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Cura seems to be stupid with thin walls. It either wants 2 lines, or 0 lines. Slic3r seems to do thin walls better. That really sucks that your driver blew up though. Can you use an unused extruder channel as an axis?
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Change your aceleration values! This improved my prints by a massive amount, and it fixes those "echo" ripples seen on flat sections. Try this print: bring them down by factors of 10 first. IE: 5000 to 500 ect.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
My printer just got its heated bed rebuilt by me (110 degrees on a standard sheet of glass!) But my prints have been suffering, and I dont know why. The start and stop of the lines is very poor. Hopefully the image helps show it. The bottom of the part is very inconsistant, but the top is nice. I am using cura, as well as a printrboard clone running Up-Marlin. I have changed my aceleration values
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
>>INCOMING WALL OF TEXT<<
Try connecting the motor to another motor using the same color wires. Then spin one motor really fast. The other one should either copy or mirror its behavior. Then repeat the test, but swap each motor's jobs. If the motors both behave the same, then they should both be able to turn each other with the same amount of force and they both work as intended. How
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
Get a twoup 3d printer. Dirt cheap, and completely modder friendly. Mine hardly has any original parts anymore.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Also, try printing with a 200-300% extrusion width for the first layer (cura)
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
I find that an elmers dissappearing purple gluestick works very well, and that if you then go over it with a paper towl and hot water (with the bed at 50 degrees) you can get the bed stickier. My ABS hardly warps and my bed only reaches 55 degrees (40w bed)
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
Either sand the tape, or print on glass with a thin layer of gluestick. I can print ABS at 50 degrees without warp
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
Use acceleration to fix the corners, and try different temperatures/extrusion multipliers.
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
I source all of my linear rods from flatbed scanners. HP scanners seem to always have 400mm x 8mm linear rods.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quotebassnfool
I appreciate the info and plan to practice removing stuff from a circuit board. I will not be using it to solve this problem... Marty, the kit vender i bought my kit from & designer ot the ts, offered to replace my ramps board no charge and asked that I send the damaged one back.
Very nice of them! Glad they solved this.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quotebassnfool
Zavashier,
That's what I thought it was based on other post... The led is indeed on constantly. I have never removed anything soldered on a circuit board before. Is the a home-brew solder sucker?
Thanks...
Bassnfool
Homebrew sucker. Though for a mosfet, just put a large blob of solder across all 3 pins, and melt it. It should pull out easily once all the solder melts. The
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quotepineapple
Quoteiamdarkyoshi
Print slow! Aceleration also helps.
Acceleration?
It is in the eeprom settings. It makes it so the printer doesnt go from one direction to another in an instant. Imagine driving a car at a constant 60mph, then taking a turn. Now try slowing down befofe the turn, and speeding up afterwards. I put my aceleration speeds lower, and the quality improved drastically.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Print slow! Aceleration also helps.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
The ultimaker 1/2 printers can reach extremely fast speeds. The motors are strong and the head is lightweight. It uses a bowden style extruder. The twoup 3d printer is a cheap printer that has bad gantry sag as one side of the gantry isnt supported. With my bowden e3d v6 printhead, is is so light that it doesnt even matter and I can do up to 100mm/s on that thing. Not super fast but not too bad.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Does anyone know if I could use my printrboard controller for a delta? Is the arduino fast enough and has compatable delta firmware?
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quotedc42
Try adding G92 E0 to the start gcode.
I would try this. It fixed my issue. Some slicers do not automagically add it, and it ends up taking a whole bunch of filament out. Cura seems to do this. It ends up telling the extruder to move from wherever it is currently to 0, and makes a mess. Adding this line of code fixed mine.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Make sure that the gcode in the slicer is configured correctly. My first print did the same thing, the printer didnt have endstops, so it just tried to kill itself when the gcode told it to "calibrate home" so i adjusted the gcode so it would reset each axis to 0. My guess is that because you have working endstops, that the start gcode configuration isnt doing what it should.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Make sure that the gcode in the slicer is configured correctly. My first print did the same thing, the printer didnt have endstops, so it just tried to kill itself when the gcode told it to "calibrate home" so i adjusted the gcode so it would reset each axis to 0. My guess is that because you have working endstops, that the start gcode configuration isnt doing what it should.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
I just wanted to see if there are any regulatory markings on the pcb (such as a date code, revision number, ect)
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
I really do not know what to recommend for the driver, but a solid state relay should do nicely. My bed only goes up to 60 degrees (until i raise the voltage on the supply) , but with a gluestick on glass, warping usually isnt an issue. My bed draws less than 50 watts, so that is why I am using the controller as a driver, as it takes nearly the same current as the hotend. But with a larger aplica
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
When i built a new extruder for my 3d printer using a stepper and gear drive from a scanner, I simpley had to change the eeprom settings to a different steps/mm. It basically means "how many steps should I turn this motor to move 1mm?"
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
I posted an image of 4 resistors in a series/ parallel configuration. Take 2 thermistors and put them in parallel. Do this again. Then take each set and put them in series. Wire the whole lot to the thermistor input and configure as if it is one thermistor. If each thermistor is 100k nominal, wiring 2 thermistors in parallel results in a 50k nominal. Then take two of these sets, in series, and yo
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Parallel if you want to drive them at full power. I would experiament with a sheet of glass (I got mine from a scanner) a fiberglass cieling tile, and some nichrome wire (dead hairdryer) I found that 12v = ~40 feet of wire. Just attach it to the bottommin a zigzag pattern using pet tape or kapton tape wiring each section in parallel . Then buy a quality thermistor, and attach it to the underside
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
Nice that they offered to fix it, my anubis got clogged to the point where it couldnt be fixed, so i got an E3D V6, and I love it. I am rebuilding the printer, and every time i try to print something huge (I always need to be near it incase something stupid happens) it skipps steps whe I am not looking. Every time I turn the current up, it fixes it, and a week later it misbehaves again...
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
I use glass from a flatbed scanner (and the stepper motor assembly for the extruder, it weighs nothing) and the glass can be scored and cut with a cheap scoring tool.
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
can we get an image of the bare board (if removing things isnt too much of a hassle)
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iamdarkyoshi
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General
I meant the coldend (the part with the heatsink/fan) but I guess a nozzle clog would also cause issues.
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
hmm... how hot is the coldend? It should be cool to the touch.
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
they layers arent cooling quick enough. Print 6 at once. Mine do the same thing when printing single small objects. Also, make sure that your line thickness equals your nozzle by tweaking the extrusion multiplier.
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iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
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