Pretty nice finish, I was wondering about the discrepancies between each layer height with a thread rod. I noticed what you said about the bent rods, they were moving all the structure with them. So I am trying to get them straight using a small wooden construction full of nuts (as a challenge, not because practicality; buying new rods is cheaper). But I was wondering if after getting pretty straby eried - Reprappers
Howdy, Has anyone replaced hardware store threaded rods by leadscrew and captured the results after/before? I am wondering how much the imperfections over the rods affect the print resultsby eried - Reprappers
Encontre barras de M8 en una ferreteria al lado de Yolito, derechas y todo ok. Ahora mi duda es que quizas se obtenga mejor resolucion con un "leadscrew", aunque no he podido encontrar experimentos de uno vs el otro.by eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
Hace tiempo hice una busqueda y encontre que habian unos a 18 USD incluyendo el envio, quizas es útil: [1drv.ms]by eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
:/ sería ideal encontrar algunas de algun acero de mayor grado. Las de sodimac es posible doblarlas facilmenteby eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
Thanks, it is this model I guess these are threaded rods. One is seriously bent, maybe that's the issue. I am going to try to do the aligment with the glass. I was thinking that the problem where the spring couplersby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
But my nozzle visually moves when I rise the Z carriage. Kinda not desired for printed. I haven't printed anything yet... I am still thinking on how to unbend theseby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
Hola, Intento armar una prusa i3, donde puedo encontrar barras de tornillos de al menos 30 cms en santiago? ojala de metricas de 8 mm, vi en Sodimac unas en pulgadas usadas para construccionby eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile
Hi I am assembling a prusa and I noticed that my threaded rods have a bit of bending. That makes all the nozzle to oscilate. I am trying to get these straight with a micrometer and two bearings but maybe its pointless. Are those bad quality and should I buy more? Which ones are good? In my old MakerBot the quality of the rod is outstanding like really high quality precision steel. The Chinese oby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJamesK Nice! At the beginning of the video there's one of the parts with a colour map. Is that a finite element analysis stress map? And if so, what software did you use? With Inventor. I wanted all the parts to be able to mirror for the opposite side, the central part had to be thin (to fit in the bear) but hard to break... and not symmetric and that was giving me issues with that part breby eried - Look what I made!
Quotebob414 The screw axis is also wobbling in mine, predominantly on the right side, I figure that if the z rods do not wobble, the affect is minimized. Since the z axis screw coupling has two screws, pushing the screw to one side, I do not see a solution for that wobble. I have also designed a cover for the electronic board and caps for the end of some of the aluminum frames. Still do not hby eried - Reprappers
I see. Mine does not have that problem after dremelling the piece. However the screw axis wobble. Did you used something special to keep them centered in the spring coupler?by eried - Reprappers
Hi Bob, can you show me a picture of your mod? I noticed something wrong when assembling that part, so I used the dremel to enlarge these holes to avoid the rods to come out. I am still trying to get mine printing with abs, the bed takes ages to heat! and the movement is not so smooth due the linear bearings (support send me 3 more, because there was some missing balls in some of these)by eried - Reprappers
I published all the 3d printed parts here recently:by eried - Look what I made!
Here is a picture: [1drv.ms] Looking the printer from the frontal part, it goes to the left of the bed and it touches the motor. Maybe the pulley thing that goes into the motor is too far away?by eried - Reprappers
I think it was installed reversed. Put it in the other side of the plastic pieceby eried - Reprappers
How thick are the wires you are using, mine improved the time a lot when I replaced them with a big ass wires (AWG14?) original where like AWG18by eried - Prusa i3 and variants
I collected few quirks I found in the manual, it might be useful for someone assembling their kits: Measurement is not using the blue arrow: I have to dremel down these 2 m3*45 and add 2 more washers between the nylon spacer and the fan (to avoid cracking the fan) Any other comment/tips for HIC kits? :/ mine still does not print anything niceby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks RRuser, what kind of quality you get with these settings? (do you have any online photo of your printer/prints?) I am getting very crap prints, constant step skips, jitter from the prusa. My 4 year old makerbot TOM get very nice prints with slow 30 mm/s (with sailfish previous firmware/ when it was called jetty firmware... newer 'accelerated' firmware messes that one too)by eried - Prusa i3 and variants
I have used kapton tape for long years (with my old makerbot tom) without any issue. If I notice any curling I just stop the print and apply a bit of acetone to clean the tape. But now I am worried about how to do that with a new prusa I assembled because the bed never reaches 110C (it takes like 25 mins to 80C, and even I replaced the wire with a big one, stills warms up) so I will try soon wiby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello! I am having some issues configuring my prusa (hictop kit). Can anyone recommend me some values to start playing with: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) // default settings #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,94.4962144} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker 78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATEby eried - Prusa i3 and variants
There is a Little clock in the LCD you don't have to time it. Maybe can you provide a ballpark value just to be sure mine isn't faulty? Like: 50C at 7 minsby eried - Reprappers
Quotesaturn when you say ladder do you mean each layer is offset in the Y direction, forming "stairs" on your printed object? mine is doing that and it's driving me insane. seems to randomly screw up the Y axis around 30% on every print... it randomly will JUMP and I can't see why. I figured maybe the extruder was bumping into the print when it was trying to move... I tried: - adding a Z-liftby eried - Reprappers
I have the same printer and an old MakerBot kit. The MakerBot one was so easy to assemble and use! I am having a hard time trying to print with this hictop prusa. Any comments on the acceleration you are using? I am getting pieces as a ladder in the y direction :/ also the bed takes so long to heat. I replaced the wire with a very thick one but it still takes 20 mins to reach 100C and the wire itby eried - Reprappers