An overhand threshold of 89 degrees or so might do the trick. The "hinge bolt" bits are 90 degrees, and if it sees the topmost layer of the tube as less than that, it might ignore supports there. I printed the hinged extruder without even realizing the need for supports, and while it came out really ugly, it actually worked wine after filing off some crap and drilling the hole. I was going to prby jstck - Ormerod
My X carriage and hotend was maybe a little bit "below" level, but tightening it up to level or even above doesn't make much difference in the clearance (fractions of a millimeter). Anyway, some electrical tape in the notch on the X rib makes the extruder stay in place much better, might be this will be the last I see of it.by jstck - Ormerod
I fiddled a bit more with it, and I can reproduce it only if the extruder hangs a bit crooked (so the inside corner of the motor hangs down a bit). It pretty easily gets that way though (my stock extruder has even curved itself from heat/weight or something). Even so, I have less than 2mm clearance. This is how much clearance I have with the extruder snugly in place (crappy picture, I know, darnby jstck - Ormerod
Not sure if it's just in my case or a more general thing, but I think the bearing on the back of this X carriage sits just a little bit higher than the default one. If the extruder is properly seated in it's "notch", the bearing can catch on the motor. On the way "in", it just moved the motor out of the way, but on the way "out", it got stuck and the X motor was grinding and skipping. I have my eby jstck - Ormerod
Very interesting. Especially the telnet part, is the telnet prompt supposed to behave as the USB-serial interface would?by jstck - Ormerod
The checkbox Print Settings -> Layers and perimeters -> Avoid crossing perimeters usually makes Slic3r quite slow, and in some cases it can make it take hours. If that is checked, try unchecking it and see if it gets better.by jstck - Ormerod
I have taken the carriage off a couple times and never had any problems tensioning it with just moving the motor. With the motor "loose", I just insert the belt as snug as I can, and then the motor can move enough (basically the distance of 1/2 "belt tooth") to tighten it.by jstck - Ormerod
Another thing to remember is that the Duet firmware is configured to have the Y endstop be a "max endstop" (hit at high Y, not at Y=0). Not sure where it is physically mounted in the Prusa i3 though.by jstck - Ormerod
I had something similar happen when I had wired the endstop switch wrong (using the wrong pin on the microswitch). It needs to be "normally closed" (and open only when the switch is hit). If it is wired properly, the LED by the connector on the Duet should be on, and only go off when the endstop is triggered.by jstck - Ormerod
I butchered your design, and after trying to comment what bit does what, I made some potential improvements: Removed the bits for the old sensor mount. Added a groove to match the one in the bearing, for inserting a piece of wire to lock it in place. Made a hole for a setscrew. Adjusted the total length so the other bearing groove (on the "low X" side) will line up with the edge of the carriageby jstck - Ormerod
You shouldn't need any pull-up resistors, there are none on the Ormerod other than what is built into the Duet (where I suspect the LED + resistor counts as just that). If things are wired correctly, you should see a red LED near the connector of each endstop. The endstops need to be wired "normally closed", and the LED should be on except when the endstop is triggered, at which point it goes ofby jstck - Ormerod
I tried the supplied lsusb command, seems to work fine. Here's its output: $ ./lsusb Bus 026 Device 002: ID 8087:0024 Intel Corporation Hub Bus 026 Device 003: ID 05ac:8510 Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in) Serial: CC2D8N0C8GND7F6B Bus 029 Device 002: ID 8087:0024 Intel Corporation Hub Bus 029 Device 003: ID 0424:2512 SMSC Hub Bus 029 Device 005: ID 0a5c:4500 Broadcom Corp. BRCM20702 Hubby jstck - Ormerod
I just tried it on Mac, and it successfully built the firmware. I haven't actually installed it yet, but at least I got a binary out of it which is more than Eclipse ever did for me... I just had to change this on line 226: cp -r --preserve=timestamps ${FIRMWARE}/ArduinoCorePatches/sam ${ARDUINO}/hardware/arduino to cp -r -p ${FIRMWARE}/ArduinoCorePatches/sam ${ARDUINO}/hardware/arduino This asby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 John, I kept the "vestigial structures" simply so that it would grip the bearing as well as the original does. I dare say some of them could be removed. Which side do you mean by the "front side" - the one with the nozzle mounting screw holes in it? I like the idea of a grub screw or similar to lock it on to the bearing - I've had the x-carriage come off. Yes, the side with the nut trby jstck - Ormerod
