QuoteDavek0974 Quoteormerod168 Use nozzle measurements to adjust the y-axis-end-plates so the rods are at the same hight in both ends Can say a vernier caliper be used to align the two rods to the table surface first? Just trying to find a way of parallelling them without continuously running the bed up and down. The bed is 200mm and distance between center of rods 81mm, so to get the bed wiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
..and a very fine snowman it is! - congrats! lots of printing ideas found here: some tips for slicing with slic3r, I don't know much but share it gladly uncheck "avoid crossing perimeters" in slic3r or it will take ages to slice make sure slic3r finish slicing the file before printing, not alway obvious when using pronterface as frontend, if in doubt open the file in a file viewer, there shby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteJon Steward Thanks I'll do exactly that. Just found the old forum posts on bed levelling to go through. Jon If Your setbed.g is twisted but You know your glass is flat: QuoteRun the nozzle out to the outer corners of the bed, any difference in these corners (while moving the nozzle in the plus minus y-direction) is caused by the outer y-rod, this misalignment if any, is mirrored in the outby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRichMo ... and where do I type that string? Hey...Kev made a batch file for that, maybe easier for you, here it is: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRichMo QuoteWith Bossac.exe and bin file in same directory, String for flashing: bossac --port=COM(...) -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-057t-dc42.bin -R Where do I get Bossac... You will find it in your arduino folder: ....\Arduino IDE 1.5.5\hardware\tools\bossac.exe Quote...and where do I type that string? Copy the string to memory with bossac.exe and RepRapFirmware-057t-dc42.bin inby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRichMo Thanks all. I thought I had the latest firmware on it, but it seems not so I will sort that later today. Welcome! Latest firmware here, click Raw to download With Bossac.exe and bin file in same directory, String for flashing: bossac --port=COM(...) -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-057t-dc42.bin -R Edit:COM port number will vary of cause QuoteWhen I was looking at the thingby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Someone asked about 'Bridging'..... I intend to make a test GCode file for this tomorrow to test the Fan-Ducts with. The reason for the GCode file instead of an STL is so that the temps and settings can be kept the same, to give a better comparison. Hi Kim Thank's for sharing, impressive that you can do such a large print directly on glass with out warping, the cooling can't be alby ormerod168 - Ormerod
do you slice with "avoid crossing perimeters"? - that slows things down for sure.. Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts ...You tend to get what you pay for... Ian RepRapPro tech support Great advice! ..btw, how much did you pay for those SD-cards? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 .... I have also seen [3dfilaprint.com] recommended, but I haven't tried them. I have and can highly recommend that supplier, every thing was perfect! QuoteIt's important that the filament is supplied in a vaccuum sealed bag with a sachet of desiccant inside It was, and with extra plastic bags included for archiving after opening Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould ..I used a thermocouple thermometer (RS part number 206-3722) The K type thermocouple that comes with the instrument has a lead that is long enough and thin enough to fit down the bowden tube. I removed the filament, took the bowden tube out of the extruder and fed the thermocouple down the tube till it bottomed in the molten plastic left in the nozzle, so the reading is about as acby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974It's an idea discussed earlier, it is possible but the strength of a fine m3 thread in aluminium is very poor and would strip easily. A nut on each side is far superior IMHO. I agree, I really cannot see any advantage of treads in the thin aluminium - screws in treads will not be stable and will have to be supported by at least one nut, but the pull from one nut will slowly degradeby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974...I also like the spring loaded idea, is this on all three points?... Not much point in springs at the two inner point as they only need to be adjusted once and I prefer two solid points to arrest the bed from any horizontal movement I have one spring only at the outer corner Disc springs might be a better option, might be easier to just ad disc to the hight needed instead of fiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks ....have you checked that the hot-end temperature is right? (on top of your PLA not being right as you suggest, it could be that there's a problem with your thermistor or its serial resistor - and the nozzle isn't being held at the right temperature because the temperature is being over-reported).... Ray Good point, as shown in dc42's test the agreement between bed and hot end theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown I got....The data that you have submitted to the server have been rejected, because it looks like they were posted by an automated bot. They didn't like mine either (a moment ago), then I send them some other data, ifaik it was the same quality just different, well anyway, they seem to like them much more :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Quotecannibalistic_cow Hi, I'm hoping that I'm not too late as you said you'd put the order in on Monday, can you put me down for one as well, pretty please. On an operational side of things, would replacing this part require running through the axis compensation again? Not that its a problem, just currious. Thanks. As in running ormaxis again? If so probably not as the bed shoby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Higher current for the extruder motor might solve the problem but not help you find the cause of the problem, standard Ormerod is E800 You can change that by sending this command in pronterface or edit your config.g as to make it permanent M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1200 Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteMykey ? Frankenslide! You nailed it! Edit: no that won't do it, no Franken without the Orme Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Ormerslide? - I think that one is taken, it's a dance innit? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
You could do that by writing G92 Z0 in you config.g, then it would be permanent in software, but that would only make sense if the position of the hardware was permanent Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Yo Ray Just call it Frankenrod, then you are truly free to migrate in any direction you want, don't you just hate fences? "Erik the Orme Red", no more, going white, Ha!by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Ok, so how about just make them 3mm clearance holes, quicker and easier, not laser cut though, drilled, it's more accurate at that size. That was my point, quicker and easier for you (if you all agree that tapping would not be very useful that is - it's just IMHO) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotefrank_bee ...Have you thought to do the corner holes at the guideline size for hand tapping?... I think you will have to put nuts on both sides of the alu anyway, you will need at least two steady bolts to carry the weight of the upper bed Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Beautiful! - we need frontrunner's like you!, it has been back in my mind since you mentioned those skates, I love the idea of the bed corners riding the extrusion, I love the direct line of support to the bed Do you feel any slack between the extrusion and the skates and do they run friction less, or do you have to have a preload to keep away any slack? About the outer skate - I prefer 3 pointby ormerod168 - Ormerod
I highly recommend these guys, great price, great product, great service, my first order was a Friday evening about 9 a clock!, could not get the order finalized as there were no country code for Denmark, so I send a email, got response in about 15 minutes!, my order was 10x1kg + a roll of kapton tape, ping-pong emails back and forth, mailed them a screen shot of my basket and they manually madeby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotesimosartori76 Good morning, I'm looking for the optimal solution that enables the bonding of the filament to the plan. It is very important that the bed is absolutely clean, clean the bed with alcohol, acetone or anything that will remove grease Quote I set the temperature of the extruder and the plan as indicated (I also tried to increase / decrease the temperature of the heated surfacby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 ...unless I add £3 to the price and source more expensive ones from Mouser.... OK with Me! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Have not printed today so room temperature Quote2. Allow the print head temperature to stabilise. Placed a thermometer in line with a fan at to normalize the temperature bed, hotend and thermometer for half an hour Quote3. Record the bed temperature reported by the Duet, extruder temperature reported by the Duet, and (if you have a good thermometer), the air temperature in the vicinity of theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks ...(or spend weeks fine-tuning, however the mood grabs you).. Ray Yes, like adjusting the belt with a tuning fork he he...It's all about the journey..for me Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteWaterjet Tim ...One thing I am going to change is the back profile of the y axis plates to slide into the alum box to tie it all together. Nice detail! - you should (IMHO) leave some room for fine adjustment though, but that's just me - the water cut parts look great! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod