Quoteduranza What software do you guys use to modify STL files? I'm trying to redesign the front plate where the hot end goes. Thanks, Jonathan FreeCAD Convert mesh into shape, make shape solid, perform operations, export as .stl. Easy...by markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMFQuotesmartfriendzI have hard time to follow everything, 0.4.9 coming out, Z GT2 in place of the M5 thread : I'm tired of the noise of this threaded rod Much respect for keeping up this good, i also find it hard to keep up. Z GT2 sounds VERY interesting. Z-whining is also getting on my nerves (I can't print at night because of it). What? What noise / "Z-whining"? My threaded rod iby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I see their using carburetor cleaner to soften the PLA.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
When I was 14, the Altair 8800 was brand new and sported the 8080 processor. I wanted one sooooooooooo bad. Today I dream of building a Beowulf cluster.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Very nice, and well done. I think you will be happy with it. The Smartrap has been a great little printer for me so far. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Sure thing, just hope they turn out alright.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Take a look at these in this post - I'm using them now on the Y. Work well. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Nice job! Z switch is doing the "dangle hula". Shame about the drivers, but it looks like the toshibas are doing the job. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Alright, after about a half dozen distractions these should be good enough to give a try. The meshes are all good, no errors.You should note however, I have not printed one of these out, and even if I did, I don't have one of those nice hotends to test it out on. So your on your own for that part. Let me know if anything needs adjusting. I think you were using the left hand version? That's why thby markstephen - Smart_Rap
The J Head Light is about 2 1/2" (63.5 mm) tip to top so not much difference there in height. On it now......... Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
OK, it will probably be later on today, but I'll get to it. I think reg mentioned the height back in a post somewhere, I'll suss that out and get it cranked out. This will be using the quick connect right? Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I've got a sorta Shapeoko like home built DIY kind of deal. Here is a video of it's first run. I'll drop you a PM when I have the refit/upgrades done and new videos up. In the mean time, feel free to drop me a PM with any questions you have, so we don't corrupt djinn5150 thread . I'll do my best to answer.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Yea, your problem is your mesh has no less than 603 non-manifolds on the bottom. Ah, got to love that Sketchup. The file opened for me just fine in FreeCAD... Modeling it in FreeCAD should produce much better results. A couple of FreeCAD tips, if you don't know already, Setting your tessellation in Edit > Preferences > Part Design > Shape view tab to something lower than the defaultby markstephen - 3D Design tools
Hi Mike, You need a holder to fit those dimensions? Let me know which style your wanting and I'll get you the STL's to print. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
That's looking better. Looks like the feed slowed a bit in spots, but is definitely an improvement. Here are a couple of prints I did last night, Jack Blocks (step blocks) and Hold Downs for my CNC router. I was at the very limit for my text size on this one. Click the url just below the pic for high rez. Sliced with CuraEngine 14.3 and printed on my Smartrap using the J Head Light V2. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Cura shouldn't have anything to do with your Z offset, that's in your firmware unless the start Gcode is overriding it. Did you put something in there? I don't use Cura - "the program", but my CAD has a CuraEngine Workbench plugin that I use almost exclusively. About the only downside I have with Cura is it won't do hexagon infill. If your having to reset your Z offset al the time, there is somby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Oh no... your not using Netfabb are you? Actually, that's a pretty good job modeling Reg. Among the best I'v seen coming from that software. You must be well practiced at it. Folds on surface are a tough thing to avoid for any mesher and sad to say, Netfabb spares no horses laying them on, but only 3 degenerated faces, two on the extruder block and one on the bearing block, and only 2 self inby markstephen - Smart_Rap
The metric pitch on a 10-32 thread is .794 mm real close to .8 but over a distance can throw you off as your esteps works out to 4,030.22670025 / mm. Not so good trying to match an imperial thread to a metric based unit. There are not any standard imperial threads that will work out to even steps on a metric based system. Your best bet is to go for the metric thread and be done with it.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Sure thing Mike. I found this out the hard way when with my V1. I didn't have any Kapton tape and "temporally" held the ceramic insulation on with wire. It started falling apart and once it was gone around the heatsink, I was getting jamming and heat up the barrel to the point I couldn't get more than a 20 minuet print out before the mounting arm got REAL soft... With a properly built V2 now onby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Oh, if you move things over to the Jhead-Lite you'll also need This ($1.50), Sorry... or some form of heat sink... And this. Need that rockwool in between or the heatsink won't perform like it should. Order them all together and save shipping.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
For the money, I don't think you can get a bigger bang for your $ that the Ohio Plastics J Head Light V2 The old V1's has the same jamming issue with PLA though a little vegi oil on the PLA helped. I'm running the V2 and it is doing a great job for me.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
3.14159265359 * (5 + 0.43)=17.058848109 then for 1/16th steps and 1.8* per step - 200*16/17.058848109=187.585936609 esteps or rounded to 187.59 esteps per mm I use Aqua Net hair spray, works a treat. Others use a mix or white glue and water. PLA will not stick to untreated glass.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
When your setting up your esteps for your x and y, your want to use this formula, if you haven't already - Pi * (shaft dia + line dia) = Tc Steps per rev * microstepping / Tc = esteps So, for a 5 mm shaft and .3mm line we would have - 3.14159265359 * (5 + 0.3) = 16.650441064 and with a 1.8* step and 1/16 microstepping we then use - 200 * 16 / 16.650441064 = 192.187101092 or rounded to 1by markstephen - Smart_Rap
A couple of things. First, is that plain old fishing line your using? I know a lot of references mention "fishing line" but the type of fishing line that is supose to be used is called Spectra. It is a braided line made from this stuff. Nylon monoline will stretch and flex and will not give good results, it's too "springy". In this post, you can see the Spectra "fishing line" on my machine. Secby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Attaching a picture of the part, so we know what "went bad" and "turn to swiss cheese" are exactly referring to would be helpful. Is your extruder stepper knocking or filament slipping? What is your flow rate setting? Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I run mine 30mm/sec on everything, with 50 mm/sec rapids, I have gone as fast as 45, but 30 is fast enough. If your not getting the stepper kicking back on you and it's not pushing out enough filament, take a look at your settings in your slicer, make sure you have the correct filament/nozzle size entered. Also your Esteps in Marlin could be off. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
OK, should be good now. You got to click the link just under the pix to see in full rez.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
If you have been messing around in Marlin, you might want to try loading the default Marlin Firmware and see if it will come back to life. I'v had some problems of my own this weekend, all surrounding the fact that my current was way to high on my extruder stepper and it was getting way to hot. On the up side, I now have a new adjustable extruder that is working better than ever and my stepperby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Yup, suppose to fit a M3 grub screw. I just cut off a hunk of M3 screw and cut a slot in it and used that for the grub.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
That hole was originally meant for a small screwdriver or allen wrench to asjusta grub screw in the arm, but I guess this way works too. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap