I do believe it's your memory ( it happened to me a few times ). You should try to do a M502 to reset the eeprom values.. take care, it will do a big change with all values reset to default ( the one you set in config.h).by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
The one in thingiverse is up to datewith the models. I need to update the one in github with last version.. but the only change would be the endstops. The last version use ready made mechanical endstops ( with small board ). I will adjust the model anyway to have both boards and switch working ..then the BOM is ok.by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Thank you Mandrav, it is clear expnanation. But your problem could be that is you do only a G29 , the Z is only going down for 15mm max ( it's a software security). That's why we usually make a home Z before. To try, you need to be around 10 mm above the bed.by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
sorry for that I'ts historycal reason . The smartrap was suposed to be used at 90 degres from how it is used now.. so the X and Y inverted.by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
thank you for your feedback, I will certainly make the attach larger , so the fan won't touch the heating block anymore.. it's not suposed to happendby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
standard marlin should work well , as works repetier firmware .. Smartrap is really a standard reprap ( ramps 1.4 everywhere). We have a marlin for simplicity of settings, and because i did a little hack to adjust some offset on the Z axis ( the one coming to you because of the probes making little errors due to the smartrap's design. I cleaned the github lately and there now only one versionby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
personnaly i had a very short and quiet bad experience with brushing.. as with the smartrap, X and Y axis rods are in porte a faux.. we need some balls (no joke here to take the forces along the axis. I understand well it works when you have only sliding forces .. like on I3 x axis .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
hi, For having used all three systems in production ( fishing line , R&P and belts), i have to say now i prefer belts for accuracy and simplicity of assembly ( especially with the last version where you just fit in ) . Fishing line was great because of the price and precision but need some maintenance , R&P are great but a little hard to adjust .. a little too far and you have backslash,by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Thank you very much no..no complex shapes. just squares ..well , parallelepipeds simple wood..or whatever exotic nice wood people like..that's the purpose . ( metal would work too i guess, but here in France we get only wood, basically).by smartfriendz - General
haaa. thank you deuxvis, I admit i've missed this part of the mendel90 project (sorry nophead . I have exactly this same idea .. I will look for informations there. thanksby smartfriendz - General
Hello, Working on a new project, i was wondering if , as i suppose, there is everywhere in the world a local store where we can ask to cut wood and get some nice square and precise pieces ? I ask here , as i know reprapers are located a little of everywhere on our nice planet If you feel like, just tell here if i'm right or if it doesn't exist in your country , or too far to be practical .by smartfriendz - General
Hi greg, thank you for this great feedback. I understand all your points and i agree with most of them . The thing is the development of the smartrap has been made a little too much in hurry for some months now. The main goal is indeed to make the most easy to assemble reprap while keeping a good quality , but until I take a little more time to re-thing more deeply, we will mostly turn aroundby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Hi greg, sorry i didn't remember you had an old version.With the integrated extruder without screw, if it doesn't work, it won't work. I will make you a new set if you wnat. It's not normal this way, it should have work long time ago already . I can't remember if you have fishing lines or rack&pinions ?by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Hi greg, I can for waiting print you a new extruder parts, it's fast and easy to send. For the redesign, it will take a few days more i'm affraid. I'm fighting with modelling a good support ( we need a little breakable support to attach the back of the body to the main plate_base to make it more solid.by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
sorry for the extruder zackary.. it's still too fragile. I'm redesigning actually to make it more solid. the idler will have two parts so it doesn't bend and the body will have something to prevent it to bend too . Sometimes it works well but after hours printing this model always bend under force + heat. It's the weak point and that for long time..anoying you're so right backemf, I realiby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
thank you christian.. yes. it's a problem about the two forums. We try to make the official one the main source, but it takes time. on the other side, i like to have still a "house" here in reprap.org. I'm about to update the page here too to be more up to date . It's important to me to keep active in this place . I got also thingiverse with 900 comments, so i'm used to browse on diferent plaby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
thank you for those feedback . IT helps to have a better view of what we could bring to the community ...and new 3d printers it's hard to decide, i think i will try all solutions before starting some shared thoughts about the design in a thread. But i want to do that for sure .. i would be very happy to have a design that is done from a community .. maybe try to find a real time shared 3d desiby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
hi mark , It's good you've been busy ! I know freecad takes you a lot of time and everyone must be happy of your energy in the project yes, beeing printable is no 1 . I even think about even more printable and less extra parts . I've always said there must be at least one project like this as the others went all to metal . I understand perfectly why of course and it's really normal they do .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
To be honest, i didn't want to be too much like the printrbot but the real reason is history reason : at the beginning, i couldn't have the Z rods to be turned 90 because it made a base plate too big for the printer i had ( limited to 100x100 printing size). I know it''s crazy but it's true. I think i will try to have a version like regpye did very soon.. it's obvious we get more stability onby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
so maybe i had good luck ? I've found a provider here in next village with smooth rods 6 and 8 mm steel at 4 euros/m of good quality, and after some tests, i've found a good provider for lm6uu and lm8uu on aliexpress. For now, i have good result even after 100 hours printing . I prersonaly hear more the steppers singing than the rods ( but it's very personal feeling i guess ? ) .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
ho boy ... tha'ts bad . I really didn't know it could be a problem those 6mm sorry about that . .. I will have a look how to re-integrate the all 8mm version . It doesn't change so much for me . thank you for your feedback by the way. it's very interestingby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
that's interesting. i wouldn't think 6mm was a bad idea.. I did because i thought it would be more light for X and Y axis , and i thought lm6uu and 6mm rods was as easy as 8mm to find and even a little less expensive ? ( mine cost a little less than 8 ). It's easy to doall in 8mm , i've kept the models with 8mm ( we have 0,4,9,2 in 8mm too with GT2 ) .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
yes knife.. the plates on thingiverse are up to date and there is a jhead lite support on them. on github, you can find it at : stl / release / endx_jheadlite.stl , arm and attachby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
wow ! that's impressive . I didn't see such good and detailled tests before . thank you so much Christian . ( can i link here from smartfriendz's forum too ? ) Now we all want to try those filaments.. I wanted to try wood for a long time but never had time to do.. let's try I'm sure we will have better experience and less tries than you.thanks to this reportby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
hi knife, This version uses 6mm rods and lm6uu . Also , it's the huxley type hotend support. I should put more explanation and more options online , with clear infos..as we have a lot of diferent options now.. my bad .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
haha. cool the funny thing is : i did the same at home but didn't put it online .. i had one bad printer i couldn't manage to know why it wasn't straight on Y . and it works, right ?by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Hi touche.. there's something in the doc i do bad : start gcode in slic3r settings or in cura settings : please put this sequence ( slic3r version ) : custom gcode : start gcode : M109 S;set extruder temp and start heating G28 X0 Y0 Z0;home X and Y and Z G29 ;probe bed G90; set absolute coordinates G92 E0; reset extruder distance G1 Z3 F3000; get out of the bed after probe G1 X10 Y10 F3000by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
hi shootquinn, for the flex, i've setup a hack in marlin on our github. It's in configuration.h at line 412 : #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0 you can enter a value here , like 0.2 to ..whatever you feel is good this will add an offset to the last Z probe to recover from the extra Z coming from the flexing . It gave very good result until now ( logically ) .by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
yes reg, i forgot to say they where high end quality and not price ! it's maybe the most important, sorry for the extruder, i had good result lately in production with the small direct drive and nk7..but still at 60mm/s and the drive printed at 50% fill or more , to be more solid.by smartfriendz - Smart_Rap
Im not surprised of this good result with reg hot-end. They are obviously high end hot endsby smartfriendz - Smart_Rap