Show all posts by user

Re: TMC2130 use_tmc_sw_spi driver error - 6 years ago

Thought that I would able to use the software spi so the whole board wiring and assembly looks cleaner. Is there any clash if I leave the x and y cs pin to default which is 53 and 49? I was thinking to move all cs pins to 63, 40, 42, 65 and 66 if there are no clash on aux-2

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

TMC2130 use_tmc_sw_spi driver error - 6 years ago

Hi, I've setup everything with tmc2130 to use with spi mode. I did multiple tests that mosi is on pin 44 and able to confirm that I can't use pin 44 because when there's a wire plugged into that pin, firmware just got into "driver error, please restart" screen. Even if the wire just plugged there not connected to the driver pin. By default, pin 44 are default to e1 if I'm not mistaken and this

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Hacking Zortrax M200? - 6 years ago

Hi guys, I thought this thread is dead because there hasn't been any replies for more than a year, but it came back. Thank you for trying to keep this thread alive. I do see someone modified the zortrax with open source electronics but unsure what board did he use. I'm sure those who wanted to modify the zortrax mainboard or swapping, already grew tired of the zortrax systems, furthermore at

by sarf2k4 - General

Printed Frame for 2004 LCD? - 6 years ago

Hi, I couldn't find any frames that incorporates the 2004 lcd where I am planning to use it on a printed frame. One I know of is only the Tantillus A2 but it is a laser/milled cut version which I don't have access to such hardware. I am planning to print the frame if my resource permits me to and added the printable files part of the collection too. Does anyone have this 2004 lcd version? Tha

by sarf2k4 - Tantillus

Re: Issue with my Y Axis settings, could use some help! - 6 years ago

Hi, sorry for the late response, been busy with things and forgot to check with your issues here. You got a new board and now it hums on the z axis although it is the same if you changed the stepper driver. This usually involves with what nicknonsense stated, maybe underpowered. What I might do for calibrating the stepper current is to rotate the potmeter while moving the axis. Be very careful

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Need help on ribbing issues - 6 years ago

Apparently, the problem lies in z motor mount for the 2020 frame where the screws were loose and caused the motor itself to wobble. I've reverted back to the aluminum spring coupler, remodeled the z axis top bracket not to constrain the acme rods by giving margin on the bracket, used the blue filament holder in the picture and finally, tighten the screws for the z motor mount. Summary, z-motor m

by sarf2k4 - Printing

Re: Issue with my Y Axis settings, could use some help! - 6 years ago

Have you tried the latest bugfix including the version 2.0 of marlin? I can't help but to think it might be your board is the one having issues. Also, what about your eeprom settings?

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Need help on ribbing issues - 6 years ago

Yes, because I've been using the anti-wobble printable tr8*8 nut that will support as a pad for the x axis gantry from the bottom. I actually didn't notice this ribbing issue until I printed a tall object. Most of which I print small and short.

by sarf2k4 - Printing

Need help on ribbing issues - 6 years ago

I got struck by ribbing issues which I never encountered before and I'm unsure how I'm going to solve this. What I did was try to check on which acme rods that I used and it is TR8*8 (I think?) with 8mm lead per revolution, put 400 steps/mm on 1/16th microstepping, used 0.2mm layer height during printing which was actually the optimal layer. Here is the series of images about the ribbing issues

by sarf2k4 - Printing

Re: Issue with my Y Axis settings, could use some help! - 6 years ago

Hi, It might have to do with the board. I also running on ramps 1.4, marlin 1.1.x bugfix and didn't have any problems. Try to modify pins_RAMPS.h, line 76. swap the number between Y_MIN_PIN and Y_MAX_PIN From #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 To #define Y_MIN_PIN 15 //#define Y_MAX_PIN 15 Save, flash/upload the firmware to your arduino. Move the

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Issue with my Y Axis settings, could use some help! - 6 years ago

From your description of problem, it looked like your min y-endstop has wiring problem. Try to fiddle with its switch and check using M119 command. Further testing should be you swap the y-endstop plug into another axis connector to isolate the problem.

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Skew calculation? - 6 years ago

Hi, I've been wondering about the marlin's skew formula here: * - Compute AB : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2 * - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD))) If I understand correctly, first we need to get AB computed variable, then we would use the AB again for the skew factor. I did copy the above formula directly to openscad and echo the results. It was out of ma

by sarf2k4 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Blank copperless PCB? - 6 years ago

I'm sorry, I don't know how to create them. Sourcing the right material with the right tools also hard for me

by sarf2k4 - Polymer Working Group

Re: Blank copperless PCB? - 6 years ago

The thing with diffusing the led is that I wanted to have a solid sheet or plate to cover the led. I also believe that the PCB material are quite dense, solid and finer thus able to diffuse the led

by sarf2k4 - Polymer Working Group

Blank copperless PCB? - 6 years ago

Hi, I've been finding a sheet of anything that can diffuse the led lights effectively. I've found out that using a pcb on an area without copper trace/fill there works best. Is there anyway that I am able to source a blank copperless pcb sheet and I prefer them to be white colour. Or if you guys have any suggestion on alternatives to the effectiveness of the pcb It would be greatly appreciated

by sarf2k4 - Polymer Working Group

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

So this TCO is a temperature based fuse and it is a one time use only right? If I got only one TCO, it got blown or cut out due to exceeding the temperature, I got to replace to a new one right?

