The fan connector is 12V. Exactly the same kind of circuitry that controls the bed and hotend heaters, so it's good for a lot more power than just a fan (not sure how many fans in parallel it can handle, but I guess at least a few dozen). The pins are at the far end along the bottom edge (to the bottom right when looking at the board as it is mounted in the Ormerod). It is to the right of the theby jstck - Ormerod
That's a mighty fine fan duct you got there. Is it available for download somewhere?by jstck - Ormerod
Interesting. Such a spring with the right tension (ideally just below the maximum force the motor can hold) should mean that fast moves would lead to a bit imprecise moves (not straight lines, and some "overshooting" and oscillation when stopping) and just slightly less print quality when going "too fast", instead of having the motor skip. I guess you would need two of them on each belt (on eachby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown And the Z-axis is just to easy to use as a handle to get it in and out of it's box. Unfortunately sometimes that's enough to move it. So now every time I setup the machine, I check it's square. You can push it back square very easily, you don't have to slacken screws.... I probably don't move it about as much or violently as you do, but I do shuffle it around and often lift it (atby jstck - Ormerod
I got some long brass nuts, and replaced the slightly worn rod with a stainless steel one, so now any wear should be on the nuts, but along a very large "thread surface". The long nut fits very nicely in the "extended" trap. The rod is straight as an arrow (easily confirmed by rolling it along a flat surface), but it wobbles more than the original (also very straight) one did. It just might be soby jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, now that I got something else in place, I was thinking of modding the alpine psu a bit and see what it can do. A volt or two will be enough to make the losses not matter anymore and make the bed heat up a bit faster.by jstck - Ormerod
I just upgraded the PSU for my Ormerod with another ATX power supply, a Corsair CX430M. It normally sells for around SEK450-500 here (€45-€50), I got it for cheap from a friend who upgraded his PC and apparently needed something bigger. It's a pretty decent PSU but nothing extravagant, seems to have gotten generally good reviews as being good value for money. 430W, single +12V rail. This is the "by jstck - Ormerod
Looks just like you are starting a bit too high (nozzle too far from print bed). Make sure print head is level and sensor working right, and redo whatever height calibration you did when you started.by jstck - Ormerod
The fan control works if you have a firmware that supports it, and connect it to the FAN0 header (it's wired straight to +12V/GND in the installation instructions). I connected mine like that, mostly to be able to turn it off sometimes when not actually printing. You can then use it to control cooling airflow during print, but you have to be careful not to run it "too little", since not enough coby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Look cool, but how does one add this to slic3r? You don't, it is a separate application you run, and in there you load the gcode file generated by Slic3r (the one you would normally upload to the 3D printer). It will draw out all the moves the printer will do, together with some stats and numbers. Think of it as a "virtual 3D printer". I usually prefer gcode.ws, it is web-based and aby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedmould I suggest the existing 0xBE, 0xEF followed by the IP address would be as good a method of deriving a MAC address as any other, and pretty much guaranteed to be unique on any subnet. Alternatively, use FE:ED as a vegetarian option (having the second-most-significant nibble be 0E or 0A just so happens to work).by jstck - Ormerod
Having more cable area means less resistance and heat, and that heat is "spread out" over more cable, so that will fix that. You need to be careful with the connectors/screw terminals though, since that's a likely spot for some contact resistance and overheating.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotedmould Ah - but look at your ARP table after connecting from a wired PC to 2 or more WiFi devices off the router. If your router is acting as a simple bridge between wired and wireless sections, then the MAC addresses of the WiFi devices will appear in your ARP table and the method I suggest will not work. And that is the case with >99.9% of common home broadband-wifi-router devices, wby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedmould you could try using a WiFi to Ethernet dongle in one Ormerod and connect the other via copper, which will work for some (but not all) typical home broadband routers. All typical home broadband routers I've seen put the wireless and wired networks on the same subnet (same IP range and same layer 2 domain), so it won't make any difference. Some more advanced ones (with firewall-ish feaby jstck - Ormerod
That does sound a bit odd. I ran my "BigYellow" with the original sensor before I got the dc42 one delivered, and never had any issues with anything hitting the Z rod. Can you post some pictures of how it's mounted and where it hits?by jstck - Ormerod
