I just got my "kit 5" sensor board, and something slightly confused me: The small ceramic capacitor included with the kit that is supposed to be in parallel with the transducer: Does it matter at all if to "signal quality" if it is installed close to the transducer, or close to the circuit board connector? Is the signal high enough frequency for that to matter at all? Also, this capacitor isn'tby jstck - Ormerod
Not sure if it is of any help, but I've had the same thing happen a couple times, with a "plug" of PLA blocking the nozzle. It was always due to insufficient cooling (such as running the heater without the fan), but I can see how the same thing would happen if the teflon liner isn't quite in the right place. Is the liner uneven or damaged at the bottom end? Is it seated properly inside the nozzleby jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I suggest a lower hotend temperature to start with, because 205 is much too high for standard PLA. Try 195 for the first layer and between 180 and 190 for the remainder. Yeah, all those issues are consistent with temperature being too high. Drop it down a bit and it will probably print fine, no matter which airduct thingy you have.by jstck - Ormerod
I have a stainless steel threaded rod and long brass nut to replace the Z axis, and when I get around to mounting them (so far the stock rod holds up despite showing some wear), I might take a stab at slightly altering the Z nut trap both to have a "taller" grip on the nut as well as trying to extend things to handle the mounting bolt better. I'm not good friends with any 3D CAD software (other tby jstck - Ormerod
Is there a G28 command somewhere near the beginning of your gcode files? If so, the printer will home the different axes at the start of each print, and if the Z-homing then isn't working quite right, it could cause irregularities like what you're describing. If you want to do all manual homing, just remove the G28 command from the start of the files (it's added from the "custom start gcode" in Sby jstck - Ormerod
The fan that came with the printer is 12V. And if you have two 12V fans, they should be wired in parallel. What length bolts you need (which I think are M3 btw) depends on how thick the fan is, and if you have any O-rings in between. Just add up the thickness of the fans (maybe add 1-2mm for any O-rings); The bolts will be recessed a bit into the holes in the topmost fan, and that is about as muby jstck - Ormerod
Not sure if it is the design or just the print quality, but mine had some issues. First, the Z-axis nut can rotate a little bit. Probably not enough to cause any serious lack of precision in itself (I would estimate the rotation to be about 0.01mm in height), but still. I just jammed a toothpick in between the nut and the trap which fixed it, but it's not really a proper solution. Maybe some playby jstck - Ormerod
The one you printed already have the "360" nozzles on it, so you don't need to print anything extra (other than possibly the different-sized "chimney covers" if plain tape doesn't suit your fancy). As far as I can tell, that wall should remain in place. Air flows in through the upper hole, past the heatsink, and out through the lower hole and to the nozzles. Without the wall, the heatsink wouldby jstck - Ormerod
It would be possible to hand-hack the gcode to curve z upwards while extruding the bridge to compensate for the sag, and also reduce cooling (slow fan down) after first 1-2 layers for better adhesion. Would that be cheating?by jstck - Ormerod
It is possible to have the duet turn the ATX power supply on or off, which disables all steppers, heaters and fans. I do that to power it off after a finished print (after a cool down period). I think the latest firmware also has a "watchdog" that resets it if it hangs, and it would be feasible to have it be "powered down" on boot up (just add M81 to config.g), but I wouldn't do that. When it sby jstck - Ormerod
Iirc, rc servos want a 20ms pulse spacing, and 1-2ms pulse width (1.5ms=center). That equates to 50Hz, 5-10% duty cycle. Other than that, I do agree with Michael. Rather than a servo-controlled flap (which would be a fairly complex moving part), I would prefer a cooling solution with one fan only cooling the hot end (which shouldn't need to much of a fan if it doesn't have all the ducts but jusby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown As for the M106 fan speed, I'm not sure if it's just a case of swapping pins of the fan connection, as I don't know if the PWM pin can take the load of the fan. I'm sure DC could answer that question. I was going to design a servo controlled flap as the servo would react quicker than the fan speed changing. The FAN0 output has a power MOSFET (same as the ones for the bed and hotendby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrownMy next idea is to add a software adjustable flap to the exhaust port , so altering the amount of cooling automaticaly... Why not use the existing firmware function to just control the speed of the fan? If you connect the fan to the actual fan header on the Duet (instead of just +12V as per the instructions), you can control the speed with M106.by jstck - Ormerod
Well, one thing would be to make the printer quieter (as the hotend cooling fan is by far the most noisy thing on the printer). Also because it's cool and challenging. But, if someone is making one, might as well do one with room for 3 or so nozzles.by jstck - Ormerod
