if you do need to reassign a pin it isn't trivial unfortunately - the thread I mentioned is this one where the pin used for the z-probe didn't work, dc42 modified the firmware to use a different pin as a test. Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Well spotted MrCrispi - quite a few people fell foul of SD card problems early on (but I guess those threads are buried now). Ian, maybe you should add "throw out the supplied SD card and buy a new one" to commissioning instructions (unless you've sourced another type that works now) - it seems to be a very common source of problems... Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
I think that you may have problem on your duet - the temperature should show as absolute zero if there's an open circuit - if yours isn't changing when you remove the thermistor then the resistance isn't being read properly. I think someone had a similar issue, and (I think) dc42 remapped one of the pins - using a different pin for thermistor input may help you to get to the bottom of your probby rayhicks - Ormerod
have you looked at the contents of the files? Maybe Catia's is text and the others binary? If so then maybe nothing is lost... Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
I'm having no problem printing ABS on mine (I have the Alpine ATX PSU), I checked my ambient temperature this morning and it's around 15°C with the room heating turned off and the bed does make it to a reported 100 (I have the new firmware with updated thermistor betas, so this reported temperature is likely to be near the truth, I'll be getting an IR thermometer later for peace of mind though).by rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi JVMelo - the bed axes make sense if you stand at the end of the machine with the Y motor nearest to you and the Z post on the left and look down on the bed - 0,0 (x=0, y=0) is the bottom left of the bed looking from this position - so moving the head to X=0 sends it to the left, postive values send it across to the right. Positive values of Y move the table toward you, and have the effect thaby rayhicks - Ormerod
Astute - maybe you should try repetier host , I've been using this almost exclusively on my mac - it has a very slick and useful set of controls, as well as a host of other features (including some configuration pages that let you set it up to take advantage of DC's USB fix without having to recompile). I've attached a screengrab (it's in the middle of a USB print and is showing the buffered mby rayhicks - Ormerod
Looking good Markus - good job you didn't cut your belt to length! - I think I probably have just about enough extra length to try this anyhow (if you have release it when you've tested it of course) , if my belt is too short I can just clamp it somewhere else on the bed I guess Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
there you go -a picture *does* paint a thousand wordsby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotevictors Another worrying thing. The electronics also heat up. The CPU is now sitting at 47C. Max temperature over entire board is 55C. I think you guys need to rethink the bed-heater bus plus electronics away from the Duet. something along these lines? Is ambient 27°C a good thing or a bad thing (ambient 8°C wher eim typing in my outhouse while smoking) Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
indeed treth -the firmware is now somewhere around version 1.0 imo, definitely worth the effort of updatingby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotearnauld31 I did however score some points when I printed a bunk bed for my daughter's Sylvanian family... Lol, I need to try that to get my people on board - the test pieces and work pieces just don't cut it do they?by rayhicks - Ormerod
@ treth, I think the epoxies in the pipe cement I use are what makes it work so well (and the UP! srpb that you seem to be describing is also probably epoxy based as are carbon fibre and glass fibre solution that people have posted on the forum - and that hunch is what made me try it to start with). Slic3r has the same capabilities as you describe Quotetreth Their software prints a base layer tby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Dave, I've been printing only ABS for a while (no bigger than 5cm by 5 cm though), I'm doing it with the local heating turned off (we have "climate control " heating/ac style ceiling heating which blows hot or cold and the printer is pretty much directly underneath) it gets pretty cool in the room, probably as low as 15°C at times. Before I updated to dc's weekend fixes, which included theby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotevictors :-) Big smiles over here ;-) I have programmed version 57 with Pronter mod. Working great. My SD image did not have the homex/y/z.g files. Loaded it and now everything works.Just doing a quick snowman.g print. Moves and sounds just like SD card print. Great work. It's great to hear it singing like that, eh? - I like listening to circles best dc really has worked wonders over thby rayhicks - Ormerod
Thumbs up on adding the picture- it helps to have an idea of what's going on *especially* since you can't see inside (I used the end of my calipers as a depth gauge, but still wasn't sure if I'd twisted it enough until it buckled)by rayhicks - Ormerod
the inertia may be irrelevant, but the momentum and impulse are going to be higher at the higher speed whether acceleration is the same or not, surely, and I'd expect that to cause an increase in rattling on direction change (but then I just got a D in physics, which shows my physical expectations aren't to be trusted ) Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
you can find it in "ormerod master" on github (can''t find the link at the moment, but here's a pdf from the copy I downloaded): - hmm on actually opening the pdf, I see it isn't the shipping nozzle, but I guess that the internals will have stayed the same - I successfully made one that had the internal chamfer of a standard ground 2mm jobber's drill bit and it works pretty well, so I wouldn'tby rayhicks - Ormerod
it's 0.5mm internal diameter, M5 external thread, stainless steel -not sure what the nozzle diameter governs really - doesn't seem to be be involved in layer height, I presume it's just extrusion width (slic3r's manual says that setting extrusion widths thinner than nozzle diameter is "undefined" iirc) Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
looks like there are two buffers for serial, the larger one is used and defined in /Duet-master/Archive_Files/eclipse_examples/ArduinoDueCore/src/core/USB/CDC.cpp (which seems to be used for serialUSB ) : - #define CDC_SERIAL_BUFFER_SIZE 512), the other is presumably not used for USB (since I'm not overflowing it when sending it 255 bytes) - it's size is defined in /Duet-master/Archive_Files/eclby rayhicks - Ormerod
I'll be printing one of these excellent mods asap, but since Markus pointed out the problem I've been using a much lower-tech solution (which has held up for a few hundred grams of ABS and is ultra-slimline). I applied a strip of Kapton tape across the lower part of the fan pictured printing a threadless ballscrew in ABS on Marley KS10 bed coating (there's some motion blur):by rayhicks - Ormerod
Thanks Markus - I really should learn how to read !!! Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
Just a reminder that your fix works for repetier host USB comms too, the critical settings in repetier's printer options seem to be turning off "ping-pong" and setting the buffer size ("receive cache") to a larger amount than default. The default is 63 bytes, repetier's hints state that older arduinos had this limit but that many newer firmwares use 127 bytes - 63 gives a lot of stuttering stilby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotedc42 4. Getting the nozzle height above the bed at z=0 right is critical for first layer adhesion. If in doubt, heat up the bed, put the nozzle at x=100 y=100, then lower the nozzle until it grips a piece of standard 80gsm paper against the bed not too loosely. Then do G92 Z0, then print. I do something similar - I lower by 0.1 until it just starts to grip the paper (my photocopy paper is eby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Tracyb - it's surprising that the extruder heater is turning off - do you have an intermittent connection on your thermistor (it would read a temperature of -273ish which would then cause the firmware to turn the heater off, but I think it then latches off if it shut down for that reason). It may be worth checking though. Also maybe try reslicing and disable any temperature commands in slic3by rayhicks - Ormerod
Is this a "localisation" problem or does it hold for UK/us convention of using a dot to separate the decimal?by rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi treth, thanks for that - splicing does look increasingly redundant! I ordered some slides from igus earlier as it happens for my reworking of Y. I didn't go for any of their belted options tho , just a metre of profile (25 quid) and some carriages at a fiver each Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
oops - that saved me some expense on ebay Cool, thanks for the link Ian Cheers Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
I printed my drive gear at 0.24 a couple of days ago, then my driven gear at 0.12 yesterday - the combination of two new gears made a huge difference (and it's why I printed the same thing today since I know what it looks like at various resolutions) - I didn't have time to print one of the threadless ballscrews that Ian pointed out before, but I've got one sliced and have the bearings on order tby rayhicks - Ormerod
Anyone know how to make a closed loop belt using T2.5 as supplied on the ormerod? I'm considering a (radical) departure from the current Y table and would like to use a closed loop with a tensioner to remove sources of Y error. Maybe just having two working end-clamps would be enough rahter than one end working end-clamp and a meshed clamp as at present, but any hints on splicing would be inteby rayhicks - Ormerod