Nice job! I did something similar in Sketchup just working on the STL file, because I totally lacked the dedication required to do it in OpenSCAD... However, I made the back part (the one that is a bit badly printed as default) a little bit too thick so it would stick against the Z aluminium extrusion and I had to file it down. Also made it just the right length to fit between the grooves on theby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I added sensorpad-modified.scad and .stl 25 days ago to , which I think should solve the problem for most users. Let me know if you don't think that one would work for you. It probably would. I made the attached one at about the same time.by jstck - Ormerod
* Does you find that the height sensing gives repeatable results once you have calibrated it? Yes. I have to recalibrate whenever I have taken things apart, but once set it works perfectly. Not sure about the precision it gives, but in any case less than 0.1mm. * Do you trust it to do the z-homing, or do you still set the height manually and send G92 Z0? Do you trust it to do bed compensation?by jstck - Ormerod
Awesome. This might be what I need to finally be able to compile firmware on Mac. I have spent too many hours with Eclipse banging my head against the wall trying to make it work, and I would rather just do without it. Some path fiddling, and I suspect this shall work well on OS X too.by jstck - Ormerod
The best start for getting an accurate print is to fix things "mechanically" and make sure all axis are close to 90° as they can be (the the X and Z axis can both move about a bit if they aren't tightened properly) and level the bed manually (I got mine on M3 screws to adjust, as do many others here). After that, correct any remaining defects in software.by jstck - Ormerod
QuoteTreth I also like the spiral vase, is a spiral print option available in Slic3r? Yep, it is in Slic3r under Print Settings -> Layers&Perimeters -> Spiral Vase. It does the perimeter as a continuous spiral (slowly lifting Z all the time) instead of individual layers (with one Z lift each layer). It only works for things that are just one perimeter layer thick though. Haven't had mby jstck - Ormerod
Sign me up for a pre-order (previous-kit upgrade) as well! Quotedc42 I'm wondering whether to add a red LED to indicate when the hot end heater is on (thanks Kim for the idea). Is that a feature that users would like? The LED would most likely be where the fan connector is now but on the SMD side of the board. A led to indicate hotend heater running is certainly useful (I got one soldered on tby jstck - Ormerod
For some parts, PLA should be better because it is stiffer. Then there are a lot of parts where it shouldn't really matter, and one or two where ABS would be better due to higher temperature resistance. That goes for at least the nozzle mount (that sits between the cooling block and the x carriage).by jstck - Ormerod
The bed compensation would cause a small angle error, where the Z axis isn't quite straight to the X or Y axis. This is sometimes the case even with perfectly level beds, and can be compensated with the M556 command. The angle error from an unlevel bed will probably be very small, it can be quite a bit more from the printer not being entirely straight. Each millimeter of level difference across tby jstck - Ormerod
Seems pretty neat, looking forward to the upgrade. At roughly what height over the bed does it trigger?by jstck - Ormerod
You just need two of the Y bearing clamp for the Y carriage. Everything else should be one each.by jstck - Ormerod
If fitting a Duet to a different printer, there should just be a few settings that need changing. Endstop switches should should work straight away (just do M558 P0 as mentioned to disable ir probing). However, X needs to be a "min" endstop and Y a "max" endstop for them to work properly. If you need to change that, you will need a recompile of the firmware. Apart from setting the "printer dimenby jstck - Ormerod
The Ormerod is connected to a little wifi bridge, so it at least always has link up (and that part has so far been very reliable). However, the time when it crashed probably matches when my laptop (which had an open browser window to the web ui) went to sleep. So I guess one always needs to disconnect the web ui before leaving a print running? Is it possible to do something about that? After allby jstck - Ormerod
This morning I found my Ormerod (with 0.59c / 0.79) had crashed mid-print. Does this output (M111 S2) actually mean anything? Was printing a 4MB gcode file (not the largest one I ever printed), seems to have gone about 3/4 of the way. 07:42:22 Program static ram used: 39852 Dynamic ram used: 39004 Recycled dynamic ram: 3064 Current stack ram used: 1288 Maximum stack ram used: 2236 Never used ramby jstck - Ormerod
The duet is already connected to that pcb via a beefy 12V cable, the extra cable is a thin 5V one. I don't see why that would make a difference. And it is a feature built into the Duet, why would using that void any warranty?by jstck - Ormerod