Quotethe_digital_dentist Try wiggling the extruder/carriage and the build plate. If either will move it is liable to be such movement caused by sloppy bearings or flexing guide rails/printer frame that causes the ripple. It doesn't have to move much to have an effect on the print. That pattern occurs where X (or is it Y?) is accelerating/decelerating. What is the microstepping ratio? How fasby drmaestro - Printing
My acceleration is 1000. Vxy jerk is 15, Vz jerk is 000.40, Ve jerk is 5. Vmax x, and y are 500, Vmax z is 2, Vmax e is 25 Amax x and y are 3500, Amax z is 100, Amax e is 2000 , Aretract is 2000.by drmaestro - Printing
Thanks for the info and thanks for the correction on the Arduino. I somehow thought it was 16 bits. One of the reasons I was looking into steppers is because of the noise they make. They are not very noisy amplitude-wise but they are prone to create vibrations. My steppers were bought used (Minebea brand), so I don't know if that is a factor (I've read that steppers are very resilient, so that mby drmaestro - Reprappers
Thanks for the detailed information. I am on the classic RAMPS system, so I am working with 16 bit electronics and my PSU is 12 volts. That means my current steppers would do the job. As you know there are many NEMA 17 steppers out there and I was wondering if there was a difference in the precision of the available units. The reviews at sparkfun mentioned better surface quality with these steppeby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I'd like to ask if it is worth to upgrade stepper motors controlling the X and Y axis in a cartesian printer. I've seen these steppers: They seem to have a lower step angle (0.9 degrees) compared to the more common 1.8 degree ones. Would it provide better resolution and better surface print quality? Do you have any other recommendations for upgrading steppers? Thanks....by drmaestro - Reprappers
I wanted to add another picture: This is the picture of a very tall support structure generated by Simplify3D. I took a photo of the support from the left side (upper part of the photo) and from the right side (lower part of the photo) and composed them as a single picture. I've also used a light source nearly paralelle to the support to accentuate the irregularities on the layers. What I canby drmaestro - Printing
Sorry, I meant adjacent layers, not inner and outer layer. Each layer follows the same direction (counter-clockwise). I am using a 8x8 threaded rod. It has 4 starts of 2 mms (=8 mm). My Z layer height is generally 0,2 mm, so that shouldn't be a problem according to the calculator.by drmaestro - Printing
Hi, Thanks for the detailed answer. The error happens in both axes (it isn't limited to X or Y). I use Simplify3D as slicer software. The outer and inner layer are both printed in the same direction. I don't use auto-leveling. I did tighten my belt system. I don't have a Z axis coupler in my actual construction, as the threaded rod is incorporated inside the stepper itself. I printed the saby drmaestro - Printing
Hi. Could you help me identify a print issue I have? For a long time I've fought with z-wobble issues due to a slightly bent threaded rod and also tried to find the best coupling option for the motor. I've since replaced my motor and rod system with one which has a threaded rod directly coming out of the motor (those sold on robotdigg). This solved the problem with the bent rod and couplings buby drmaestro - Printing
QuoteRoger123D Those axes most likely belt driven you may be feeling the belts turning the steppers as you move them. If it was me I would undo each bearing from the carriage and slide them along the rods to see if they run smooth and replace any bad ones. You could take the bearing off the rod to get down inside to put some bearings grease in them but that won't help if they are worn or full ofby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I am trying to improve the printing quality of my printer. One of the problems I have is vibration. The device is too noisy and the Y carriage or the X carriage don't seem to slide easily, although the stepper can move them without a problem. There are two kinds of bearings used: The Y carriage uses SCe08UU type bearings and the X carriage uses LMe08UU type. My question is as follows: How cby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I was wondering if there is progress on alternatives to PTFE used in hotends. Replacing PTFE liners with glass tubes or zirconium tubes would allow us to use higher printing temperatures that are not achievable using PTFE. I've found some old topics discussing this but didn't hear or see a commercial/non-commercial working example. There is a vendor on Aliexpress who sells glass tubes or zirby drmaestro - General
Hi. I have received the nozzles today. They are in perfect condition. Thanks....by drmaestro - Reprappers
I have ordered 4 of them. I live in Turkey. I hope they'll arrive safely with the letter option....by drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotedrmaestro Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotedrmaestro Hi, I'd like to know how compatible are the different nozzles sold online. Most of the web sites sell MK8 or E3D compatible nozzles so I assume they are a little bit different. My printer has a proprietary hotend and requires teflon tubing on the inside of the nozzle, so the inner diameter of the nozzle has to be 4 mm.by drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotezerodameaon What Version E3D? That is not a V6 nozzle. The E3D Lite6 has a ptfe tube all the way down to the nozzle, but it also uses the same nozzle as the V6 which does not have a tube that goes past he heat break. I did mention the E3D nozzle because of the similarity on how PTFE tube goes into the nozzle (I think that's the lite6 version). I actually don't have one, so I can't compare.by drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quotedrmaestro Hi, I'd like to know how compatible are the different nozzles sold online. Most of the web sites sell MK8 or E3D compatible nozzles so I assume they are a little bit different. My printer has a proprietary hotend and requires teflon tubing on the inside of the nozzle, so the inner diameter of the nozzle has to be 4 mm. Do the MK8 or E3D nozzles have 4 mm inby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I'd like to know how compatible are the different nozzles sold online. Most of the web sites sell MK8 or E3D compatible nozzles so I assume they are a little bit different. My printer has a proprietary hotend and requires teflon tubing on the inside of the nozzle, so the inner diameter of the nozzle has to be 4 mm. Do the MK8 or E3D nozzles have 4 mm inner diameter? If not, is there an alterby drmaestro - Reprappers
I really like it and I think it is as good as any commercial FDM 3d printer out there print qualitywise. It can print with most of the filament types (including more exotic ones). There sure are things that can be improved and I hope the opensource community will be involved with it.by drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I have been using the Sigma 3D printer for a year now and recently its creators decided to make it opensource. Here is the link to download plastic parts and the bill of materials: They have given a link to my blog for assembly instructions (I was neglecting it for a while due to my busy schedule but this has given me incentive to update it (http://www.3dprinterblog.org/) Here is the laby drmaestro - Reprappers
I had a similar problem but it was due to the fans. When the fans started turning on, the temperature dropped 8-9 degrees and then stabilized at the correct temperature. Do you have the fans turned on at the beginning of the print?by drmaestro - General
Quotejinx E3D sells SS nozzles Thanks for the link. I was starting to think that nobody manufactured SS nozzles...by drmaestro - General
I did use it for t-glase after reading an article on their site.It is a transparent epoxy and It makes prints more transparent by filling the empty spaces between layers (normally each layer is ovoid in shape, so the light is refracted, which diminishes transparency. When you fill the gaps between ovoid layers, light is not refracted that much and the print becomes more transparent. My printer hby drmaestro - General
Hi, Thanks to the advances in filament manufacturing technology, we are able to use different filaments with our printers, however this has also brought some problems, especially with filaments containing abrasive materials. It has been suggested to use non-brass, more resistant nozzles with these materials (like the ones containing carbon fiber or metal particles) but I can't find any nozzle maby drmaestro - General
Hi, This can be an odd question but I'd like to know if there is a difference between various PVA brands. I don't use PVA as a support material but as a tool for mold making. I print a shape in PVA, prepare a mold box, use transparent silicone to cover it excluding its poles then use hot water in an ultrasonic bath to dissolve the PVA. This way, I can obtain hollow silicone models shaped like thby drmaestro - Printing
Hi, I had an old Marlin firmware (uploaded on June 2014) which I decided to upgrade today. I made changes in configuration.h and configuration_adv.h to suit my machine (custom built) and when I uploaded it I got a mintemp error on startup. This, of course, prevents printing as it doesn't allow me to increase the hotend's temperature. The mintemp error is generally generated if there is a problemby drmaestro - Reprappers
I get it now. Thank you very much for the info: High temperature for the first layer, then drop it to under glass transition. I'll try that. This can also explain why some of my printed objects tended to be displaced when the print reached a few cms high (due to the upper layers pulling the lower layer which was above glass transition temperature) even tough I print with PLA mostly (which still cby drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotedc42 1. My understanding is that the heated bed temperature should be below the glass transition temperature, not above it. However, when using a glass bed, there is a significant drop in temperature between the bed heater (which is what the thermistor measures) and the top surface if the bed. So the indicated bed temperature may be several degrees above the glass transition temperature, evby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I am writing a blog entry about heated beds but I need some clarifications. Please correct me if anything I write is wrong: "We use heated beds because we want our printed parts to stick to the bed. For this purpose, we have to know the glass transition temperature of the material we are printing with. If we set the heated bed's temperature above the glass transition temperature, the objeby drmaestro - Reprappers
I have changed the cable. I still have a problem: If I set the hotend at 240 degrees and the heated bed at 102 degrees and I start printing, after approximately 7-8 minutes the heatedbed starts to cool down by a few degrees. The LED on the heated bed is still on, so it is trying to keep the bed at the set temperature but is unable to do so. Why do I have this problem? Is this a power supply proby drmaestro - Reprappers