Thanks for your reply Srek. Couple of questions on your setup, what type of silicon heater did you use? (AC/DC) and how did you affix the silicon heater to the aluminium plate?by minor59er - Mechanics
Hi All, I am looking to build another printer in the style of a coreXY (HBot maybe) and I thought I would start of looking at heated beds. I know there's a lot more to consider, but I thought I'd start here. My thoughts on what would like from a heated bed are: Removable print surface Reasonable heat-up time Bed size around 250x250 The Mk52 fullfills these requirements, but I want to know whaby minor59er - Mechanics
I used a DRV8825 to drive two 42BYGHW811 stepper motors, with no issue. Yes the stepper motors were the wrong size for the application, but it worked. My thoughts on running a driver for each motor would be that you need the full power of each motor for the application. The fact that the motors on the Z axis are on very little compared to the other axes you there's no real advantage of driving tby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Dust, I will take that into consideration as a final option. I don't know if anyone has experienced this before, but I just replace my server PSU with a MeanWell PSU, and I think the heatbed and fuse are doing better. Could the server PSU start to have malfunctioned and somehow let more current through?by minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Connect the wires of both the motors together. Eg. If you have Green, Red, Blue, Black wires, then connect the corresponding Green, Red, Blue, Black wires from the other motor. Depending on what type of control board you are using, sometimes there are two connector ports available for the Z stepper motors which is then driven off the one stepper driver. On the RAMPS 1.4, there are two spots fby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Just an update: I swapped the IRF3205 for the IRLB8743PBF MOSFET that SteveRoy mentioned above and It was warm to the touch after the heatbed was heating up. Next problem... The fuse! When I was heating up the heatbed with the new MOSFET installed, I was still seeing the same problem as before but this time the fuse was over heating. Any suggestions on a replacement for the XX30 UF900 bed fusby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy On the cheap Chinese RAMPS I have always changed the heat bed MOSFET to a IRLB8743PBF My last couple of builds I have been using a RAMPS from StaticBoards. Much better quality. Thanks Steve, I will try get a hold of some IRLB8743PBF MOSFETs. I will also try the RAMPS board from StaticBoards. On another note, I switched to using #define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING with #define MAX_BED_by minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
I thought it was the thermistor or the PCB heater bed so I ordered a new thermistor and a MK3 Alu heater bed. Still having the same issue. Maybe the MK3 Alu bed pulls too much for the MOSFET to handle.by minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi All, Hopefully this is the correct place to be posting this. Setup: - Prusa i3 Rework. - RAMPS 1.4 - MK2a PCB heatbed Issue: Heater bed only heats up to a 50 degrees before it cuts out. Troubleshooting steps taken: Tested the voltage on the heater bed output while the heater bed is heating up. Observed the voltage slowly dropping until it quickly drops to 0 volts. Upon further investby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello All, Since seeing Tech2C's HyperCube and Fusion's F306, I have been wanting to build a CoreXY printer. As of current, I have built myself a Prusa i3 Rework that has served me very well of the last couple of years. My goals for this new CoreXY printer is to have a larger print area and to increase the print speed. I am looking to take elements from both the HyperCube and the F306 for my bby minor59er - CoreXY Machines
If anyone is/was interested, I reprinted the Z axis supports and voila! Straight...er prints. But if anyone else is having issues with non right angle frames, follow Supermec advise.by minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
So I disassembled the X/Z axis last night to see if I could move anything around. Measured the opposite diagonals and yes, they are out by a few mills compared to each other. Assembled everything again an did a calibration test cube and measured the angle of the X axis and its out about 1.5 degrees (~91.5°). The printed frame parts were printed by someone else, so I might print them off again anby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSupermec No, there isn't a way that you can compensate for that. You need to slacken all the fastenings that hold the frame together, and set the frame up so that the X axis is square to the Y axis. The best way to check that is to measure the two opposite diagonals, which should be of equal length. Then tighten everything up without moving it. Thanks for the response. I did look around onby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi All. First time posting. I've had my Prusa i3 Rework for about 3 years now. It is running a RAMPS 1.4 board with Marlin firmware. Over the years I have tinkered with it an tried to get it running as smooth as possible. But I have one problem with it. I have noticed that the x axis prints on a slant. I have printed a couple of the XYZ 20mm calibration cube to confirm what axis it was. When Iby minor59er - Prusa i3 and variants