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No real commercial aspirations for at least 3+ years. I am tied to my current line of work for now.
The laser cutter is pretty much something I have wanted to help me fuel my "Maker" passions for a while now. I almost can't believe I actually made it this far and ordered it
At $3.5K ($4k+ with water cooler and accessories etc) she is a pricey toy to have "Hobby" in the title
Then again, Ep
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Idolcrasher
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Hi all,
Thanks to all the kind folks who bought RepRap parts and kits from me I was able to order a Laser Cutter
BuWahahahaha! /* Doctor Evil Pinkie Finger
I scraped and saved and then bit the bullet and ordered a 5th Gen Full Spectrum Hobby Laser
Truth is that I have spent so much time working this Half/Full-Time Hobby/Job (on top of a full time Space Systems Masters Degree) that I bar
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Idolcrasher
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Take that up with Sound lol. I proposed something similar on the Slic3r github and did not get any traction...
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Idolcrasher
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You got the idea. It is not a single setting. "Width over thickness" is your extrusion width divided by layer height.
Usually a width over thickness ratio lower than 1.8ish can be troublesome.
I have played with super high and low ratios though. You will be surprised what is possible when you tinker with your printer and its settings
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Idolcrasher
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Set your own width. Try a 2.2 "width over thickness"
Example:
0.2mm layer height
0.44mm width
For your first layer, consider trying something thicker and wider (but still a 2.2ish ratio) for better adhesion.
Example:
0.3mm layer height
0.66mm width
You can shoot for thinner heights and thicknesses; there comes a point where you will not be adding quality and only adding time to your prints
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Idolcrasher
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Version 0.9.7 had a problem that put bumps and "measles" on objects. If you were using .9.7 that is where the measles came from.
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Idolcrasher
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I agree Iceman. While I was a version 0.9.1 user, I had a whole bag of tricks to make that possible
0.9.8 is is working "out of the box." The parts are coming out nice and solid (when they should be ) . It is refreshing.
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Idolcrasher
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Don't get me wrong, I love the RepRapPro style hot-end. I was just pointing out its low rate of adoption. I think folks would love it if they tried it.
On the thought of insulating the heater block... I have been thinking about the possible effects of a 3mm thick layer of kapton (read: many layers) on the heater block... That is the thickness often used to insulate parts and pieces of satell
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Idolcrasher
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Well, it shows the Rpetier guys like Slic3r at least
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Idolcrasher
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I have been using it for some time now. I love it.
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Idolcrasher
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Repetier 0.83 is available now.
This version comes with Slic3r 0.9.8 integrated into the program.
If Pronterface is the only Host program you have tried, you should check out Repetier. It is a more resource intensive program, but it gives you a 3D view of your G-Code as you print (it is pretty cool )
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Idolcrasher
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The new release of Repetier is now packaged with Slic3r 0.9.8
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Idolcrasher
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tinkercad is super basic, but it runs right in your web browser. You would be surprised what you can get done with it. It also lets you directly inport and edit STLs which is nice
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Idolcrasher
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Lol, that's funny. I have used that method to pull crud out if all-metal hotends
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Idolcrasher
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I agree. Try bumping up your reference voltage a tiny bit.
What electronics are you using?
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Idolcrasher
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a few different possibilities.
Your stepper drivers might be overheating. Your pulleys could be slipping on your stepper motor shafts.
Check your stepper driver voltages: you usually want a reference voltage of around 0.4v (the cheap Chinese versions use a Vref of 0.1).
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Idolcrasher
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Exciting news in the DIY 3D printing world: Slic3r Beta 0.9.8 has been released... and it doesn't suck!
Slic3r is an open source slicing program (duh... ) that takes a 3D model (an STL) and converts it into a tool path for your 3D printer.
Slic3r is much more user friendly than some of the other slicing programs on the block. Slic3r is also very quick to generate G-Code. Slic3r can genera
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Idolcrasher
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I found an announcement he made saying the MakiBox goes open source after he sells 1000 units.
I dig your electronics work btw
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Idolcrasher
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Traumflug Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You have a seemingly fast response time, because
> you measure the temperature inside the cartridge.
I don't think the temp is measured in the cartridge. I believe the temp is measured in the heater block beside the cartridge.
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Idolcrasher
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Hell, we are all merely speculating on his capabilities and resources. If he really does own factories, or if he has a ton of money/resources/time to spend on legitimate "basic" RepRap research then potentially we all benefit from his successes.
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Idolcrasher
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Well, then allow me to shift gears and suggest that everyone with the ability/desire to do so, contact the MakiBox creator and offer their expertise on the subject.
If I am correct in believing that is an open source project, and we all want dirt cheap 3D printing capabilities; are we not better served as a community to help this designer?
Your thoughts?
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Idolcrasher
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Lol, I dig your fix. I am way too OCD to not have every little thing in perfect condition... It makes me an "ineffective maker" sometimes
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Idolcrasher
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Here is a video of the nozzle in action
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Idolcrasher
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Interesting point on the 40 watts. I do imagine thermal runaway on one of those would be... interesting
Do you recommend a particular glass rope glue? or exhaust putty? From reading the various "feather-cap" blogs, the latest intel I have on those products are that they are expensive and don't work as well (hard to remove) as simple aluminum tape. You have rekindled my interest though. What
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Idolcrasher
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Start with slic3r 9.1 until something newer than 9.7 comes out. There are some nasty bugs in Slic3r 9.2 - 9.7
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Idolcrasher
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FYI: The Hong Kong based group "RepRap Discount" is selling heater cartridges on eBay. Heater Cartridges on eBay
I have not tried these particular heater cartridges, but I would love to know what people think of them.
Their stuff is cheaply made, but has always worked for me. They have very prompt customer service. If you are going to sell your soul to the devil and buy from China, start by
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Idolcrasher
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the real plus for me regarding the heater cartridges is the fact that they are very smooth and round and are easier to stuff into a heater block.
It is also nice that they traditionally have some wires coming off of them, so I get to skip the step where I crimp wires onto the resistor. The wires are short and need extending though...
Anyone got a guesstimate as to the length of sevice life of
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Idolcrasher
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It makes me chuckle a little to think that a few RepRap Icons (nod to NopHead and Greg Frost) are here arguing the semantics of the term efficiency.
Don't waste your brain power on this, go work on your next awesome designs!
It is my belief that heater cartridges will eventually be accepted as more effective than heater resistors
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Idolcrasher
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Start with a StepRapPro Mendel kit. You will build and commission it yourself and gain much knowledge of the hobby. With that knowledge, you will be able to build your own machines.
You will be able to rapidly prototype parts on it and print parts for fun as well.
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Idolcrasher
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I agree that Prusa does not owe any one anything... But much like admiring a painting by a master artist, it is often more desirable to enjoy a finished work.
I applaud his work and hope he finishes this symphony.
I remain hopeful that the i3 build instructions will receive some polish and form. Maybe after his new hot-end is released?
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Idolcrasher
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