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

What does this TCO looked like? What about the price and what is it that I should be looking for in terms of the spec?

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

Quotethe_digital_dentist Do connect the power supply input ground to the line input ground/neutral. I would not connect the power supply negative output to the printer's frame with the line input ground. The voltage reference in the supply comes from the output side of the supply and if you tie it to the power line ground you're liable to be adding power line noise to the DC ground. But if yo

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

I didn't notice Tom used the AC silicone heater back in 2015 since in the video he didn't specify exactly the type of silicone heater he used here So that got me thinking that he might just use a regular dc silicone heater and wired through the ac like in the drawing he made.

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

Here is my rough sketch of using a single main outlet instead of two, and how frame are wired as well. Basically the heated bed will leech the power from the same wire as the psu

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

I guess this is where AC heatbed will start to take over. I've found keenovo's silicone heating pad in aliexpress and considering how much stuff I need to include just for the sake of using ac heatbed can be a bit overwhelming. How much power in amps does the ac heatbed pulls if it is rated at around 500w and powered using 240v? Any temperature drops if for example a big standing fan or the prin

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

How fast those keenovo AC heaters perform let's say from 30c to 100c? Then with the AC heaters, we typically could go slightly thinner wires probably 18 or 20awg right? My main problem with the pcb dc heated bed was that of course, underpowered and often beaten by a fan blowing onto it thus cooling the whole bed down even further. I'm waiting for a cotton insulation sheet to insulate underneat

by sarf2k4 - General

AC Heated bed? - 6 years ago

Hi, I wanted to ask most of electronic experts there although I myself not one but might be a good question and idea, is it possible use an AC heater cartridge for heated bed instead of a large pcb board that most often either not up to spec or too high in current? For example using a kettle's heating element, flattened and sandwiched with silicone cover at bottom and aluminum on top, a relay t

by sarf2k4 - General

cat5 cables - 7 years ago

Hi, i am wondering about cat5 cables to be used with 3d printer, I kind of wanting to do better wire management with the rj45 and cat5 cable. based on tom here he used a multi flex core cat5 cable (ir i remember correctly) and it is possible but not using the rj45 plugs. I intend to use it on hotend parts because a lot of wires there to manage

by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices

Re: optimal layer vs steps/mm? - 7 years ago

I see, let's say my optimal layer height is 0.04mm = 8/200, can I achieve 0.02 multiplier if I were to use a 1/32 driver?

by sarf2k4 - General

optimal layer vs steps/mm? - 7 years ago

I'm sorry if this is a duplicate post, but I've been wondering about this thing for quite a while now. Prusa mk2 uses tr8*8 acme, while one of my printer uses the same acme screws; has 8mm lead per revolution. The setting of steps/mm in the firmware config should be at 400 steps. I checked the prusa calculator for optimal z layer height it only requires 25 steps to have a full mm travel. the

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: [Q]About threaded rods and leadscrews for 8mm diameter - 8 years ago

It's hard to get a good threaded rods here in my place, as for my supplied threaded rods, both of them at the end of the threaded rods were bent slightly, I don't know why, this is one of the main reason why I am considering to change to leadscrews, found one 8mm diameter with 1mm pitch and 1mm lead

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: Need help in Bowden for Slic3r - 8 years ago

I printed mine last night, and the finish were significantly better on my direct drive, although with 0.2, it almost closes the gap while 0.1 at the head starting 47mm, still does better than bowden but not better than 0.2mm About the teflon tube there, the hotend supplied with the kit here is like e3d's cyclop/chimera mashed with e3d lite 6 where the teflon tube will go into the heater block on

by sarf2k4 - Printing

Re: [Q]About threaded rods and leadscrews for 8mm diameter - 8 years ago

ahh... a bit complicated about the start thingy, I understand about what the start means, but unsure about the "load balance" between those start and frictions. Also got confused with the dumpstercnc.com leadscrew nut spec title/name there

by sarf2k4 - General

Re: Need help in Bowden for Slic3r - 8 years ago

Results are here, the finishing are still the same and during observation of printing the infills, they're pretty consistent and good except reaching the eye height there, the infill thread started to lose a little bit for a while. Retraction at 3mm produces stringing and blobs between the body and tail. The head are still the same, unable to close the gap properly. Got any ideas on this one?

by sarf2k4 - Printing