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Wow,
Awesome. I will have to give this a shot once I get all mced into my new home.
I just spotted a nice looking cheap sanguinololu derivative:
The Azteeg. It has fan support built in like the Melzi. It is only $75, very cheap! The stepper drivers have to be bought seperately though.
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Very Cool Nophead,
Have you done any test runs yet? It she working well?
What did you have to do to deactivate LCD support and EEPROM mode? Was it simply a matter of changing a few variables?
I emailed the eBay seller on the availability of 1284 Melzi Boards and got no response. The eBay page lists them as 644 boards. Though if the 644 can run Marlin, it might be worth it still! Just know
by
Idolcrasher
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General
That's what kills me man, I find plenty of examples of folks (such as yourself) running Marlin on 644p boards (not Melzi); but plenty of words of warning that the Melzi 644p will not run Marlin. I would love to get a conclusive answer (with reasoning) on this.
I sometimes seriously feel like the only person using a Melzi board. They don't even seem to actually be for sale anywhere! What is th
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Ok Gents,
Me- "Hi everyone, my name is Adam and I'm a Melzi user addicted to wanting to run Marlin"
Supportive Crowd (in tandem)- "Hi Adam"
I got a Melzi board with my RepRapPro Huxley kit:
Melzi Wiki Entry
The Melzi is pretty snazzy; it is basically a sexy, compact sanguinololu (adds features like fan control)
The newest strain of Melzi boards hitting the block are coming with a 1284 Atmeg
by
Idolcrasher
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General
I have a pentiant for using cheap filament and being bitten by it
Cheap filament "overhang lifts" like it is going out of style!
I have dual g-code controlled fans and still have trouble battling overhang lift with www.repraper.com filament.
I dig the idea of full blast fans during overhang printing! Got any other advice?
by
Idolcrasher
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General
@WildBill Send me a PM when your Kickstarter is up. I will back you.
Plus, then I get to compare your wonder solution to the QU-BD effort
by
Idolcrasher
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General
WildBill Wrote:
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> It is a poor design all together, the motor
> selection is wrong the spacing is huge the
> direction of nozzles is wrong, sure it will work
> fine on a replicator with space next to a bed or a
> bed moving in x and y but not only y. You added a
> ton of moving mass, and moving mass is a reprap's
> prima
by
Idolcrasher
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General
richrap Wrote:
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> Idolcrasher Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > Rich,
> >
> > I put in for the double extruder pre-made. Any
> > chance your quick fit x-Carriage could get an
> > adapter to carry one ore two of these
> extruders?
> >
> >
by
Idolcrasher
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General
richrap Wrote:
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> I decided to go for the dual kit with resistors a
> few days back, it looks like the MK7/8 so should
> work ok, I'm not a fan of direct drive, but it's
> quite a nice setup for dual extrusion and very
> reasonable cost, it's looks like they are doing
> very well with the campaign, so should be able to
>
by
Idolcrasher
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General
@RichRap I love how you sneak monumental, precedent setting work into a three sentence post between printing cups for a little girl birthday party and a puzzle ball. So you are successfully using a Rasberry Pi as your PC interface to Pronterface!? I sure hope you make a nifty how-to/lessons learned post!
My head rushes with ideas of touch screens and fully self-contained fully-featured RepRap
by
Idolcrasher
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Developers
CSM Wrote:
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> Thank you very much for sharing this! I stumbled
> across this thread and started to use "The Brim"
> and I have no curling! I would much rather use a
> little bit more plastic for "The Brim" then to
> have to scrap a half or full print!
>
> Thank you!
No prob CSM!,
I'snt it a great feeling to successfu
by
Idolcrasher
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General
You the man Nudel,
Thanks for your thoughts!
I am now a bid mdpc-x fan! I am going to get a bunch of their sleeving to keep my wires clean!
I like your thoughts on a separate soldering stations. And a semi-clean room/area for the printers to live. Though in my case the clean area might just end up the opposite side of a garage
I have the same wire strippers and love them! They work like
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Sound Wrote:
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> Hello, a native brim feature was implemented in
> Slic3r! Next version will be out soon.
That is so awesome!!!! "The Brim" TM is going official on Slic3R!!!! Buwahahahahhaaha!!!!
It is awesome to hear that each object (when printing many things at once) will get a Brim as well! FANTASTIC!
The continuous attachme
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Hi All,
I am moving from Guam (a tiny island in the Middle West of the Pacific Ocean) to beautiful California.
My Home Workshop (and wife and children ) are coming with me!
Since I will be re-building my workshop, I wanted to draw inspiration from you fine gentlemen on: What "goes into" the "ideal" home RepRap workshop?
While we are at it, why not post a pic of your workshop for the world
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Hi All,
I have seen a few magic instances online where folks have 3D printed molds to put Sugru (silicon rubber putty) into and then bolt together (allowing to cure overnight) in order to cast custom silicon rubber parts.
Headphone Jack Example:
Custom Coupling Example:
(I like how this was bolted together)
I was wondering if any of you super geniuses out in TV Land might be able t
by
Idolcrasher
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General
I have found that small PLA parts print well on hot glass. Larger PLA parts like to lift and warp on hot glass.
Blue Tape on hot glass make prints stick to the plate fiercely!
by
Idolcrasher
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General
The RepRap wiki says Polycarbonate flows @ 300C and calls Polycarbonate a low warping material. So why do you call it a high warping material? Because it warps on you? PLA warps on me when I don't use it properly
The wiki mentions a bed temp of 85 C printing onto Kapton, I am guessings that your +100C bed temp is high.
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Removed repost.
by
Idolcrasher
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General
@ttsalo So Polycarbonate Filament was added to the RepRap Wiki in March (3 months ago):
Is it really that new? Or just new to me?
It's used to make bullet proof glass?
Did you get your batch from RichRap's experimental batch?
Look bud, I made no claims about "high warping materials" I was speaking generically about PLA and ABS, aka the common materials. Two forums pages of text and other fo
by
Idolcrasher
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General
discocyborg Wrote:
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> +1 to the brim.
>
> I found out about this technique about a month ago
> and it's nearly eliminated close to all my warp +
> curl. would love it if there was a way to include
> a small brim when printing multiple objects at
> once.
@discocyborg Exactly! That is what I am hoping comes out of this
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Wow!,
That's a lot of loops! It's really cool you gave it a go! WOW that is a lot of warping force!
That object does not look like it should have that crazy amount LIFT! I don't want to out my foot in my mouth, but I feel like I could print that object in PLA with my heatbed off and get away with minor warp... I would take up that very challenge, but I am moving in to California in a week an
by
Idolcrasher
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General
I can confirm that is an overhang induced problem. I had the same problems with that very item on a machine that would print other parts fantastically. But then again, I am not sure why your square tower would turn out badly too...
Unfortunately, I can't give any personally confirmed good advice on defeating the "lifting overhangs" yet...
I don't want to give you bad advice... but here are
by
Idolcrasher
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General
It is neat to hear someone else acknowledge that extra perimeters means an increase in warping force. I have found this to be VERY TRUE!
I do not think it common knowledge either!
You are going to have to have a cancel out that warping force with an appropriately sized Brim.
***Break***
Silly side thought.
I wonder if a fairly simple equation could be derived; the factors being the bottom
by
Idolcrasher
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General
@ttsalo One more thought!
Crank up the loops man! Lay down a 35-50 loop brim and then come back here and tell us it still warped
If you end up having trouble getting a 15+ loop brim to stick to the plate, then I would blame first layer adhesion problems as a root cause of your trouble.
Let us know
by
Idolcrasher
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General
ttsalo Wrote:
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> Ok, let's take a reality check here. Yes, "the
> brim" will offer some extra adhesion for the
> object's first layer. SOME. Not infinite. The
> reality has not changed, as soon as the warping
> forces exceed the grip, the object will rip the
> brim off the build plate and warp. Like this:
>
>
> na
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Slic3r is my choice slicing program. Support structure in slic3r is still... "teething" though...
by
Idolcrasher
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General
GreenAtol Wrote:
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> The stated goal of the reprap is to make a santa
> clause like machine that can make practically
> anything, including itsself. Exactly how do we
> expect to get there by farting around with flimsy
> plastics printed at crappy resolutions?
Hahahahaha, awesome. Santa Clause like machine
I agree, shoot f
by
Idolcrasher
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General
richrap Wrote:
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> I used the 'Brim' setting in my number counter,
> 150mm x 150mm single print, did the job perfectly,
> thanks!
>
> [3.bp.blogspot.com]
> AAAAAAAABbM/7x_aazB69TU/s400/Brim_setting_100Block
> .jpg
>
> [4.bp.blogspot.com]
> AAAAAAAABbw/6UD1J_y89lI/s640/Very_Pink.jpg
Wow,
I am flattered to hear
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Mazaw Wrote:
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> Does it still work with a glass covered heated
> bed? After some great warp-free prints past few
> weeks, I finally did a large plate and had some
> lifting, I'm in love with how easy the prints are
> to remove from the glass after it cools but I'd
> rather not spend another 15 continuous hours only
> to f
by
Idolcrasher
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General
Saw this on kickstarter and thought the community should know: KickStarter Campaign For Dual Extruder
by
Idolcrasher
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General