Here is one of those little frogs I ended up printing out during my effort to help out a new FreeCAD user with mesh Boolean operations - which is how those BB's got snapped into the eyes. Yes, I said SNAP into. No glue, snap. Now that's a print, (dare I say it?), fine as frogs hair. Mark Edit - image should be good now.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I'm also working towards doing a belt conversion and I printed up some of these little belt capture ends that will tension the belt with the same screws that currently tension the string. I just thought to myself... why not? i didn't think these little parts needed posting anywhere else, their so simple... but if anyone is interested, the STL file is attached. Mark Nice fit on the belt Set ofby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I ended up spending most of today working on a decent adjustable extruder for my Smartrap. I liked the way the one verteez printed but when I hunted it down, it had a very bad model for the base. So I tracked down the source for it and carved my own out of it. It fits the MK7 hobbed drive pulley and exits to the right like the original does. It also takes the M4 nut on the end of the Bowden tubeby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Just standard FreeCAD, one of the advantages of using a solid modeler. That simple model took about a minute to do. Let us know how it turns out, good or bad. This looks interesting.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
You could just do something simple like this. I'll take it you were just gluing the ends together and hoping it would hold? Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
what probing are you using? the 3 point or the 4 point? With mine, the 4 point was giving me troubles like your having, I switched to the 3 point and it's a lot better now.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
If your threaded rod is tool steel type and rough, you will probably want to lap and polish the threads and use a hardened nut. It really shouldn't be wearing out the nut like that.Keep the threaded rod clean and lubed.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Hey, not to bad for a rookie. If you want to stick with a rod, and the axis is moving free enough, you could always try a ThreadlessBallscrew. You can get those going real fast if you need to. Plane threaded rod just moves to slow for the X and Y IMO. You can't get the speed out of the steppers. Mark Edit - also search for " threadless nut ", it will turn up a few more examples.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Reading that again, I'm thinking he means nut, not bolt - Quotesolarprism And it seems that due to this, the bolt is being grind down to the extent that it slipped on the thread rods. So it sounds like he has a rather crappy threaded rod, soft nut, and or no lube on the threaded rod. I'v just used a little petroleum jelly as I can't seem to be able to fine my silicon grease anywhere.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
That's a good shot of the screen, better than some I'v seen. Congrats on getting it to work. Serge should grab that file and include it with his Marlin firmware bundle. Looks great! Did you try it with a reverse image?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz oops. too bad verteez, If you can't find anyone, i'm going to print you a new plate_x.. no problem. I just wonder why you guys want absolutely no bend ? I have here 4 smartraps in production ( to make smartraps and with the right marlin ( with a little hack i did) , I have perfectly plane prints. This hack add an offset to the last probe point ( because of the bending) . Itby markstephen - Smart_Rap
I use AquaNet hair spray to stick my parts. works real well and a quick squirt every 3rd or 4th print keeps it like new. Everything cleans up fast with a little water. Dries real fast and is ready to go in moments.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I get those warnings all the time, never stopped the firmware from working. I have had no luck what so ever getting that image to display. My Spyderbreath spider works without a hitch. I'm still looking at it too.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
You can do one of two things. 1. You can reduce your image to 60x60 and change the #define START_BMPHEIGHT 64 - to - #define START_BMPHEIGHT 60 and be good to go, or 2. You can leave your image 64x64 and change the #define START_BMPWIDTH 60 - to - #define START_BMPWIDTH 64 and make the adjustments to the text position/size in dogm_lcd_implementation.h starting around line 129 QuoteBackEMby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Shiny, got a full digital display. I'm real glad I got the one I have. I think their much nicer to use than the small 4 line ones. Have anything in mind to customize the welcome screen?by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Another bushing for you all to play around with. This time it's a SC8 type. I'v printed a prototype and it works like a champ. Very light and sturdy. You can check it out here on Thingiverse. This made in the same fashion as the LMF8 type bushing. Please let me know how they work if you try one. I have seen several mods that have used this type of bearing (SC8) and Blackfrog's build is using theby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Enco has it - Good price, reasonable shipping - Enco 8 mm O1 Drill Rod might as well get the 5mm threaded rod too while your at it, if you don't have it already. Won't add much to the shipping. Enco Threaded Rod 5 mm Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quoteverteez {snip} Aslo, got anny idea why after setting my probe points in merlin for #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 100 //158 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 100 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10 the printer proobes the points around #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 8 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 98 #define BACK_PROBE_by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Yea, I upgrades my J-Head light V1 to the V2 (just the $5 upgrade kit) and it is working flawlessly with PLA. I can go much faster now without any extruder kicking/stripping. The V2 is a really good buy, IMO.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I probe in a smaller area where there is more support / less leverage. We are checking the slop of the bed, not micro-probing for imperfections in the surface. You can set this area in Configuration.h i think the resolution of the Z is enough to determin the overall slope of the bed from a smaller area like 40 x 40 or so. Mark Probing Area.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Not just prototyping, I'm thinking about using them with a modified plate like Blackfrog has done. I'll probably do one pair to receive nuts and use them in an upper/lower type of arrangement. Got new glass today and had them cut a second piece to have on hand - more than one fly out there... I'm printing one out now and I'll post it all over in the Smartrap evolution, improvements... thread. Doby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Ok Mark, Sorry... But that was funny... LOL... Post the STL for that bearing please... I think that'll work nice for Cliff... Edit: Doh, missed the link. I've got it now. Thanks Yea, I kind of laughed about it too after I go over the initial shock and massacred that fly. I would of posted the 2D drawing of it as well, but neither this forum or Thingiverse will display .svg foby markstephen - Smart_Rap
OK, from dimentions found here -> I did the bushing with 1/3 twist, 5 lands, a proven design for these bushings. I have not printed this out yet as there was a mishap involving me, online FPS, my Smartrap glass build plate, and a fly landing on my ear. All of which were in to close proximity to each other. It will be tomorrow until I can get another piece of glass. Anyway, if any of you wantby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I really need to find some time to learn FreeCAD. :-) All you need do is dive in. Your signed up for the forum (at least I think your the same BackEMF). More than happy to help you out. QuoteBackEMF Lets see if we might be able to make a printed LMF08UU? That's easy enough... give me a bit and I'll have one for you to try. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Hi Kamil, did you put a Z lift command in your start section of the Gcode? Something like G1 Z5 F3000 to move the nozzle out of the bed after the probing? If you put that line after your G29 command, it will lift the Z axis 5 mm and then move on to the start point of the print. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Here's a question - How thick is the glass you all are using for your plate? I am using 3/32" (~2.4 mm) and the Glass Support parts, (the new ones) are way too tall to hold that thickness of glass. It's easy enough to make these fit, just wondering if there is a standard or preferred thickness for the plate? Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Servoless and loving it.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Hi there BackEMF , It looks like your start height is off. It should be something less than your nozzle dia. I have my start/layer height set at .2 mm sense I am currently using a .4 nozzle. Seems to work well like that. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
the set up the steps per mm, you really need to know the exact diameter of the adapter and the line. Most any cheap digital calipers will get you more than close enough. Once you have the steps calculated, a couple of test prints like a 1 cm cube will tell you how much and in which direction you need to adjust your scale in your slicer to have it come out just right. Anyway, that's what I did andby markstephen - Smart_Rap