Hi, I was impressed with bigblue and made my own version (a mix of the tilt from bb and iamburneys fanmount) - I have described wiring and mount on thingeverse. Check it out and see if it can solve some of the challenges / i use the same ms for both homing z and x. Brby Aagaard - Ormerod
Also wiping with vinegar has has been a great success for my PLA prints on a 65 degree heat bed.by Aagaard - Ormerod
EDIT: Now it worked. don't know what I did different. Sorry for bothering you! Keep up the great work! I've recently switched to your web interface - everyting seemed fine and dandy. But comming from dc's web interface - I frequently adjust my gcode homing files . Is it possible to upload and replace these on the fly, as it was using dc web interface?by Aagaard - Ormerod
I actually played arround with homing both x and z with the same ms. This design is what i use to home my printer - and it works every time! The nozzle needs to be relatively clean prior to homing, and the print surface has to be plane glass of something the nozzle can slide a bit on. (im printing pla on glas wiped down with vinegar). \\Aagaardby Aagaard - Ormerod
I found that ikea sells 4packs of mirrors with rounded corners in 200x200. They should work just fine. I don't know if this is specific for Danish ikea - I think not.by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi I've tried to do as you said. But i can't seem to get the file onto the sdcard. Not with the webinterface and it is represented with a dot in front of it when trasfered directly to the memorycard.by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi, I did'nt flash but have been restarted the code returned using: Platform Diagnostics: Memory usage: Program static ram used: 40792 Dynamic ram used: 49152 Recycled dynamic ram: 168 Current stack ram used: 1648 Maximum stack ram used: 3704 Never used ram: 4488 Last reset 00:03:02 ago, cause: power up Last software reset code & available RAM: 0x1004, 2868 Error status: 0 Bed probe heightby Aagaard - Ormerod
hi DC, I have the problem that a printjob of 33.4 Mb. makes the printer crash. I've tried two times one with 120 mm to go and today with 20 mm to go! ( printing 220 mm - on with larger z axis). Does anyone else experince this?by Aagaard - Ormerod
I've successfully mounted an ekstra fan (thanks dc)!. I've tried printing with it, and actually discovered that running the fan with the slic3r standard settings wold cause the layers of the print to not melt together. Producing gaps in the print. For those using an ekstra fan (mounted mine with: ), which slic3r setting do you use?by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi, actually DC did a remix of the original gears - leaving a little extra space. I found these worked like a charmby Aagaard - Ormerod
I find that often the print more or less pops off when the print has had time to cool down. The best solution I've tried for getting PLA to stick is wiping the glass with vinegar, and the plastic sticks when heated - and pops right off when cooled. I print with nozzle 190/170 degrees and 70/60 degrees. Edit: I actually remember also having the, sticking to well, problem when cleaning the kaptonby Aagaard - Ormerod
What would the price be? Similiar to the previous version?by Aagaard - Ormerod
Thanks for the speedy reply. I have dismantled and old pc - and have some spare fans. With 4 wires? Do i have to short the to wires, not red and black, to make it work?by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi, I've would like to add and ekstra fan to my ormerod 1. But I can't seem to find any wiring diagram. I use DC's firmaware 0.78x-dc42.by Aagaard - Ormerod
HI Guys, Just thought I would let you know. I followed your advice - tried turning the rods ad all other kinds of stuff without great succes. Then went an printed a new Y-idler-bracket. AND it solved it! I've now succesfully printed without bed compensation! Thanks again! Aagaardby Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi DC, Would it be possible to make and offset parameter in the config file that influences at what height the nozzle is set when automated bed levelling is used - G32?by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi, I'm facing a bit of a conundrum. I've used the day seperating my ormerod and collecting it again. But avast - the problem I was trying to solve persists. I couldn't figure out why I wasn't able to levell by bed. It is a 3 spring connection with an replacement out of alu - when I have tightened the and gotten the two screws closest to the z-axis level (like level as level can be ). I moveby Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi Aesuli, You are right - I'm printing on bare glass, wiped with vinegear. It works great for PLA.by Aagaard - Ormerod
I was wondering - the automated bed compensation G32 (set with the M557 P0 P1 P2 P3 in the config file). How does it actually work - with the IR probe in place i was able to use G31 to set the probe height. Are there a way to do this using a switch? Currently I'm running the G32 command prior to homing z - but it dosen't seem to work properly. When I run the G32 command after homing z, I guess iby Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi Zombie Yes - that worked now the ms is activated and USED by both z and x axis. Thanks a bunch!by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi Guys, I recently started to mod my ormerod så that it would be using microswitches instead of the probe. I've succesfully mounted a ms on the hotend: see picture. (with a lot of help from this forum) This works great - but my initial plan was to make the ms work as endstop for both x and y. Using the bulb and the acryllic xarm as trigger. Is it possibel to make the same ms work as a trigger fby Aagaard - Ormerod
I would be interested in a kit - if you were to resume your production af aluminium arms. Also where can I see your Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks? Thanksby Aagaard - Ormerod
I just updated to the latest firmware by DC - and it solved the problem. Thanks - you guys rock!by Aagaard - Ormerod
Yes - should have included that. I use: 0.78s-alpha-dc42by Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi guys. I've installed a microswitch to zero my z. I've used the the wiring shown here (thanks to KimBrown, He has been very helpfull). But I can't seem to make it work. It goes all the way through the homez: G91 G1 Z15 F1500 G90 G1 X60 Y120 F200 G1 Z-15 F300 S1 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< G92 Z-1 G1 Z0 G1 X100 Y100 F150 G90 It just dosen't seem to cby Aagaard - Ormerod
Printing this part i used an infill density of 50% and rectilinear pattern. I just noticed the setting: "solid infill treshold area" that forces solid infill for areas less than 70 mm^2. Could this be the case for printing the parts with holes, hence lesser treshold area. So somehow slic3r has more "correct" settings when forcing a solid infill. I haven't tried "external perimiters first" thisby Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi, I am experiencing a blop when printing (see picture of mysterious blop ) No, but really I believe that all the bright minds of this forum might be able to explain why my printer produces blops whenever it prints purely rectangular: It seems that whenever it has to print rectangular but with a hole it extrudes just the right amount of plastic? And without the hole it blops. I use slic3r andby Aagaard - Ormerod
Hi All. I've been looking for away to eliminate the blop that occurs when the excess filament are "dripping" out on layer change. This seam or line of blops are, a minor thing but none the less annoying. I've changed the speeds, and it is obvious that printing at higher speeds gives a bigger blop. But could this somehow be avoided. Changing settings in Slic3r? A mysterious combination of speeby Aagaard - Ormerod
Allright. I guess I'll have to buy a thermocouple thermometer. And repeat the investigation. Ebay here I come! Thanks for your thoughts!by Aagaard - Ormerod