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Quotewaitaki
10mm?
Crikey!
The extruder was almost certainly unable to keep up. Where on earth did you get that setting from?
That is the default in Cura, I certainly didn't set that!
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rich1051414
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Printing
It is a direct feed, but it feeds into a E3d V6, which has a pretty long heatsink. There is also a 10mm gap between the bottom of the extruder stepper and the top of the hotend.
Regardless, reducing the retraction distance from 10mm to 2mm has alleviated the problem. I think the issue was the retraction was too far and strings were flash cooling then clogging things up.
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rich1051414
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Printing
I provided a picture showing the teeth of the gear is biting into the filament. Also, it is a brand new extruder, so its not jamming. I will check my retraction to see if that is a problem, but as far as the pinch roller pressure, I think that is sufficient given how much the gear is biting into the filament.
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rich1051414
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Printing
I have had a reoccurring issue that has plagued me ever since I got into 3d printing, and I really do not know what it is. Eventually, my printer will start stripping filament halfway through a print, but I cannot figure out why. It even did it on the first print of a brand new authentic e3d v6 hotend. I have eliminated all possible culprits except for one, the feeder assembly. It uses a grooved
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rich1051414
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Printing
I had a similar issue, which turned out to be a loose y belt clamp, which allowed the bed to have a little play. The y would drift a tiny bit back and forth every pass leading to walls that looked like yours.
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rich1051414
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Printing
This is an issue that has happened multiple times in a row, and I can't understand why. I even disconnected my part cooling fan as I thought it was the cause, but nope. Anyone have any idea?
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rich1051414
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Printing
Yeah, I know it will print prettier slower, I just rushed one out to show how the earlier issues were alleviated. The printer is doing great now. My earlier issues had nothing to do with print speed, but with faulty design of the 3d printer, corrected with a lot of modification.
Anything above 45mm/sec looks quite sloppy, but I am accepting that. I think the issue is primarily due to the sheer
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
If you are going to mount the smoke detector somewhere, shouldn't it be over the power supply and/or ramps, the most likely point of electrical fire?
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rich1051414
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Safety & Best Practices
If I am smelling anything when I am printing PETG... something went drastically wrong and plastic is burning on the hot end. I normally can't smell anything at all. Even with PLA, it smells sweet... almost like oatmeal.
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rich1051414
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General
These are plastic shelled PSU's, so it isn't a concern. These are long pack PSU's, like you would see for laptops. They were intended to power long strings of LED's, btw. Thanks for confirming that it should be ok. I am a programmer, so my electronics knowledge is strictly theoretical
I have connected a hall effect ohmmeter to each power supply, and the load seems to be balancing nicely, that w
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rich1051414
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Safety & Best Practices
Thanks, all my issues have now been alleviated. Z bracing corrected my issues with the z-banding, and upgrading the hot end fixed my issues with stringing and inconsistent filament flow.
This is how it is looking at the very sloppy settings of 0.2mm and 65mm/sec.(I am also now using a 0.4mm nozzle, with an E3d v6 hotend)
Printed in PETG
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
So gluestick is disgusting and leaves a gloppy mess on the bed that has to be painstakingly cleaned up periodically and leaves the bottom of prints gross. Hairspray makes beautiful prints, but makes my whole printer look absolutely disgusting due to overspray. Anyone have a solution to this? I currently use PEI, and I don't need to use any sort of adhesive for PLA, but I don't only print in PLA.
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
What does your part cooling fan curve look like? Does the part cooling speed change harshly around the z level the prints start looking nicer? Does the temp of the hot end get shocked when the part cooling fan kicks on?
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rich1051414
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Printing
My printer has dual z steppers, and it does get tiresome having to measure the gantry height on each side and square it off every time. Is there an improvement I can do that will make it stay square?
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rich1051414
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Safety & Best Practices
My last printer would fail to upload unless I had it's power supply turned off and uploaded with only USB power. I think there was a bug with the ramps board. You could try that as well.
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
I found the problem, it has to do with the y axis belt tensioner. The vibrations were causing the bolts to come loose before it finished one print. I put some loctite on the threads and this was the result.
Not perfect yet but getting there. Any other recommendations? From searching, I think I might have also narrowed down my z-band issue, which has to do with the threaded rod for the Z axis
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
Recently finished building my Hictop Prusa i3, but it still has a lot of calibration left to be done. Decided to print out a benchy, and it, unsurprisingly, has quite a few problems. If anyone knows exactly what causes this, give me some input
This is how it looks RIGHT off the print bed, no clean up was done for an authentic representation. Printed in PLA at 190C, with a cooling fan at var
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
From my understanding, you can print ABS with a cooling fan, but the climate has to be controlled so that the air blown is hot enough to not warp the part but cool enough to solidify it. Basically, only in an enclosure with the ambient temp being monitored and controlled.
Cooling ABS when not enclosed would cause layer delamination and severe part warping, right?
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rich1051414
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General
Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but I have questions that are relavent and posting it here for prosperity seems appropriate.
I am currently having issues finding the right acceleration and jerk. My problem is, if I decrease the jerk, and increase the speed, its great, but if I then decrease the speed for a higher quality print, the lowered jerk then causes problems with corners blobbing up. Is
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rich1051414
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General
So today my hictop prusia i3's power supply died, no violence or anything to make it interesting. First I checked the fuse, and it did not pop. Saddened, I tossed the power supply.
I have no other power supplies in that style, but I have a ton of other power supplies. First I tried rewiring an ATX power supply, but the bed wouldn't heat fast enough. I realized the problem was the 12v output. My
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rich1051414
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Safety & Best Practices
Make sure you don't have a gap where the nozzle meets the throat.
When assembling screw the nozzle in first, all the way tight, then back it out 2 full turns. Then screw the heat break into the heat block until it bumps into the nozzle, then snug down the nozzle. After assembly, and heating it up to temp the first time, snug up the nozzle again, to compensate for thermal expansion. If you do thi
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
I'm an idiot. Apparently this printer has a safety feature my last printer did not have. You cannot send power to the extruder unless the temp is at least 180c to prevent you from stripping out filament or burning out things.
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rich1051414
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Reprappers
I am using a Hictop prusa i3, and on my first test print, I saw the extruder struggling, so I broke it down to see if the extruder body was interfering(when building, i just threw away the plastic body extruder and used a metal one I had instead). After removing the bearing so the extruder had zero load, I sent the command to extrude, and the motor did nothing. It wasn't even locked and spun free
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rich1051414
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Reprappers