I don't remember the instructions for the hotend being difficult to follow or "strange" in any way, but I do remember it being a bit confusing, I just wasn't sure I was doing it right (since there are some degrees of freedom in how things are screwed together). I think these new ones clarify a few things in a good way though, on how things should fit. Also that drill in the end of the teflon tubeby jstck - Ormerod
I think there needs to be some settings change somewhere for it to work properly. If you do not have an endstop switch connected, it will be "open" which means "triggered", and if the firmware were to care about that the endstop would be triggering constantly. Edit: zombie, you beat me to it with your edit.by jstck - Ormerod
As I understand things, it does recognize the X endstop (as a "normally closed" switch) on X minimum, but you have to disable the IR sensor (M558 P0) with to make it use the endstop.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotemichaelljunggren Thank god I have a 3D-printer or I would never be able to print out so many spare parts for it. I think I so far have about a 2:1 ratio of "printing 3d-printer parts" vs "printing other stuff".by jstck - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 I can't post the OpenSCAD files because I am on limited bandwidth on mobile data until the end of May, but I will gladly post them after that. The OpenSCAD file should just be a small fraction of the size of the pictures or STL files, they're usually just a few kB in size, at least for a reasonably simple object like this one. Comparable in size to viewing this forum thread web pagby jstck - Ormerod
Due to similar frustrations, I hooked up a separate reset button (some random switch I had laying around). Though with something like this for the erase button, I might actually bother finally putting the Duet cover on...by jstck - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts We are at the very final stages of preparing a new version Huzzah!!! Quotedroftarts It seems to take a long time for any RepRap kit to become stable Indeed, and continuous improvement is what it's all about. I never used any early-stage RepRaps of other models, but talking to those who did it seems to me the Ormerod is still in pretty good shape for being such a young design. Fiby jstck - Ormerod
Before anyone reads this post as just a negative rant, I just want to be clear that I really like my Ormerod. I enjoyed building and tweaking it, and now it prints really well. I would just love to see it become an even better printer "as default", and think there is plenty of room for improvement. Basically, just take the best bits of what's in the community, and bring it back into the regular kby jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, it prints at a bit of a funny angle, but for a decently set-up printer the overhangs aren't much of an issue, and after all it does seem to work. Any other direction would require some kind of support structure, I think. Was thinking about laying it on the surface facing the X arm, which would have made the holes better but the Z-nut trap worse. I think you could make it in two pieces to "lby jstck - Ormerod
I applied bobtidey's trick as well and just extended it 2mm downwards to make the upper bolt have a "complete hole" and a full grip around the nut. Should fit if there's at least 2mm clearance between the stock Z-nut trap and the X stepper motor. I have just over 2mm clearance there, but I haven't printed this bit yet.by jstck - Ormerod
I remade it in a slightly different manner, just extending the z-nut thingy a bit downwards. I haven't got the long brass nut yet though. Biggest improvement over my original green part is just in the print quality, since that one was a bit shabby. The new one just grips better on the z-nut and there is no play in it, the hole for upper mounting hole just turned out better, and the lower one hadby jstck - Ormerod
Those are pretty general recommendations and not solid rules. If you don't have several meters of cable and good connectors, 16awg should do fine.by jstck - Ormerod
Even better is if you tell Slic3r to use the temperature settings from the filament settings. They don't actually get used anywhere otherwise (it only adds the "second layer" temperatures into the gcode). My "custom start g-code" contains this: M140 S ; Start heating bed G10 P0 S R0 ; Start heating extruder The bracketed expression gets replaced with whatever value is filled into the temperatuby jstck - Ormerod
Well, they're using some special fiberglass-reinforced concrete that apparently works well enough without rebar or other reinforcement. However, I'm highly doubtful to how quick/easy/cheap/usable those printed houses are. While it's really cool technology, I seriously doubt that what they're doing is really a useful application for it.by jstck - Ormerod
Yeah, if you don't want to use an ATX PSU, you could use that same "power pin" to control something else (such as a relay on either the mains AC side or the +12V side of the PSU). Basically you'd let the Duet "kill itself" with an M81 signal in the end gcode.by jstck - Ormerod