Since you wouldn't really need the heatsink and cooling fan for the hotend, you could have a "cooling block" that is a fair bit larger than just the standard block.by jstck - Ormerod
I'm not using the Z retraction, but I have enabled the "wipe while retracting" flag. If I understood it correctly, without it checked the extruder will stay in place, retract filament, and then move. With it checked, it will just start the move to wherever it's going, and retract while moving, so anything that does leak out will be "to the side" (usually outside the perimeter, or just getting losby jstck - Ormerod
I think it would be better to leave the existing commands doing the simple thing they do, but possibly implement some separate "shutdown procedure" command. And I guess since it's a fairly advanced topic, users would probably be fine with applying a few individual commands and appreciate the fine-grained control it gives them (at least I would ). Another way of accomplishing it would be to put aby jstck - Ormerod
Did you use the supplied crimp connectors, just bare wires, or soldered wire-ends? The crimp connectors are probably the most reliable, provided they're done right (and if not, anything getting hot would probably be inside the connector). Bare wires can work loose, and exactly that kind of thing can happen (and all that current going through a few individual copper strands can generate a lot of hby jstck - Ormerod
I made some modifications to the "big extruder gear", might as well share it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:306252 (STL file too large to attach here) When I first tried to make this, my machine had some issues getting things done neatly, so I couldn't get a clean print. The "outside rim" of the gear teeth was very thin and would fall off, and the infill would be pretty messy since it was a lby jstck - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Please give me feed back as to how you get on with fettling it, and anything else that might need addressing as the release your getting now I won't have time to print. I printed the version before this (and just did the extra nozzles separately), but I absolutely had to have Slic3r add support structures in or there was no way I was going to get a usable part. Basically all horizoby jstck - Ormerod
Random picture of nautilus gears and some carcassonne meeple. Most of the rest I've printed so far (after getting the Ormerod into shape) is just test crap and printer parts. You can see how the bed levelling was a bit off for the black part, the bottom layer (which is the one you see) is decent on one end and kind of crappy on the other, from the head being too far from the bed. So far I'veby jstck - Ormerod
Yep, I had that earlier as well, running the hotend fan for two minutes after turning off the heater (I got it hooked up so it is controlled via M106/M107). That's enough to get temperature down to under 100°C.by jstck - Ormerod
I finally got around to trying this out. Hooked up the cable between the Duet and the power adapter board, and I can now use M80/M81 commands to turn 12V power off and on. Here's how it's done: Get a new enough firmware, 057zb-dc42 or later. I got 058-dc42.Get an appropriate cable. I took an old RC servo cable and moved the cables (colors) around to make more sense. It originally had black (grouby jstck - Ormerod
There are two modifications that are absolutely necessary in my opinion: 1. iamburny's Y-axis belt clamp (possibly together with dc42's spacers. Without this, I was unable to get the Y-axis belt (the one that moves the print bed) properly tight, which would lead to bad precision along the Y-axis. It would among other things cause "walls" along the X-axis to be very uneven (due to layers being inby jstck - Ormerod
If you were to build one "from scratch" there would be more parts, since the wiring looms would consist of several bits (cables, connectors, and sleeves).by jstck - Ormerod
Well, the choice of material is limited to stuff that can go from "fluid" (using the term widely, including powders and anything that is "shapeable" enough) into "hard" in a controlled manner, but that gives a lot of options. And even when the desired material isn't directly printable, 3d printers are quite useful for making one-off molds for example.by jstck - Ormerod
Cool, I'll give it a spin. BTW, does anyone have a schematic of the power-adapter circuit board? I guess I can measure my way out on what to connect where, but it would be nice with some solid documentation.by jstck - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I can add this to my next firmware build if you like. That would be severely awesome.by jstck - Ormerod
Nope, don't see anything about it in the firmware source code. Should be a pretty easy thing to implement though, just turn an output pin on or off. Could probably do it myself if I could just get the thing to build...by jstck - Ormerod
QuotebobtideyApart from adding low level support for this, the power on strategy would need to be worked out. Thanks for the info. I'll probably toy around a bit with the power control things and see what it does. I think most useful would be to have a separate M-something command for powering ATX on/off, that you can put in the custom start/end G-code snippets, and have it power up on bootup.by jstck - Ormerod