by mydogjustice - Tantillus
I'm toying with the idea of building a Tantillus (even though I'm only half way through a Rostock build). I can't seem to find anything that indicates what the material thickness is for the case. The tabs seem to indicate 5mm and the corners have allowance for 6mm. Is there enough room to go with any material between 4.5 and 6mm thick? I've been looking for an excuse to try ponoko and most ofby mydogjustice - Tantillus
While taking my weekly stroll through Lowes, I found some tubing in the plumbing section thats raised some interest. Any thoughts on whether or not polyethylene tubing would work for a Bowden. The smallest they had in stock was 1/4"od x .17"id. (about 4mm id). Seemed rigid enough, but I've never worked with a bowden, so I'm not positive what it takes. Really cheap too! $0.16/ft. Thanks forby mydogjustice - General
; generated by Slic3r 0.7.2b on 2012-06-19 at 18:49:07 ; layer_height = .2 ; perimeters = 2 ; solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = .2 ; nozzle_diameter = .35 ; filament_diameter = 2.82 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeter_speed = 40 ; infill_speed = 60 ; travel_speed = 80 ; extrusion_width_ratio = 0 ; scale = 1 ; single wall width = 0.49mm I wanted to get some other colors into the mix, but I doby mydogjustice - Competitions
Unless you're getting into some really complex stuff, it doesnt take too terribly much to get into the modeling. Especially if you start with using something like sketchup thats not as resource intensive as some of the full blown CAD programs. You may just need to be a bit more patient waiting for some of the boolean operations or renders It always helps to work with the fastest machine you cby mydogjustice - Look what I made!
I havent gotten to play with mine since I updated this post. I dont have any concrete documentation other than a few bookmarks and what I've included in this thread. Sometimes I purposely post to the forum to create documentation. Its a huge part of my job and I'm pretty proficient, although I dont always do during the course of action. I will put some more info together when I get somethingby mydogjustice - General
Some of you may have already seen it up on Thingiverse, but I'm just too damn proud of this thing! I've always loved teh idea of having an oversized revolver cylinder to sit on the desk and never had a way to realize it. Its been in the back of my mind as a project since I started printing in January. Well, I'm finally starting to figure out Rhino and this is what I'll consider my first "real"by mydogjustice - Look what I made!
Thats awesome! Someday I'll print something full plate size, but for right now, I dont have the patience for the slicing and printing that you did! Nicely done!by mydogjustice - Look what I made!
mydogjustice Wrote: > I have a hunch that I'm missing > something simple in the sketch, I finally got it worked out (although I'm still far from actually printing with it) yesterday using the Ruby script. Although I suspect that the Python code will work as well now. Sure enough, it was in the arduino sketch. I had to disable the x endstop in the Spherebot.pde #define XAXIS_ENDby mydogjustice - General
I dont really know of any other resources to get some insight on my problem so I turn to you guys! I've printed and assembled an eggbot as seen on Thingiverse and I've wired an Uno with two steppers/drivers that I stole from my prusa. Using firmware and diagrams found Speherbot I'm at the point I'm trying to test and I just cant get anywhere with sending gcode files. I've tried the python filby mydogjustice - General
RobA Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > WD40 is a cleaner, not a lube.by mydogjustice - Printing
Ultimately my solution was to reduce acceleration in the firmware and not slice a model at exceptionally high speeds. #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {900,900,80,10000} The motors were missing steps and causing the shift. I was able to narrow it down and saw it happening at the end of one layer, when the non print move was allowed to move at a faster than normal printing speed as it movby mydogjustice - Printing
Great success! Kinda. So we're definetly on the right track with getting the settings dialed in to get some awesome results. First layer is nothing but glass smooth. Its not even possible to see a single differentiation in the extrusion. Massive adhesion to the point that I ripped it apart taking it up from the glass bed. I could have waited till it cooled and maybe pumped it through a few hby mydogjustice - Printing
Already off to a better start at the first layer. Rechecked level on the bed. Actually have it tight enough that I cant get paper underneath the nozzle at Z home. But not so tight it appears to be compressing the table. Ran into a problem with the latest version of Marlin I referred to in the previous post. No time right now to get it narrowed down, but the temp wouldnt meet criteria to stby mydogjustice - Printing
Awesome points! I've been using the PID temp settings since I switched to Marlin, BUT, you're post prompted me to go check GitHub and there is a new release of the firmware (within the last 5 days). It was a very minor revision compared to what I was already running, but I try and stay with the most current release. It looks like Erik did make some changes with regards to the PID calculationsby mydogjustice - Printing
What temp are you printing with? It could be oozing from too high of a temperature. This will also change from plastic to plastic, so you'll have to get an idea of how different color filaments respond to different temps. Also echoing MKouri's thoughts on retraction. JWby mydogjustice - Printing
Bingo! Thats the post I was thinking about. Couldnt find it in my bookmarks. Here's the link for anyone else RichRap I need to go back and re-read that article. I'm also terribly impatient (probablly the reason I tried to break my speed records first), but it seems to be an inherent drive that I find the limitations at all ends of the spectrum on anything I play with. Its odd, but when I lby mydogjustice - Printing
I've accidentally printed on my acrlyic and had a horrible time with it. Part of the print actually melted fast to the board and I was forced to sand it back to smooth. Melted my own hole at the home position. Stuck a few other pieces if I was lazy when putting on the blue tape. All around miserable accidental experience. Didnt even think it was possible to print directly to acrylic. Anxioby mydogjustice - Printing
I've played around before trying to make the printer print as fast as it will possibly manage to still turn out a print correctly, but I'm now playing with the other "limits" and right now just started to get into super thin layers. I'm completely tickeled with the first print, but I need some advice moving forward and some insight from this print. Settings from this print: .05 layer height 3by mydogjustice - Printing
I'm not even trying to do anything that "irrational"! But good for you! I think I had layer height set at .3 and its really not an overly complex model. I had another one that I set to slice before I left for work and it never completed. It wasnt a huge file and not a particularly huge print, but I would say that its rather intricate with lots of holes and overhangs and just a complex print.by mydogjustice - Slic3r
Is there a limit on how large of a file can be slic3d? I ran into a curious bit with one lately. I had a model that was large to begin with at 136mb. It slic3d the file at normal size. Took approx 2 minutes. Printed fine without any problems. I decided it would be a fun print to print larger, so I doubled its size in slic3r (Scale=2) and 12 hours later it never finished. Dialouge was stillby mydogjustice - Slic3r
You didn't miss it cause I didnt post it! I've got a 10Ohm 10W resistor in the sensing line. I still havent taken the time to test theory against the other 12V rail yet. To be honest, its working on one right now (even at only 15A) and I've been having too much fun playing with the addition of a heat bed! Maybe this weekend I'll have time to swap it over and see what happens. I'll update aby mydogjustice - General
So I've managed some more testing and reconfiguring and rethinking about the setup. I've unhooked one of the 12V rails and ponied off of the other one. Bed, nozzle and motors all worked and get no more shutoff from the bed reaching temp. When I get some free time, I plan on swapping out the 12V line for the other 12V line and see if I still get a working config. If it doesnt work, then thereby mydogjustice - General
OK, so I self resolved the other topic, but I'm not getting anywhere with this one and I'm a bit stumped. If I have the heated bed running and shut it off through the Pronterface console, its shutting down the entire PSU. 460W PSU with 2 seperate 12V 15A rails. Should be more than enough to handle both a hot end and a heated bed. The second the thermistor says the bed is at temp and starts dialinby mydogjustice - General
I've been printing from Win7 64 Pro for a few weeks now with no issues. I also plan on recommisioning one of my laptops to be solely dedicated to the printer. The USB cord across the room is becoming a bit of a PITA. Just out of curiosity, how long of a USB cable were you using? I've had problems with a DVD duplicator/printer and the manufacturer told me I shouldnt be using a cable (at leastby mydogjustice - General
They dont seem to be off at all this morning so maybe it was ambiant air temp or they hadnt cooled down completely last night. Thanks for the link though, I'm gonna cruise through it later tonite cause its still interesting material JWby mydogjustice - General