Nice build. When you mention - QuoteBiggest problem I've run into is when autoleveling my X-axis stepper sometimes bottoms out on the extruder bearing screw prior to triggering the Z-endstop... not cool. - What size steppers are those? They look kind of long, like real long. I just measured and if your using 48 mm NEMA 17's then I can see it hitting. Maybe the best way to "fix" that is to maby markstephen - Smart_Rap
The way I set my offset is to home Z. (G28 X0 Y0 Z0) and then, being servoless, move the Z axis up .1 mm at a time until I can slip a piece of paper underneath the nozzle, then down until it just grabs the paper. I make note of how far I needed to move Z and that amount is the offset. If your using the "No Servo" version of the firmware, don't worry about negative ( - ) numbers not being on the Lby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Well, to be clear, it's not "my" FreeCAD, I'm only a minor contributor. If it's anyone's, it's Jürgen Riegel's but I get what your saying. I am a rabid advocate. Smartrap, FreeCAD, and young'uns... Good match. Minimum investment, maximum return. Sounds like a very economical way to discover interest and aptitude. When your ready to dig into FreeCAD, don't be shy, hit us up on the FreeCAD forumby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Regpye, I can't wait till you have those tested and post them. Really Nice. Mark, can you make bearings that just bolt down thru the stepper holes? Mentioned that in this post. I originally was thinking that there was not enough clearance in there for that, but looking at it again... Maybe, but it would be very close. Serge did a great job compacting the original design, which lby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Ah, shiny. I forgot, this is a second machine, right? I'll take it that the J-head fit in the holder OK? Mine was just a half hair tight or maybe I should just say snug, but that probably has more to do with slicer/printer calibration.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Nice looking print. Haven't gotten around to ordering one of the V2's yet, a spool of PLA got ahead of it by a week or so. I'll be interested to hear how it works out extruding PLA.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
If your wanting one now, you can always buy/build one today and print the mods yourself.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF thx, it looks reasonable now, now i need to get the PLA to stick to the glass what is the temerature when PLA is most sticky? How do i see when it's to hot or too cold? Do i have to move the nozzle closer to the glass? and when am i too close? You want to use something to help the PLA stick. Some use blue tape, others use a wster / white glue mix. Me, I use Aqua Net Hairspray. Thby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Can anyone please share their Cura settings etc. I received my PLA today an started a print, thoughthe extruder doesnt seem to be strong enough to push the PLA trough PTFE + hot end in i manually push the PLA a bit more then the PLA oozes a bit, the stepper humms a bit as in... 'i'm not strongh enough' This is my first printer, so unfortunately i can't simply print an airtripper.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
i came up with what I think is a reasonable stop gap solution to the flexing problem and seems to be working well. It should hold me over until a more permanent solution can be conjured up. All i did was knock out a couple of made to fit C Clamps and feet to hold down the front of the holder. Works a treat... I need to make a little adjustment before I upload the files, that is, if anyone is intby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Got my filament in! I'm printing Leftie today. Got my Jhead Lite V2 ready to drop in. Let me know how it goes. Did you get the latest version? It's working out real well for me. Very happy with it. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteTCase Quotemarkstephen A sneak-peek at the bushing plate. Hope to be testing later on today / tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Mark You need the mount for the limit switch. Woops, wasn't paying attention. But it might be worth trying to incorporate the stepper mounting screws. If it could be done it would be 1l less screw (and nut) and wouls gaurantee the bearings didn't wobble aboutby markstephen - Smart_Rap
The problem with printing the plate "all in one" is the issue of lamination. Sense this assembly couples the X and Z there are stresses on both those planes. I would believe that is why the bottom plate is currently printed laying flat and the current bearing clamps are printed up on their sides. Now, after running the Gcode through a simulator, and not overly thrilled about the time involved iby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Yes, made to fit on top of the plate. the 2 tabs in the back a suppose to fit into the 2 rear LM8 bearing slots to keep it square. Thicker center section to stop the twisting. Lands are 1:165 twist, or in other words, they make 1/3 turn for the length. ~1 mm width bearing surface per land which works out to around 1:5 contact:free surface area on the rods. keep in mind this is only a first run anby markstephen - Smart_Rap
