I've abandoned the clips altogether and tape the glass down to the mdf- this has the advantage that there's no snagging and no slippage, with the clips alone, the heater, heat spreader and glass hold together firmly, but can slip relative to the mdf /carriage . Using the tape I get much better vertical surfaces. For the nozzle height, I screw I n the brass end of the guide tube as far as it wiby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Carnivalius - I didn't have the ethernet connection initially, and printed exclusively through repetier on my mac, or pronterface, printing through their "print" buttons and got blobby prints (as did markbee) - then Ian mentioned in irc that print quality is better when printing direct from SD card in this post I've got a side by side comparison of snowmen printed in repetier - the one on theby rayhicks - Ormerod
@dc42 -I had the same failure to execute config.g (although I had no problem writing to the card, or executing g-code from it) so probably had the same problem as you - I no longer have the problem. Unfortunately I can't pinpoint exactly why - I'd presumed it had gone away with a firmware update a few days ago - it might just be that it coincided with me changing my SD card. I actually thoughby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hmm... it's almost certain that if the 5V in is less than 5V, that the +5V net will be too low to allow the 3.3V regulator to provide the full 3.3V (the dropout of 1.2 at 800mA is for a bigger beast than the one used on the board I think) . The diodes that isolate the USB and the ATX 5V in both drop more than half a volt, making the net be 4.45 at best (if the USB is 5.0) - if the USB is say 4.by rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Mark, Ian tends to reply faster here or on the irc channel, but does also reply by mail (eventually). I decided to buy a card from t3dp3d too - mainly so I can use the printer while I return my board for replacement (it has the power and ethernet issue, but all else is fine) - you should be aware that the t3dp3d card has a different board population (it includes the 5v from atx connectors amby rayhicks - Ormerod
@treth - just asked ian and it appears it's other homing issues that are addressed - but the Y issue is being looked at. In the meantime: - If I'm in a hurry (all the time these days...), I home Z at roughly where the print will be, then move the head to somewhere near the x/y origin and tell the printer that that is home (in repetier host for mac I use the "set home" button) - essentially it'by rayhicks - Ormerod
@treth - I think that the y probe axis crash after bed levelling has been addressed in the latest firmware (noticed it uploaded last night but was too busy printing to try it out ) - I'm only presuming this as Ian asked me if I had the problem in irc yesterday, and the latest post refers to his notes on homing problems ... presumably this is the first time you've levelled the bedby rayhicks - Ormerod
I used one of the bulldog clips snugged up to the rib and clamping the belt end to the main belt - seems to work fine.by rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Chris, Does the fan come on when you power up the atx? Do the heaters work? All of these rely on the 12V , and might help reprap diagnose quicker. Just in case- might be worth checking you have negative coming in on the upper cable and positive on the lower one (dum b suggestion but cheap to check) Rayby rayhicks - Ormerod
after Ian pointed out in irc that files print better from the SD card rather than over USB, I tried, and they're remarkably better - below is my picture of two )black) snowmen - the one enclosed in the outline is printed from SD, the one on the left is over USB - like Markus, I had blobs and a cookie-cutter outline - treth, did you print yours from SD?by rayhicks - Ormerod
also, when you erase and reset, the duet appears as a bossa port (not a due anymore) - on my (xp) machine, I right click "my computer" choose "manage" tehn select device manager-> ports to check which COM port has been allocated this time around. After the flash is successful, it reappears as a due, generally on the port it had before the reset. I downloaded bossa earlier for my mac (to savby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Markus, I was about to post something similar (and treth has mentioned this in another thread I think) - my Y axis takes off in the wrong connection after setting the bed compensation too (generally I edit the homing commands out of gcode files to run them after I've manually homed and compensated). In repetier host you can edit teh file you're about to run (you can also kill a file when it iby rayhicks - Ormerod
@repraprobbie, x should home using the z probe (there's a horizontal lug on the clamping piece that holds the X axis motor, the zprobe finds this for X home) markbee posted in another thread that applying a piece of white tape to the lug fixes the crash. In my case, the carriage couldn't reach that lug because it hit the electronics case first - check that the electronics case isn't in the wayby rayhicks - Ormerod
@Ian - re the sensitivity to ambient light, have you considered toggling the power to the LED then subtracting the "dark" signal from the "on" signal? You might already be doing this ("chopping" like this is a common trick), but if not it should yield better signal to noise . @Markbee- remember to shield the snowmen from the sunlight! ;pby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Treth, It looks like you may have "Use DHCP" (or "set Address Automatically" - not sure what the options are in Win7) selected - so your computer is setting that port to a local network address (since you don't have a router attached to assign one to it). You could try manually assigning an address in the 192.168.1.xxx range for that card, or edit the config to set the printers address to soby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Em, sounds like you have a good one edited : RRP say that the first 220 may have an issue with resistor placement for which they've issued a warranty return call - your being 215 may have the problem (but it's encouraging that you can connect to ethernet!). Sorry, I misremembered the notice, I initially said the first 200 were mentioned, but in fact it runs up to 220 in the notice. The reby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Treth, My probe gives 600-700 at 8 or 9 mm over foil, and the same range around 2-3 over kapton (I aligned it by repeatedly sending G31 during positioning until I got maximum signal) - is yours in this higher range? I've found that my machine will run bed compensation directly on the kapton, and it works very well. "Home All" seems to work sometimes but not others for me (x tends not to movby rayhicks - Ormerod
oh yeah, what prompted the thread title is that we all seem to have different versions of everything, which makes it difficult to home in on what's whatby rayhicks - Ormerod
Discussing failure to print issues in pronterface earlier with Ian in irc ( which resulted in an instant bug fix), taking an overview of the round and round issues with ethernet connectivity, the (now hopefully resolved) +5V from atx 12V supply, it seems strikingly clear to me that RepRapPro don't have a release version of software or hardware: Those of us without ethernet connectivity can't useby rayhicks - Ormerod
@actiondrone - it would be worth updating the firmware if you haven't already done so, latest build was released two days ago (the saturday release fixed some issues for me I think it provided a fix for some g-codes). @ markus update - there's now a fix for a bug that stopped printing when selecting the currently selected extruder, released in the last two hours - this should let pronterfaceby rayhicks - Ormerod
@treth re homing sequence, there's a new thread started on axis movement re crossover/patch cable, a crossover cable should "guarantee" connectivity, but many recent nic's autodetect connection (eg on my mac and I understand, most gigabit PC cards) - nonetheless I've tried both cable types on both mac and PC, and I've configured my router to allow manual ip address configuration, still no conneby rayhicks - Ormerod
Quotereprappro Daniedb It depends what you are describing moving. The Y axis + and - in your picture shows the nozzle movement relative to the bed, rather than the actual movement of the axis, which is the other way! The motor end is the homing position of both X, Y and Z axis. At 0,0,0 the nozzle should be over the back right hand corner of the bed, just touching the surface. Ian RepRapPro tecby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hard to say Carnivalius - I'd thought similar, but was concerned about the double reflection being too confusing for the sensor (the glass itself will reflect - less light but at a smaller angle and be closer than the silvering of the mirror). I've found that by aligning the sensor while looking at the G31 response, I get useful signals without the foil, just from the kaptan/glass, and can compeby rayhicks - Ormerod
@Joules, early days for me yet, but I managed to print some pieces today, I've uploaded a blurry video to youtube (not sure why the link is youtu dot be, but it works) of it printing test pieces. I had the head a little high and the temperatures a little low to get good adhesion on one of the three parts that should have printed, and I stripped this as it printed (it IS my first machine ) Iby rayhicks - Ormerod
Hi Treth, congratulations! Still no success for me on ethernet either I'm afraid, so no tips... Mine is pretty much 125mm from the right hand side of the Z to the right hand end of the Y extrusion, not sure to the last mm since I moved it when it was fully built . This lets the x axis home without clashing and leaves the nozzle pretty much on the extreme left edge when Y homes.by rayhicks - Ormerod
that nails it for me: R60 is shorted across on my board as observed before - I've just checked continuity of the pads that R61 sits on - the top pad (in situ on the machine, but labelled GND 1 in the overlay) is short to GND, the bottom (on the left in the overlay and labelled 2 +5V) is short to +5V, I'd say those two resistors are definitely rotated 90° as pault surmised, with R61 linking theby rayhicks - Ormerod
@pault and bobc - I see what you mean, I've attached a picture of my circuit board I took last night, which shows the screen printed outlines running across the resistors, presumably R60 is connected across pads common to both outlines, accounting for the short. This hypothesis would be backed up by the fact that there's a track running from pin 5 ( FB ) of the A4403 to the upper pad of R60.)andby rayhicks - Ormerod
@Nil Einne, indeed nuances are easy to miss in text-only communication On with the thread - this is my first jump into reprap (I bought one of the `first batch of Ormerods from RS), so I can't throw much comparative light on the Ormerod design versus other machines, but I can confirm that it is well designed from a build point of view (especially with the updated instructions now available).by rayhicks - Ormerod
@Pault - R60 on the schematic I've got is 3k92, and R60 on the board is marked as such (3921) it's the upper arm of the feedback divider - nonetheless it appears as a short on my board (and this would actually account for the low output I measure of 100 mV), as I mentioned in an earlier post. The low resistance pair you refer to would be R62 and R55, both 0r1on my schematic and they parallel toby rayhicks - Ormerod
@treth -pronterface would want to use the usb port, which means you need to install the driver for the Arduino Due - you can get this from the arduino site (you need the 1.5.5 beta or later version with Due compatibility ), also read getting started with Due which runs through installation . The browser interface may work for you if you have managed to connect your duet to ethernet - launch Chrby rayhicks - Ormerod