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QuoteFound a photo - that guy used it as a strain relief.
The seems really clever, but remember those ptfe tubes will melt at much above 245C. If that happens the thermistor is going to short to the heater block. Might work better if you replace the ptfe tubing with kapton tape as shown in the E3D build instructions - kapton's melting temperature is much higher.
QuoteI added some "Arctic Si
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crispy1
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General
It's been discussed before. It's feasible but most likely not high reliability. The most likely issue is if there is any plastic residue on the tip it will not make good electrical contact.
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crispy1
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Developers
Anyone up for filing disputes on this patent application, since we discussed this method extensively in this forum?
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crispy1
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Developers
QuoteI pre-ordered the kraken hot end, and Im very excited, I already have a water cooled hot end so I should be able to provide some useful feedback on it.
The thing that's scaring me away from the Kraken is the water cooling. Well, I also don't need 4 hotends, but mostly the water cooling.
As far as I can tell he's using PC water cooling parts. PC water cooling systems are static - they get
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crispy1
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Another happy E3D customer here. I've got a few hours (10-15 maybe) on my E3D printing PLA from a couple of different sources. I've had zero problems with jams or any other kind of issue. I've printed fast, slow, and everything in between. Since I run a bowden I retract roughly 5mm and this hasn't caused any issues. Filament flow is precise and stops on a dime when it retracts. I've printed
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crispy1
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How about sharing some actual technical details (since this is a technical subforum) instead of writing what sound like press releases? Keep the chest thumping for your own website.
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crispy1
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Developers
Quotewilliaap performed an experiment and he is reporting his results. I don't see anywhere where anyone said "I recommend you use these chemicals."
I don't have an issue with people experimenting with stuff, provided they are informed about what they're getting into, know the risks, and have experience and training to perform the tasks safely.
I agree the OP didn't explicitly recommend that an
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crispy1
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@KDog, I agree with everything you said. This stuff is dangerous, and no one should be recommending or even discussing it without making the dangers of these chemicals abundantly clear to everyone who might read the discussions. That's why I included the links to the MSDS.
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crispy1
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QuoteJ-Heads don't leak unless they are faulty.
I have had some leak PLA from in between the mate between the brass and PEEK, if the brass is not adequately torqued down. If it's not fully torqued, after a few heating and cooling cycles it will loosen up enough to leak some PLA down the side of the brass block and onto the bottom face. I wouldn't really call this faulty, since all you need to
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crispy1
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QuoteI don't have a lack of space to fit a 4cm fan
Just because you have space doesn't mean everyone else does.
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crispy1
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QuoteI didn't get why a 3cm fan was used with a snap fit shroud.
Because it's smaller than a 40mm fan? Why would Sanjay choose a fan that is larger than required and moves more air than required? It's a waste of space to do that.
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crispy1
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I looked up dioxane on Wikipedia ( ) and looked up an MSDS for it ( ). It looks like nasty stuff, worse than acetone.
QuoteWikipedia
This compound is irritating to the eyes and respiratory tract. Exposure may cause damage to the central nervous system, liver and kidneys.[7] Accidental worker exposure to 1,4-dioxane has resulted in several deaths.[8] Dioxane is classified by the IARC as a Gr
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crispy1
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QuoteI've bought from reprapdiscount; on the whole it was a very pleasant transaction. At no point did they raise any issues related to my race, nationality, or government's policies, which as a customer I really appreciated.
This is far funnier than it appears on a first read. Well played!
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crispy1
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QuoteOh, I see. And thanks for your opinion - that's what I'm looking for - to see if this is worth doing as a product.
I'm more interested in this as a method to detect and correct XY skips. My extruder never misses a beat.
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crispy1
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@ ohioplastics
Your supposed ancestry doesn't change the fact that your comments are extremely racist and xenophobic. You're not only embarrassing yourself, you're tarnishing the name of your company. I hope you realiize this is a publicly-viewable forum and everyone on the internet can see what a flaming xenophobe you are.
Just because you can't compete on quality, price, or customer service
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crispy1
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Obviously we're expected to read his mind.
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crispy1
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Most likely the problem is in your Z axis, not your Y or X axes. Give this (https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/sh/701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d/1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e) a read and see if what you are seeing looks like what's shown in the article.
But for what it's worth, the hardness and surface coating (ie chromed) of smooth rods will not have much impact on their stiffness.
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crispy1
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QuoteCareful. Comments like that can lead to a ban.
Can we vote him off the island?
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crispy1
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If you have something to share please post it to the forum instead of trying to drive traffic to your site. What you are doing is spam, IMO.
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crispy1
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Another happy RepRapDiscount customer here. Bought quite a bit of stuff from them and never had any issues. Tech and after sales support is better than 90% of the companies I do business with.
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crispy1
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So now that the working week has started, anyone seen a response from Afinia?
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crispy1
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QuoteThis thread indicates that it has worked well for the Bukobot
Plenty of people got good results using T5 belts, too. Doesn't mean it's a good idea.
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crispy1
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It's not anti-backlash like GT2 so you don't see many people use it.
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crispy1
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Also not impressed with support in RC1. It's using far more material than is necessary, it will be very difficult to remove. The edge of support is right up against the object, so it will bond to the object.
Most importantly, enclosing the support in an outer perimeter makes it impossible to remove in some circumstances.
0.9.10b support:
RC1 support:
This example shows support that will b
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crispy1
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QuoteAnybody else run into this?
Apparently the "avoid crossing over perimeters" option can cause a 10-fold increase in slicing time... Whodathunk.
A couple more issues I've run into... and
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crispy1
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Anybody else run into this?
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crispy1
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This is interesting, but I wonder about the feasibility of feeding an entire spool of out-of-spec filament through a draw plate. By the time you are done setting up some powered feed to draw it through for you, and your time, I think it's cheaper in the end to just get good filament to begin with.
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crispy1
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There is excess moisture in the plastic. You can tell from the bubbles/imperfections in the printed part. Your weak layer adhesion and overall poor strength are additional indicators.
Try drying the plastic for several hours at 70C or so.
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crispy1
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QuoteI would love to use KISSlicer but can't seem to figure out all the settings
Heh. Unlike Slic3r, the defaults in KISS are insane. It took me about 2 weeks of intensive work to get it behaving like I wanted it to. Part of that was figuring out what settings did what, and part of it was running experiments to optimize settings.
The forums can be a big help in figuring out what each setting
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crispy1
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QuoteI rendered it with your .ini and I didn't get the holes you show in your render. When I preview it in 2D pronterface, I don't get the holes either. Are you sure it isn't a rendering problem?
When tjbl used some other program to preview the code he saw the same artifacts I did...
Anyway what's more interesting to me is I tried printing the Slic3r-generated torture test. The columns look si
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crispy1
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