A sneak-peek at the bushing plate. Hope to be testing later on today / tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Put the Smartrap logo on your fan shield for your jhead too, if you don't mind... Oh, you want me to knock out a Smartrap logo fan guard? Let me see what I can do, after I get this current project hammered out. Almost done with the v 1.0 in CAD on that one.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
The LCD I got was a package deal with the Arduino, RAMPS1.4, and 5 Stepper Drivers. My Smartrap, not counting the PLA, I was under $260.00 US. (including shipping) Shop around on Ebay. It's a clone of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controler. For the LCD unit it's self, look at something like this or this or this. There are a bunch more. Having the Full display is kind of nice, and it wby markstephen - Smart_Rap
+1 on the good idea for this thread. Right now, from my perspective, about the only weak link - if there is one - is the X axis and the way the bearings are held in place. The way it is now, with the added pressure while doing the bed probing "No Servo" style, there is a little bit of flex. Enough to throw the bed level of 10 -20 microns. What I'm currently thinking of doing is making what isby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Give this one a try. If your motors move in the wrong direction, flip the motor wire plug.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
I was thinking about doing something between that, and the stock coupler.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I see, i thought the 3 point was the default? Though after i enable GRID, G29 still does not probe anything And If i manually give a G29 in the terminal. then it responds with echo:Home X/Y before Z but there is no probing action Humm... Would you like to attach your Configure.h file. I'll take a look and see what might be the problem. Sorry, but i do have to ask, you are recomby markstephen - Smart_Rap
In your Configure.h file you will see a section like this - #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID // with AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID, the bed is sampled in a // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTSxAUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS grid // and least squares solution is calculated // Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID // set the rectangle in which to probe #defiby markstephen - Smart_Rap
What I ended up doing was to copy the Configuration.h and pins.h filed from this post - - and edit the Configuration.h to my machine. Believe me, I struggled too.by markstephen - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Mark, your link is missing an e in free... I just signed up over there. I've never used a CAD package in my life, but that's what I want to do, and part of the point of owning a printer... So expect lots of stupid questions over there. Thanks - fixed the link - what I get for not checking - sorry! Give me a heads up to your user name there and I'll keep a look out for you. Firstby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Happy to here you found the test code useful. If your planing on diving into FreeCAD, I would seriously suggest you sign up for the FreeCAD forum. There is a learning curve but it's not that hard, and once you get the basics down, you will find it to be quite powerful/ You'll probably find more than one person there that is here as well, including my own self, (quick61 there). We'll help you ouby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Just did a new update to the Right and left J-Head Light Arm. I made the fingers a little longer and wider / a bit more robust as the orignal was just a bit off if the print was not perfict. So with error on the side of caution as soon as I'm done typing here, I'll be uploading the updates to Thingiverse. I think you can see what was done by comparing the new version below to the second pic in tby markstephen - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF 10mm shaft 0.3 string: 3.1415*(10+0.3)=32.35745 200*16/32.35745=98.895308499 or 98.89 Configuration.h #define motors1840 // version motors 1.8 degres, 40mm long . this one has a shaft adaptor and changes steps #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {98.89,98.89,4000,83} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85} robotdigg.shaft adaptor,fishline big so this should be ok nowby markstephen - Smart_Rap
Should work just fine. The trick is to get decent PLA to run through it. I'm running the J-Head Light V1 with a .4 at the moment and I have a .3 nozzle. Just have the right layer height for good bonding. Markby markstephen - Smart_Rap
The default is yes, just a 4 mm nut threaded in to the tube holds it very well. When I threaded my nuts on, (J-head uses one on the other end too), I had to use a drill bit to ream out the ends of the tube as the nut compressed the ID a bit. No drill motor, just a couple of turns with my fingers spinning the bit. The plastic is rather soft and it doesn't take much. There are mods out there for thby markstephen - Smart_Rap