thanks Dave. Yes, not a printer fault! (I did not believe that the only settings could affect so much) really appreciate your help and experience!by Zonzo - Ormerod
Hi Dave, the print was amazing!!!! Your setting work really well for me! Also the extrusion multiplier is better than mine (I haven't change it when I have start to print ABS, i have mantain the PLA setting The speed was really good and don't leave any defect or controindication on the print. My ABS filament is a Fluorescent Red (yes, that damn fluorescent color...) Before launch your gcoby Zonzo - Ormerod
Les, what kind of setting are you use on slic3r? I see that in the stl some pieces are set vertical and not flat on the bed, so the contact point is really small, do you use support? or simply Slice with Cura and rotate that part?by Zonzo - Ormerod
Try to uncheck "avoid crossing perimeters" or something similar (I don't remember exactly...) that operation took a lot of time in slicingby Zonzo - Ormerod
Thanks Les for the work I hope to print and mount it tomorrow, I'm really curious. About the Z axis top mount that I see on thingiverse, you read my mind! it's a long time that I think at this mod to reduce the Z rod moving, but I'm not soo good with Cad... so thaksby Zonzo - Ormerod
Dave, about the cooling what kind of hardware setting are you use? What airduct ar you using? For my last ABS print I have remove the air duct and mount only the alluminium sink wiith orizontal air flow direction and the fan, so the fan can cooling the noozle block without too much air to the print pieces...by Zonzo - Ormerod
Thanks Dave, I'l print your gcode tomorrow in the morning so I can post the picture immediatly PS: using a gcode viewer I see the print speed of your file to 30mm/s instead of 60 as I can see from the head of the gcode... is that a viewer error or a bug of Slic3r? and also I can see from the gcode that you set the layer to 0.2 instead of the standard 0.24, is that the result of some test to havby Zonzo - Ormerod
Hi Dave, thanks for your advice. My actually setting is similar to yours: I print on UHU coating (UHU mix with water to make it fluid and then poured on the glass and tilt until it is completely covered, then put the glass on the hot bed and dry it while waiting the bed reach 110°) Bed temperature 110° first layer and 100° the other Extrusion temperature 240° Printing speed 30mm/s (too high?, Iby Zonzo - Ormerod
I use a UHU & water mix to coat my glass and then I print to a 110° first layer and 100° other layer with a 240° extruder and a 10mm brim. With this setting I have no warping but still have delamination and also some bloob problem that the noozle drag and alter the printing like a belt slipping (although retraction set to 5mm at 45mm/s and whipe on retraction on). before increase temperatureby Zonzo - Ormerod
hI, I use this Topic to ask some help about ABS setting: Actually I'm printing ABS but I'have some difficulty with the setting, can anyone help me??? the print have some bubble (it could be a filament problem due to humidity, i'll try to dry it soon) but the bigger problem is that the layer don't have a good adesion to the other. I'll post some picture as soon as possibleby Zonzo - Ormerod
Could it be a problem related with the axis compensation? Your axis compensation command are included in the setbed g code and you have already play that when ruin G1 command?by Zonzo - Ormerod
Are you sure to have done correctly the axis compensation?by Zonzo - Ormerod
You put the oil on the shaft or inside the bearing over the gasket?by Zonzo - Ormerod
What we can use to lubrificare the linear bearing? I found that this kind of bearing isn't so sliding (probably economic?) When I move them manually I can feel some step in the moving....by Zonzo - Ormerod
Probably after a lot of print the x carriage PLA have some problem with the heat bed temperature... I have the same problem last week but actually I have printed an other one in ABS Anyway the better solution is to have a carriage stop or something that goes into the bearing groovesby Zonzo - Ormerod
Good work Les! About the bed temperature, it is a good idea to leave 5 minutes the bed at the setting temperature, so the glass could reach the same temperature of the aluminum plateby Zonzo - Ormerod
no way... the Thin Wall stl give me good results, but when I try a real and complex print the quality isn't soo good. last print give me a bad results look at the picture. now, with the same setting of the thin wall test the print result with some areas where the filament is not completely melted, and again some sign of X and Z not perfectly alligned... so I've change again the setting aboutby Zonzo - Ormerod
ok! Understand! I always print from SD card so next time I know that there is that box to compile. thanksby Zonzo - Ormerod
Mmmm... no... in the box of the Object height in mm there is only write "mm" I never noticed it because I did not know how the interface work... I thought they were box automatically calculated by gcode... so i need to insert it manually looking at the data given in the info file Slic3r?by Zonzo - Ormerod
Hi, for me the only voice that work is: Print duration, last layer and the chart... all the other voice indicate 0by Zonzo - Ormerod
there is a system to have the print status of the web interface working?? with the percentage of completion and the estimated remaining time of printing running? I use 057y-dc42 firmware and Iamburny 0,67 web interface. thanks Giulianoby Zonzo - Ormerod
ok, I have stop the print after 25mm, the perimeter seems good, but in the corner there are some hole... after a check I found that the wall thickness measure from 0,54 to 0.51mm (using a professional micrometer) so I think to set the extrusion multiplier to 0,50/0,52 = 0,96 so why when i print simple test wall the layer is perfectly on line and when i print other object they have some traslatiby Zonzo - Ormerod
ok, thanks Erik! the print is already started I have some doubt about extrusion: the first time I do the test I use the 0,5mm tin wall test but I haven't understand how to check the extrusion multiplier... it give me a value too low so I decide to set it to 0.9 just to set something... now I have reset the value to default (1), tell me how to check that value after the print please! Giulianoby Zonzo - Ormerod
Quotedc42 The screw holes should come out better if you change the slic3r settings to reduce the speed for small perimeters to 15mm/sec. I'm experimenting with reducing the X and Y axis accelerations, to see if this reduces the appearance of steps in the print. ok, thanks, small perimeter speed reduced to 15mm/s! about the line on the x and y axis? do you think it is a belt tension problem? canby Zonzo - Ormerod
Thanks Kim, but don't worry, the problem about the Z nut is that I'm not a guru in 3d modelling so I've made a wrong size nut hole so it is bigger than necessary, if you want to help me, I need a nut base for a 10mm nut (i've made a 10mm brass nut with 5mm thread, the nut is 15mm high), because I'm not able to use the original stl file and modify it. here enclosed the picture of the last print:by Zonzo - Ormerod
I can't use Kim fan duct due to my Z nut trap mod... so I've decide to print the dc42 version...by Zonzo - Ormerod
Ok, I have just generate a gcode for the kim's fan duct with the setting suggestion receved on this thread: 1-increase y motor to 1000mA 2-increase retraction speed 3-reduce hotend temperature (set to: 185° first layer and 180° other that should be like 190,8° and 185,8°... I hope...) 4-Update the firmware to 057y-dc42 5-increase x axis belt tension (y look ok at me) 6-also fix my power conby Zonzo - Ormerod
This is my M115 reply with normal configuration T:28.1 B:22.3 it seems that the hotend indicate a temperature higher than the bed, but only for 5,8°... so if I have set my temperature to 185° probably it could be 190,8° that in any case don't seems really to high...by Zonzo - Ormerod
I found a BIG mistake on my power connection: I have connected only the 24 pin connector of the ATX to the Ormerod Power Board, without conect the 4 pin connector... I have use this power configuration for all my print until today... may have created problems?? maybe the engines did not have the correct power when both bed and hotend require power to reach temperature...by Zonzo - Ormerod