Quotetechy Wow ! My search for CURA settings finally landed me on this forum. I have Geeetech i3 pro c dual extruder assembled just 3 days ago. i also got my first print which is not at all upto the mark. Can i use your CURA settings for my printer, will it work ? Your cura settings is for which printer ? Welcome to the forum. Did you follow a calibration guide to get the printer set up? Ifby JamesK - General
Oh my, that sure is an attractive approach, and solves the problem of needing to drill a hole through the sensor. You'd probably want to mount the electronics for that on the head so that you can run a single digital signal back to the motherboard instead of 3 pairs of analog wires.by JamesK - General
Which version of Cura are you using? When I pulled Cura-2.4.0-beta2 recently it still couldn't add dual extruders for custom printers.by JamesK - General
Great work guysby JamesK - General
Awesome! Now that is seriousby JamesK - Look what I made!
OK, yes, that looks very typical. Try working your way up the jerk and acceleration settings until you see an improvement or run into the other problems. You may need a more complex shape to be able to see the trade-off between corners and ringing - something with a hole in the side often works well to show ringing. Acceleration in the 6000 to 9000 region may be possible if the machine is rigid aby JamesK - Printing
Wow, what a pain. Good to know, many thanks for the explanation.by JamesK - Reprappers
Is there any background on why that fix (swap and rotate the lcd cables) is needed? It seems like a fairly major mess-up to require such a major hack.by JamesK - Reprappers
Can you get a closeup photo of the actual print? Bulging corners are fairly common, and it's usually just a result of having to slow down to change direction. The pressure in the nozzle lags behind the commanded change in speed, so as the head slows down for the corner you get an excess of plastic which causes a bulge. The most direct way to reducing the problem is to increase the XY accelerationby JamesK - Printing
QuoteMoriquendi I've said before, though it might have been in a PM to someone, that measuring the output of a piezo sensor is not as straight forward as it first appears. Could you elaborate a little on that? While the sensor is obviously going to interact with the input impedance of the measuring circuit, I would have thought that looking at the raw output on a scope was a pretty good first stby JamesK - General
Many of the organic solvents can be problematical if the fumes are allowed to build up. I wonder why MEK is more of a problem than, say, acetone which has a lower boiling point and higher vapour pressure. But yes, agreed, take care with any of these chemicals. They are flammable and potentially bad for your health if you breath too much of it.by JamesK - General
Nice problem to have. There are lots of ways you can reduce adhesion; reduce the extruder temperature for the first layer, print the first layer faster, increase the z0 height, reduce the first layer width, partly cover the print surface with a tape that doesn't adhere well to the first layer.by JamesK - Printing
Hi Terry, I'd recommend you start a new thread, attach the gcode and add some photos of failed prints and the Z axis setup. Run Slic3r stand-alone and look at the preview of the gcode. If that looks normal (which it almost certainly will), the problem is most likely a mechanical one (slipping connectors, binding bearings/screws) or a configuration issue (incorrect driver Vref, too high acceleratby JamesK - Printing
Not sure. I found one reference to mixtures of MEK and methylene chloride. It might be worth experimenting with an aggressive paint stripper.by JamesK - General
QuoteDjDemonD My micro delta design uses one piece petg top and bottom frame horizontals, with linear rails hammered into them, I couldn't even imagine the carnage trying that with PLA. That sounds like a neat design. I like the idea of a small delta - sounds like a really fun project and if some plans work out I may end up with some spare nema14 motors. I could watch delta kinematics for hoursby JamesK - General
Unbeatable? I must admit I like it a lot, that bit of flex is often really useful. But sometimes the extra stiffness and lightness of ABS is useful, and sometimes the higher print speeds of PLA is great. Nylon is even harder wearing than PETG for parts that get harsh treatment (but I hate the slow print speeds and the smell). I really must get around to trying PC at some point. I wish there was oby JamesK - General
One thing to bear in mind when cooling high temperature parts is that if the fan is sucking it's pulling hot air over the bearings, where as if blowing the bearings will have cold air flowing over them. Not an issue for the main board, but might be significant for the the heat break.by JamesK - General
Quoteunwohlpol )a few degrees hotend-temp more than recommended and your prints will break across the layers instead along the layers. I had this happen to me recently when I was trying to separate a joint that had too small a clearance. It's quite impressive looking at a solid cross section of plastic I'm printing my petg at 250C. Quote )source your PETG... the printability of PETG varies maby JamesK - General
I remember when you were first building it there was a concern about how failed prints might make a mess over the hot-end - the inverted spaghetti monster problem. How has that worked out, have you had any print failures to deal with?by JamesK - General
Possibly the PTC fuse has failed. My preference is to take the power directly from the PSU + terminal to the heatbed via an inline fuse (you can get blade fuseholders with 14ga wiring on ebay), and only route the -ve side through the ramps board for switching. That greatly reduces heating on the ramps pcb traces and avoids the PTC fuse which I've always felt was a poor choice.by JamesK - Printing
That's the baby brother of the ones I got which are rated 800W from 110V supplies or a little under 1kW on 240V. The reason I got so many is I plan to try the 24V float config eventually, although a 1600W 24V supply is slightly intimidating.by JamesK - Reprappers
Piezo for endstops is intriguing, but I'm not sure I fully understand the benefits. Is it just the expectation of higher accuracy/repeat-ability? Given the extra complexity and cost compared to a simple opto or mechanical endstop, I'm not sure that I need any higher accuracy for XY endstops - it's a non-critical measurement. Edit - Ah, but not for deltas, where all endstops are critical. Silly mby JamesK - General
Quotetray Mine required some minimum load to regulate reliably - the dirty power it delivered fried a stepper driver capacitor for me. Adding a ballast resistor across the supply quieted that down. However the fan was very noisy, so ended up moving away from these. Left with these 2 boat anchors as souvenirs. That's a surprise. I have five of these and so far I've seen no signs of problems or tby JamesK - Reprappers
I've seen that trick done with very thin slits, but using very small holes seems like a new and very flexible approach to the idea. It would be nice if some of the CAD packages could add features to make it easier to put micro-holes into a model, perhaps along a path with a given spacing. Slic3rs modifiers are very useful, but I still find it a pain to setup. You end up splitting the design procby JamesK - General
Perhaps not the ideal choice for you given your comments about not wanting to do any modifying, but since others will no doubt find this thread I thought I'd give a mention to the HP server power supplies. These are available used at very reasonable prices and are very high quality units that will provide rock solid power for typical printer usage. They are popular with the RC crowd for running hby JamesK - Reprappers
I couldn't get 3mm to extrude reliably with an un-geared NEMA 17, so I switched to a Wade style with I think 4.9 to 1 ratio. That works with NEMA 14 steppers, but they're running flat out to do so.by JamesK - General
Ok, that's good that they stepped up and accepted responsibility.by JamesK - Printing
target will show 0 until you turn a heater on. The high value for the actual temp indicates either a configuration error for the thermistor type, or a physical problem with the thermistor (a partial short circuit will produce erroneously high readings).by JamesK - General
I'm using black abs from Solutech and black petg from MG chemicals and so far no problems with either. Both are fairly reasonably priced here in Canada through Amazon.by JamesK - Printing